ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-21-2010, 06:22 PM   #61
fishkens
Further...
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 5,147
Wowza. So far you've done a few things that I've done or had on my list for a long time (relocated oil cooler with earles fittings, Acerbis nylon tank, new headlight, gauges, etc.) and about a million things I never dreamed of. I'm fascinated.

Thanks for the write up.
__________________
Forging ahead, down a false trail.
fishkens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2010, 04:33 PM   #62
AirheadGS
lost in suburbia
 
AirheadGS's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Lakewood,CO USA
Oddometer: 10
Nice work! Thanks for posting the dimensions for the shim plate. You might want to put in a night mode on the LEDs now. I changed out all my bulbs to LEDs and the high beam turned out to be too bright for night, and I still have not fixed it.
AirheadGS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2010, 10:14 AM   #63
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
Trans Vent

The Trail Tech computer I'll use has its own reed switch speed sensor, so I won't need the trans speedo cable. I also wanted to arrange a trans vent hose to both avoid the OE hollow trans bolt and to have the ability to put the hose into the air box to draw moisture out of the trans when water gets in there from a river crossing or whatever.

I made up this trans vent plug from aluminum. Also shown is the stock trans plug that attaches the speedo cable.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/24-trans-vent/trans-vent-parts.jpg

This is an updated trans vent drawing. I haven't yet made one to verify the updates, but I think it should be OK.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/24-trans-vent/trans-vent-drawing.jpg

I measured the trans hole as 19.0 mm. The design uses a 1/8 NPT hose barb fitting for the outlet, but to keep the plug's profile low I decided to turn the threads of the hose fitting down and just epoxy the fitting into the plug. I put a metric 16 x 2.0 o-ring on the bottom of the plug to keep oil from seeping up and out of the fastening bolt and the top of the plug.

O-rings seal by being squeezed between mating parts, the terms 'squeeze' or 'crush' are generally used here, and is expressed as a percentage of the o-ring cross-section. Generally, for a static cylinder plug like this a crush of around 20%+ is recommended.

The machined edges of the trans, both at the hole's opening and at the edge formed by the cross drilling of the fastening bolt were sharp and made it difficult to install the plug without cutting the o-ring at 20%, so I reduced the crush to about 17% by cutting the groove deeper. I also put a chamfer on the trans opening, but it was still a careful operation to install the greased plug.

Here's the assembled plug.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/24-trans-vent/trans-vent.jpg

And the plug installed in the trans.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/24-trans-vent/trans-vent-installed.jpg

-x3300
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2010, 11:08 AM   #64
nella
Gnarly Adventurer
 
nella's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Oddometer: 403
Very nice work!


Scott
__________________
Scott
nella is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 12:54 AM   #65
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
Front Wheel Build

There have been a few glimpses in past posts that there is just a bare hub where the front wheel should be. Things finally came together to get that taken care of.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/wheel-missing.jpg

I put in an order and this box arrived.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/rim-box.jpg

Inside was a shiny new 21" tubeless rim.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/new-rim.jpg

Older rims were marked Akrnot, Spain, but this is marked Behr, Germany. The markings are sand blasted on.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/rim-detail.jpg

I wanted to make up something distinctive and decided to try some powder coat. A little research told me that polyurethane powder would be well suited for wheels, and I found this 'Black Cat' polyurethane powder from Caswell Plating. I also got a roll of high-temp powder coat masking tape from them.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/powder.jpg

My first real attempt at powder coating. I was really happy with the result. I masked off the bearing bores to keep the coating out and applied two heavy coats.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/hub.jpg

I made up this bearing driver to install the wheel bearings in the hub.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/bearing-driver.jpg

To prepare the rim for coating I needed to sand blast the polished finish off the new rim. It was a hard thing to bring myself to do considering the time I have spent polishing GS rims, but once I got the rim in the sandblaster and pulled the trigger I went at it with determination. The blasted rim.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/rim-blasted.jpg

I sent out inquiries for R100GS spokes to both Buchanan's Spoke & Rim and The Devon Rim Company. I received a very queer reply from Buchanan's recommending spokes threaded on both ends and 80 nipples per wheel.

