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Old 12-29-2010, 09:18 AM   #736
Jammin OP
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Thanks for the comments amigos.

I crossed back into Argentina and heading down Ruta 40. It´s beautiful up here in the northwest. Dropped the bike yesterday in a regular sandy hairpin. Entered at the wrong angle and then lost balance. It was at 4800m / close to 16000ft and had to remove everything from the panniers to lift the bike up.
Rough camping thru wine country here.

from Cafayete
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:39 PM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Thanks for the comments amigos.

I crossed back into Argentina and heading down Ruta 40. It´s beautiful up here in the northwest. Dropped the bike yesterday in a regular sandy hairpin. Entered at the wrong angle and then lost balance. It was at 4800m / close to 16000ft and had to remove everything from the panniers to lift the bike up.
Rough camping thru wine country here.

from Cafayete

Sorry to hear about the drop - hopefully the turn was sandy enough to cushion the bike on the way down.

So with the rough camping, how's the solar charger working out? Are you getting enough juice to download the pictures of the beautiful scenery we're all waiting to see? And I printed the curry recipe...plan to give it a shot, maybe on New Year's Eve.

Continued safe travels to you and thanks for taking us along.

- Dan

By the way, I just got back to Chicago from being in the south for 10 days - came home to about 10 inches of accumulated snow. Miss those Chicago winters?
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:52 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by Oddball View Post
After hearing about Jammin's Chicken Curry I am very glad you posted the recipe. Although I am sure I will not do it justice as the experience of having it made by you is what makes it priceless!
I say the same thing It needs to have my special ingredient - engine oil from under my finger nails

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Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
I have copied off and saved that recipe! Thanks!
Good eats.

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Originally Posted by MrToots View Post
Jay, thanks for posting the recipe. I'm thinking it will go great coming back in the house after snow blowing.
Ooh, I miss snow - I love skiing. A spicy curry would do good for warming up the soul.

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Jay,
Send me your direct e-mail address.
I'd like to forward you a copy of the latest publication to feature the Indian inventor and engineer, Somender Singh from Mysore.
A brilliant man who's motto is "We specialize in work few understand".
Thanks for the curry recipe and safe travels.
Trevor Heath
Seattle, Washington
Sounds good Trevor. PM sent.
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:18 PM   #739
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Happy New Year Jay
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:49 PM   #740
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Happy Holiday Jay
Thanks mate. I had a great Christmas at the Takha Takha campground in San Pedro. An adhoc Christmas Dinner was put together by travelers camping there: 2 Brazilian camper couples, a Colombia biker who I met on the Lagunas route, a Chilean biker who had great route info and a German bicyclista. It was a wonderful evening and a great way to celebrate riding the Lagunas route.

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Happy holidays Jay and ride safe


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Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Right on Jay! That ride was the highlight of my South America trip, for sure.

Feliz Navidad desde Buenos Aires.
Vince, as I was slowing chugging along the deep sand in a washboard rut, I had images of you blazing that route in 2 days! Loco. When I finally got to Laguna Colorado, I couldn't imagine how fast you were riding to get from Incahausi to Colorado in 1 day. I took 3
But wow am I glad I decided to do that route. Definitely the highlight of the ride so far. The most challenging, the most high, the most surreal landscapes and the most rewarding. Thanks for encouraging me to do it.

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I wasn't brave enough for that crossing, did the landcruiser tour instead!

Merry belated Christmas!
Hey Michael, yeah, I was doubting myself before whether it was smart to head into that route with the bike being the heaviest it's been (carrying a spare set of tires again) and going at it solo. I thought about joining one of the 4x4 tours to have them carry all my weight, but there was something about being totally independent on that route that appealed to me and I'm glad I gave it a go as I came out unscathed. I ruined my clutch in all that sand, but hey, a small price for an epic journey.

