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Old 03-10-2010, 12:32 PM   #31
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s.c.m.
Never heard of Pine Sol, can anybody please tell me what it is?
http://www.pinesol.com/

I'm not trying to sound snarky here, but typing "Pine Sol" into a search engine is a lot easier than posting a question here.

- Mark
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:00 PM   #32
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Hey Hondo, just found this thread. Great documentation!

I know you said in another thread that you'll be re-using the pistons and rings but what about the pin clips?
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:49 PM   #33
Yarddog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
http://www.pinesol.com/

I'm not trying to sound snarky here, but typing "Pine Sol" into a search engine is a lot easier than posting a question here.

- Mark
For me, I don't think you're snarky at all...I sometimes wonder why folks don't use the tools available to them to get information that they need, or answer questions...In some forums I have participated in, folks get so weary of answering the same ol' same ol' that asking a question like this would result in a good proper flame job!!!
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:26 PM   #34
BrianK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo

I also scraped uff the carbon "ridge at the top of the cylinder using a bunch of new razor blades. Once the carbon was removed there was no ridge at all -
Why'd you do that? Conventional wisdom is NOT to touch that ridge. But you certainly sound like you know what you're doing, so I'm curious. Thanks.
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK
Why'd you do that? Conventional wisdom is NOT to touch that ridge. But you certainly sound like you know what you're doing, so I'm curious. Thanks.
I can't see any reason not to knock that ridge out of there; OTOH, since you install the cylinders on this engine over the pistons rather than inserting the pistons from the top, I can't see any reason it would hurt to leave it alone. I'm not sure I'd recommend using a steel razor blade though - seems like this would be an opportunity to nick up the softer cylinder walls.

Actually, wasn't one of the original objectives to cure an oil-burning problem? On a 50K engine tha's burning oil, I'd re-ring and then give it a light hone which should take care of the ridge.

There's always lots of unsolicited opinions in engine rebuild threads. To the OP, feel free to ignore the crap from the peanut gallery - you look like you know what you're doing.

- Mark
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:26 PM   #36
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Supposedly, removing the ridge will increase oil consumption. Necessary if the piston must be inserted from the top; avoidable otherwise.

Whether this is true or not, I don't know. It's what I've heard.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK
Why'd you do that? Conventional wisdom is NOT to touch that ridge. But you certainly sound like you know what you're doing, so I'm curious. Thanks.
I don't like the idea of leaving any carbon inside the cylinder. It came off very easily, and has nothing to do with compression at all.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:01 PM   #38
Berck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianK
Supposedly, removing the ridge will increase oil consumption.
Not a motorcycle, but when I replaced a head gasket on my '94 Mazda Miata, I cleaned all the carbon off the cylinder walls and top of the piston. At the time, it didn't use any oil. Now it uses about quart every 1,000 miles...
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:02 PM   #39
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I agree with Hondo. It really needs to be cleaned up as much as possible in order to keep carbon bits from breaking off in the cylinders. DAMHIK

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Old 03-10-2010, 08:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
I can't see any reason not to knock that ridge out of there; OTOH, since you install the cylinders on this engine over the pistons rather than inserting the pistons from the top, I can't see any reason it would hurt to leave it alone. I'm not sure I'd recommend using a steel razor blade though - seems like this would be an opportunity to nick up the softer cylinder walls.

Actually, wasn't one of the original objectives to cure an oil-burning problem? On a 50K engine tha's burning oil, I'd re-ring and then give it a light hone which should take care of the ridge.

There's always lots of unsolicited opinions in engine rebuild threads. To the OP, feel free to ignore the crap from the peanut gallery - you look like you know what you're doing.

- Mark
Ok guys, I'm not sure if I stated this earlier, but I'll say it again-

New replacement pistons and rings are not available from Honda- only Wiseco, and they are about $600.

The cylinders, pistons, and rings all spec out fine as far as wear goes- there is no need to replace anything.