Doug Richardson of Devon Rim seemed to understand what I needed and even with shipping from the UK and a currency exchange fee gave me a better quote than Buchanan's. The only difficulty I had with Devon Rim was their inability to do credit card sales. I need to send them a personal check, which I found a bit out of date. All went well though, and these polished stainless spokes arrived in a small heavy package.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/spokes.jpg

The powder coat oven I have access to is not big enough to fit a 21" front rim, so I needed to make up some way to heat the rim to 390 degrees Fahrenheit and hold that temperature for 15 minutes. My solution was to heat the rim with two propane torches while I spun it on a wheel stand. Here's my setup.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/rim-cure-setup.jpg

I found a discarded bead frame rail in a dumpster that I used for the stand. I just did a very quick fab job cutting the sections and welded them together. I laced four spokes into the wheel, just enough to support the rim as I turned it gently. The torches are propped in position by large c-clamps.

I needed to keep both torches at full to get the rim to come up to temperature. I think three torches would work better.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/curring.jpg

I used this infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight to monitor the rim temperature.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/temp-check.jpg

Anyway, after two coats and lots of spinning I was really surprised at what came out.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/wheel-coated.jpg

After getting the rim coated I had everything needed to start the wheel build. I used copper based anti-seize on the spoke threads and the hub nipple bores.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/wheel-parts.jpg

Lacing the wheel was pretty straight forward. Since the brake caliper is mounted on the left I laced the hub with the hub markings on the right so the markings would be visible as on the original wheel.

To get a close to equal initial spoke length I used this M3 screw with nuts as a depth gauge through the top of the nipple. Also shown here are some grub screws. I ended up not using these. I'll see how things work out without them.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/depth-gauge.jpg

To keep track of where I was I put these marks on the wheel. The tape on the rim with the red circle marks the axial high point. The blue was to mark the rim weld.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/marks.jpg

Here are the tools I used to build the wheel. A dial indicator, a torque wrench, masking tape and markers.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/tools.jpg

Here's how I setup the dial indicator. It was a little tiring to bend over to read it though. I put a little grease on the rim to lubricate where the dial indicator plunger slid on the rim. I didn't want to put the indicator on the outside of the rim for fear of scratching that finish.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/indicator.jpg

After I got the radial and axial run-out in control I set the dish with this straight edge.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/dish.jpg

In the end I had a radial run-out of 0.7 mm and an axial run-out of 0.4 mm. The BMW service manual gives a factory tolerance of 1.0 mm and a service limit of 1.3 mm for both.

Here's the finished wheel with a TKC-80 mounted.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/25-front-wheel-build/wheel-installed.jpg

I can now finally after many months roll the bike around.

-x3300
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 01:48 AM   #66
Padmei
enamoured
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Nelson New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,569
Far out nice rims.
Padmei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 02:41 AM   #67
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,132
Nicely done.
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 06:11 AM   #68
Gimmeslack
furthur
 
Gimmeslack's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Oddometer: 2,466
This is frikkin' amazing. Brilliant hillbilly engineering!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by x3300



The powder coat oven I have access to is not big enough to fit a 21" front rim, so I needed to make up some way to heat the rim to 390 degrees Fahrenheit and hold that temperature for 15 minutes. My solution was to heat the rim with two propane torches while I spun it on a wheel stand. Here's my setup.



I found a discarded bead frame rail in a dumpster that I used for the stand. I just did a very quick fab job cutting the sections and welded them together. I laced four spokes into the wheel, just enough to support the rim as I turned it gently. The torches are propped in position by large c-clamps.

I needed to keep both torches at full to get the rim to come up to temperature. I think three torches would work better.



I used this infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight to monitor the rim temperature.



Anyway, after two coats and lots of spinning I was really surprised at what came out.







-x3300
__________________

"If you hold a cat by the tail, you learn things you cannot learn any other way."

Twain
Gimmeslack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 08:24 AM   #69
rediRrakaD
Whoopdie do
 
rediRrakaD's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Deep in the Redwoods near the Pacific
Oddometer: 722
Bravo!!!

Once again a creative solution .
Thanks for posting.
S.
__________________
"Death in the pursuit of happiness is triumphant!"
rediRrakaD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 11:17 AM   #70
datchew
Don't buy from Brad
 
datchew's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Remember the Alamo!
Oddometer: 7,409
black rims and TKC-80's.