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Originally Posted by Syntroxis View Post
Hi Jay -
Great RR - I just finished it from the start to current. I've been lurking around ADV for some time and finally found the RRs. I'm hooked.
Thanks for the curry recipe. I can't wait to try it. Not many good Indian restaurants in College Station - gotta go to Houston.
You are really being an ambassador for the Green movement. Good luck with your studies.
I look forward to reading about your adventures as you go along.
Hey Snytroxis, welcome to the good stuff on ADV. You'll probably soon give up television and all other forms of distraction when you can dream free in the ride reports (I spent many good working hours and days surfing here before I left).
Ah College Station, I did my masters in engineering at Texas A&M and spent a year and half there. Yup, no good Indian eats there, Houston is the place or Austin. I was part of the sports car club there and we did auto cross racing at the abandoned airfield. I have fond memories of beating Mustang V8s and Camaros with my 92 BMW 325i (inline 6) with 190,000 miles on the engine and I won the novice championship.
Thanks, I'm trying my best to spread awareness of getting back in touch with nature. Cheers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider14 View Post
Sorry to hear about the drop - hopefully the turn was sandy enough to cushion the bike on the way down.
So with the rough camping, how's the solar charger working out? Are you getting enough juice to download the pictures of the beautiful scenery we're all waiting to see? And I printed the curry recipe...plan to give it a shot, maybe on New Year's Eve.
Continued safe travels to you and thanks for taking us along.
- Dan
By the way, I just got back to Chicago from being in the south for 10 days - came home to about 10 inches of accumulated snow. Miss those Chicago winters?
Hey Dan, the drop didn't hurt the bike one bit. It was more like a lay down. Oops.
Actually, I haven't needed the solar charger much. Ive been able to find electricity when I need it but it's just there as an option. What I really need is affordable satellite data coverage. Then you'll all be able to get pictures a lot more often. Haha. Yeah, Im so far behind in pictures and it's probably going to have to wait till I get back to Buenos Aires as I'm sort of in a hurry to get to the boat for Africa. Lots of things to juggle to make that happen.
Nope, dont miss Chicago winters one bit, all though I do miss a good winter in the moutanins...

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I made it to Mendoza today staying with a CSer and need to replace my clutch tomorrow. As I expected, I ruined my clutch in the sand on the Lagunas route. It was in 2 or 3 places where I couldn't muster the courage to make it up a sandy incline and had to resort to a heavy throttle hand, slipping the clutch. Oh well, the wear only came through in the last 2 days during high speed running. I have a spare set of fibre plates and will change them out.

Heading out for a little New Years celebration.

Thanks for following along and making 2010 an unforgettable year. Here's to an exciting 2011 as the trip heads to Africa.
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Trip Website: JamminGlobal.com
Current Ride Report: Global South | Past Trips: CDR '09, Alaska '08, Mexico '07 | YouTube Videos
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:09 PM   #741
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Sunset at Isla Incahausi, an old coral reef island studded with cactii in the middle of the Salar de Uyuni at 3,660 m (12,000 ft) in southwest Bolivia.
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Old 01-03-2011, 03:20 PM   #742
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Got Bandwidth?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnSfzxEVJ2w
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:11 PM   #743
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:46 AM   #744
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Wow! Is this journey for real?! This is not a movie being shot, is it? :)

The bestest of lucks to you, man!
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:44 PM   #745
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Yes! The MINI rawks I miss driving my cooper Come to think of it, I haven't driven a car since I've left....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovd View Post
Wow! Is this journey for real?! This is not a movie being shot, is it? :)
The bestest of lucks to you, man!
Well, there's a movie being shot in my head and I am filming a lot of it with the GoPro, but it's going to take forever for those videos to get posted
Thanks man, I'll take all the lucks I can get. Cheers.

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Been camping my way down Ruta 40 from Mendoza south. It got a bit boring in places, with super straight roads, but the broad valleys were nice to just cruise thru. Rode thru some crazy storms, even got hailed on once at just 6000 ft. I've entered the Lakes District where it gets beautiful again but all the Argentines also know that so it's very touristy now but the mountains and deep lakes make up for that. Staying in the small chocolate box town of Villa La Angostura, just north of Bariloche.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:48 PM   #746
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Talking

Some photos from the past 2 weeks:


Soaking at the agua termales (hot springs) at Polques at sunset, situated at 4,400 m (14,400 ft). No one else was around and I enjoyed the transition from day to night while letting my weary body relax in the hot water. It was cold with strong winds blowing and that's why I stayed submerged the whole time. A beautiful end to the five day ride from Salar de Uyuni across the Lagunas to San Pedro de Atacama.