The oil burning is caused by the old, hard, worn out, 27 year old valve stem seals. The only way to get to them is to pull the head.

And if you pull the head, you should replace the base gasket between the block and the cylinder assy, or it will leak oil (probably).

I hope that answers some questions.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:07 PM   #41
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REFERENCE THIS PICTURE -



See the area above the top ring land? That is the area at the top of the cylinder that had the carbon build up. This area in the cylinder is never reached by the rings and should have no effect on compression or oil usage/blowby.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:10 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi
I guess the Pine Sol method has not made its way to the DOHC "F" site, or I've missed it.

When I cleaned the carbs on my 900 I had to replace the rubber bowl gaskets, the o-rings and washers under the pilot screws, and some of the o-rimgs between the carbs (not fun, test the carbs before you put them back in!). Just some food for thought. Great job on the 1000.

I'm curious to see what condition your cam chain tensioner is in, seems to be a weak point on these. Do you plan to drop the oil pan and clean out the pickup screen?
I was happily surprised to see that the tensioner looks to be in fine shape.

Not sure if I will be doing the oil pan-
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:42 PM   #43
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Day 8

Today I started out by buying an engine stand and then making the adapters/hardware necessary for it to work with the CB1000C engine.

Why you ask?

It will make cleaning/painting/assembling the engine that much easier.

I bought some 1/2 inch pipe, 3/8" threaded rod, washers and nuts and cut them down to fit.

The length of the adapter pipes is as follows -

Upper Front Mount - 6 "

Lower Front Mount - 6 1/2"

Upper Rear Mount - 7 1/2"

Lower Rear Mount - 8"

I found that this allowed me ample room to clean and paint the stand side of the engine.

Some pics -





After I got it mounted I spent a few hours cleaning it up.

I also finshed cleaning the pistons.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:08 PM   #44
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Day 9

Rotated the engine over -



Pulled the oil pan -



The pan had some stuff in it -



And screen looked ok -



I put the oil pan and oil pickup screen in the Pine Sol vat to soak overnight.

Then I took a break from the shop and went to the dealer to order a few mor parts.

When I got back I decided to do something about the valve cover. It had corrosion on it and looked like hell. I would have preferred to chrome it or have it polished, but I decided to go ahead and paint it instead.

I don't have a sandblasting cabinet, but I can make one up without too much trouble -



Here it is before I started blasting -



and after blasting -



I cleaned it with brake cleaner and then shot 3 light coats of silver Duplicolor 500 degree engine enamal. It came out very nice -



After that I cleaned the head with brake cleaner, taped it up, and painted it with 500 degree black Duplicolor engine enamel. (sorry, no pics of that).

Then I went back to the engine and cleaned it some more, and began masking it off for paint.

I put a coat on before I called it a day -







Tomorrow I'll be painting the cylinder , the starter cover, the oil pan and maybe put one more coat on the engine.

I'm sure I'll find other things to do as well...
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:53 AM   #45
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Here's a blasting suggestion for ya...in addition to having the equipment for agressive blasting that will remove paint and gork, AND give you a good surface to paint on, invest in a soda blaster...it's not as agressive, nor is it as invasive as the aluminum oxide or silica media...it will remove paint and gork, but it won't hurt your gaskets and rubber, and it breaks down easily if you spray it off with water...And here's the kicker for ya, OP...it's environmentally friendly!!!

I've used it to blast heads, cylinders, engines that have been sealed off and/or still together, and it won't eat your aluminum like aluminum oxide et all will...

As far as a blasting cabinet goes, just get a blasting hood and wear coveralls...and blast somewhere that is kinda away from things...I went out and bought one of those inexpensive Harbor Freight cabinets, and it's really been more of a pain in the ass than it should have been...It's hard to see inside of it, the blaster that came with it is junk, I rigged a Sears blaster to work with it, been one problem after another, to be honest...
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