I'm seeing a trend developing here.
Real nice work so far. I'm enjoying watching.
datchew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2010, 07:43 PM   #71
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,658
wish I had known you needed a rim as I could have sold you a good used one for half of BMW price. To late as I sent the rim and hub to have a tube rim laced to a GS front hub.
__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2010, 12:19 PM   #72
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
Brake Line

I needed to make up a long brake line that routes around the big Trail Tech race lamp.

The R1200RT caliper I'm using had a broken off bleeder, so I figured it would be a good time to fix it. I bought a new bleeder and removed the broken stub with a bolt extractor. I heated the caliper around the bleeder with a torch to expand the aluminum.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/extractor.jpg

I got a few different kinds of hose to make up the brake line. Also shown is the bulk braided brake hose.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/hose.jpg

I used Earl's Speed Flex -3 hose and Speed Seal hose ends to makeup the line. Details of its use have been covered elsewhere. To get some rigidity in the run between the mount at the top of the fork protector and the line guide I used some stiff plastic hose over the brake line.

When the fork compressed a sharp bend was forming at the upper hose end. I was worried that over time the brake hose Teflon liner may fail here due to fatigue so I used some flexible hose over the brake hose there to reduce the the stress. I used some heat shrink tubing to seal the joints and hold things together. The banjo bolts are just OE BMW (M10x1.0x18).

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/finished-line.jpg

The CRF has a plastic brake line guide that mounts close to the center of the lower triple clamp. It was not possible to use this with the Trail Tech Race Lamp so I made up a guide from aluminum that mounts to the fork upper with a large hose clamp. For a trim look I used a European spec clamp that has the thinner band width.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/guide.jpg

Here's how the guide mounts to the fork. I made the hole big enough to slide a hose end through, but since there's no split in the guide I'll need to remove a hose end from either the master cylinder or the caliper to get the guide off the line.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/guide-installed.jpg

After getting the line on and the system bled I found that two of the caliper pistons were sticky, so I took the caliper apart to clean it up and found some build up on those pistons. The seals didn't show any wear so I didn't replace them.

This caliper uses internal dust seals, as apposed to the external seal of the OE R100GS caliper. I think this internal seal design would be effected by dirt riding more than the external seal design.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/caliper.jpg

This photo shows the seal grooves of the caliper body. The inner groves are for the pressure seals, and the outer for the dust seals.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/grooves.jpg

After the cleanup the caliper worked better. Heres a view of the lower line routing.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/26-brake-line/done.jpg

-x3300
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2010, 11:34 PM   #73
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
Monolever Arm

I saw this R100RT monolever arm up for sale so I figured I'd see what could be done with it.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/new-arm.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/arm-inside.jpg

Here are a few shots that compare the parlever arm to the monolever.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/compare-arm.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/compare-brake-face.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/compare-brake-side.jpg

The GS wheel fitted to the monolever arm. There's about a 20 mm gap betwen the hub and the final drive.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/wheel-offset.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/gripster-clearance.jpg

I did some measurements to get an idea of wheel travel limits with the monolever arm. In both the topped-out and bottomed-out case the limiting factor was the u-joint rubbing on the inside of the swingarm.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/topped-out.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/half.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/bottomed-out.jpg

To get the drive shaft out of the swingarm I made up this spring compressor. The threaded parts extra long so it will work with longer swingarms.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/compressor.jpg

Here's the compressor in action.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/compressing.jpg

The u-joint was going bad so I'll need to replace it. I pressed the bearing caps out with this press, but I think just the screw of a bench vise would give enough force.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/pressing.jpg

Once the bearing cap was pressed out as much as it could be I grabbed the end of it with a bench vise and hammered the yoke off it.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/joint-removal.jpg

The disassembled arm and shaft.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/mono-parts.jpg

I did this mock-up to see where things could go.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/27-monolever-arm/lt-mockup.jpg

-x3300
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2010, 12:37 AM   #74
fishkens
Further...
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 5,147
Neato. Looking forward to the next update.

Thanks.
__________________
Forging ahead, down a false trail.
fishkens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2010, 09:55 AM   #75
rediRrakaD
Whoopdie do
 
rediRrakaD's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Deep in the Redwoods near the Pacific
Oddometer: 722
X303,

Heading in this direction???
__________________
"Death in the pursuit of happiness is triumphant!"
rediRrakaD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014