Heading down Ruta 40 (similar to the old Route 66 in the US) down the whole length of Argentina. This is in the northwest near Salta. The road changes faces often and goes from scenic mountain dirt road to highway slab, but it's all good.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:41 PM   #747
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Brazil, Part 9: Finding paradise in Picinguaba

October 20 - 23, 2010

With sanDRina feeling super fresh after all the maintenance work in São Paulo, I headed down to the coast and worked my way up to Rio. I contacted Talia through CouchSurfing in the small fishing village of Picinguaba, about halfway to Rio and close to Paraty and spent a few idyllic days in this tranquil slice of paradise.


Taking the highways down from the plateau that São Paulo sits on. Southern Brazil is quite hilly and it makes the highway riding fun.


I headed down to the coast thru Mogi das Cruzes, avoiding the big port city of Santos.


The coast of southeastern Brazil is flanked by the Serra do Mar (mountains by the sea) and are covered by what's left of the Mata Atlântica (Atlantic Rainforest). Taking a break with a view of these waterfalls.


Riding the beautiful coastal highway of BR-101, the Translitorânea, which traverses almost the entire coast of Brazil covering about 4,600 kms (2,875 mi). As I saw in the northern states, it's not exciting everywhere, but this stretch from Santos to Rio is supposed to be the best riding. This is near the city of São Sebastião with views of two islands: As Ilhas and Ilha das Couves.


Ahh, to smell the ocean breeze again. A welcome change from the concrete of the past few weeks.


The Serra do Mar is protected via numerous state parks as Brazil's great economic progress is not treading so lightly on its precious natural resources. They've tried to encourage the rainforest to grow once more in places where deforestation has taken place, but it's not so easy with delicate systems like rainforests. The road was constantly changing elevation, twisting up a hill and dropping down...


...to reveal lots of small seaside communities hidden in the numerous coves along the littoral.


A panoramic view of one of many bays along the route.
Click here to see the high resolution version.


Now, that's what you call a coastal highway. The waves almost crashing right onto the pavement.


The twisties were sublime. Traffic wasn't so intense and I captured lots of good video.


North of Ubatuba, taking in the view of the peninsula across the bay that the fishing village of Picinguaba lies on.


I turned off the highway down a small single lane road snaking down to the water and arrived in the idyllic fishing hamlet of Picinguaba.


I contacted Talia through CouchSurfing but she was busy hosting some cyclists from Uruguay and passed me on to her friend here, Carol, who's from Quebec and is spending a few months cycling around Brazil. She discovered Picinguaba a few weeks back and decided to stay here for a while. She's preparing a seafood soup here for dinner.


Carol and Talia having some vegetable fried rice that I prepared for lunch the next day.


The Uruguayan cyclists preparing to leave. They were traveling for a few months north up Brazil. His trailer is supported by one wheel in the back and thus leans to the ground when it's stopped. He convinced us he wasn't overloaded (but I'm one to talk).


Views of Picinguaba. The name refers to the indigenous people that used to live along the coast before the Portuguese arrived in the 16th century.


Talia chatting with one of the locals as we walked around the community. The Mata Atlântica is lush here and the humidity shows on the walls of the houses.


The steps leading up to Carol's house. The village is quite hilly as the Serra do Mar spills onto the beach.


A small wooden bridge leading to a residence.


The road ends at the beach and besides this little section where most of the cars were parked, it's a walking community as everything is nearby.


The end of the road into the village as the beach expands ahead.


A phone booth that wasn't used much as most people come here to get away from it all.


I spent my afternoons at this little bar with absorbing views of the bay, freeing up my mind to write some thoughts down in my journal.


Views from the bar of Pousada Picinguaba, an exclusive boutique hotel and the biggest business in this cove. Talia moved here from São Paulo to work at the pousada, along with most of the other young adults here.


A panoramic view of the bay at Picinguaba, shot with Carol's camera after I showed her how to use the stitch-assist feature. It's dotted with the odd sailboat or two and fishing boats of the Caiçara people, the traditional inhabitants of the southeastern coast who are a mix of people from indigenous tribes, Portuguese settlers and African slaves. Fishing as the primary activity has a deep sense of heritage among them and is still strong in this community.
Click here to see the high resolution version.


A sailboat framed by the thatched roof of a beach bar.


That afternoon, I went for a walk with Carol thru the surrounding hills.


Getting a good view of a low tide beach.


Looking deep into the Mata Atlântica covered over in overcast clouds.


Driftwood along the beach.


The tranquil waters lapping in a cove.


The serenity of the place hit a positive nerve within. The calm waters surrounded by green-carpeted hills running into the ocean and the overcast weather hit a certain harmonious tone that left a lasting impression.


Going for a walk around the village after dinner.


And running into these police officers who were on a fishing trip in this dune buggy.


The next morning, breakfast at Talia's place of oatmeal, homemade yogurt and other goodies. Talia bubbles with positive energy and attracts all the children into her open home.


Makes for a nice family portrait, eh?


But the little one thought I looked better with these nice goldilocks. What do you say, baldy or blondy?


Matheus bringing Talia some fresh fish from this morning's catch.


Matheus' dog faithfully follows him all around the village and found a way to jump onto this wall from the neighboring house to see what his master was up to.


After breakfast, we hung out at the beach and Carol was probing more about how this community was surviving with the young adults wanting to run off to the big cities.


Birds resting on the rocks by the waters in Picinguaba Bay.


Vaigenio, a close friend of Talia's, did some yoga as he relished the surroundings of his paradisaical beach community.


I could get used to this place and felt very comfortable in my few days here and vowed to return on my way south after Rio.


Around lunch time, another friend stopped by to clean and prep the fish, which I think was some snapper.


He cut some fillets and others for sashimi (raw fish), which they enjoy quite a bit here, but it requires skill to know exactly how to slice the fish for sashimi. A wrong cut and it spoils the taste.


Enjoying fresh sashimi (related to sushi but served without rice), minutes after it was cut from the fish and hours after it was caught from the sea. Talk about fresh. A bit of soy sauce and it was heavenly (I don't do wasabi, not my kind of spice).


The neighbors were cutting up some fresh sugarcane stalks (the youngins learning the ways)...


...and handed over a jug of fresh caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). This is where brown sugar comes from and of course white sugar, after they've bleached all the natural color from it. Interestingly, crystallizing sugar from sugarcane was discovered in India and traveled with Columbus and the Portuguese to the new world with Brazil now being the largest producer of sugar in the world. And in return, the Portuguese brought the red chillies of South America to India, greatly enhancing the variety of spicy food on the subcontinent (before that, we only had black pepper as our strongest spice).


Some of the fish from earlier was baked with some veggies. Served over a bowl of rice. My palate was enjoying all the fresh food.


That evening, with Talia and Vaigenio, I went into town (nearby Ubatuba) in an hour long bus route that stopped at all the small beach communities along the way.


We found a band playing forró music and danced into the wee hours. Talia patiently taught me the steps and I caught on after a while. It's a dance from the northeastern part of Brazil, but has caught on around the country. Its basic steps are two steps to the left and then two to the right and repeat with all sort of variations. The beat is fast but once you get on it, it becomes quite fun. The music is produced with just three instruments: an accordion, a zabumba bass drum and a metal triangle that keeps the pace.

I had a really good time in these four days at Picinguaba and met lots of positive energies emanating from the location and the human souls. I was looking for a place like this as I knew it existed and all thanks to CouchSurfing as it has the power to draw the traveler to small, out of the way locations that would otherwise be passed up. I had to come back.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:31 AM   #748
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Love the Report and the Curry

Great Report. I appreciate the attention to the people, places and food.

By the way great curry recipe. I see a cook book based on this adventure.
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:42 AM   #749
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Great report and awesome pics as always. Thanks for taking us along. As many have said you are an inspiration (Maybe I will take my DR for a 200+ mile trip this coming season.) Too much snow here today.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:28 AM   #750
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Thanks for the comments. Motoring down the Carretera Austral in southern Chile. And wow is it beautiful here or what. The scenery is fantastic. Green mountain peaks capped with snow and ice and long valleys with crystal clear lakes. The camping is wonderful.
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