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Old 10-21-2014, 01:43 PM   #1
bigalsmith101 OP
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Oddometer: 891
Electrical gremlin...

Okay, so I tore down my 1974 Suzuki TC100 to the frame, powder coated it, installed a new piston, painted the frame and tank, and reassembled it. Link to the process here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1012106

Since reassembly, the rear tail/brake light won't light up and the dash gauges don't work.
Prior to the restore, the tail light operated just fine. It worked when the brake was applied.
The High Beam dash light worked. Now, neither of them work. Brake light doesn't turn on, high beam indicator light doesn't turn on.

This bike is a 6volt system.

During inspection, I found that the wire coming from the magneto had broken it's connection to the resistor. I reconnected the wire. (See wiring diagram below)

I found that the fuse to the battery had blown, and thus replaced it. (See diagram) I "ASSUMED" that the fuse blew due to the broken resistor wire, but can't be sure.

Neither correction solved my problem.

Next I tested the power output of the battery when isolated (i.e. removed from bike). Output was 4 volts. Battery is shot. Bought new one.

Next I tested the power from the BIKE going to the battery at the battery connection. Result was 0.8 volts (Less than one volt)

I tested voltage coming out of the resistor and got the same result. 0.8volts.
With bike running, I tested power to the rear brake light and got 0.8volts.
Next step is to test the rectifier for resistance and continuity.
Then, install new and fully charged battery as the battery also serves as the regulator.

I've checked the grounds as best I can, and can't seem to find an issue. There are only two wires grounded to the frame and both are very clean grounds.

Where am I going wrong here?

What else should I test?

Here's the wiring diagram straight from the vintage 1974 Owners manual.
[IMG][/IMG]

bigalsmith101 screwed with this post 10-21-2014 at 01:53 PM
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:03 PM   #2
bigalsmith101 OP
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Tested Rectifier and it tested good

I connected the positive lead of my multimeter to the positive terminal of the rectifier and it read very low resistance.

I reversed the connection and it read high resistance.

Exactly what the owners manual says it should read/do.
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:00 PM   #3
bigalsmith101 OP
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Just installed brand new battery and fuse.

I fully charged my brand new 6volt battery and installed it in the bike with a new 15amp fuse.

Immediately upon connecting the battery terminals the fuse blew.

Fuses are cheap, so I replaced the fuse to duplicate the problem a second time. New fuse in, battery connected and immediately the fuse blew again.

Is this because I have a bad ground connection somewhere in the system? What's my problem?

I can connect two wires, test continuity and resistance, and wire things together, but diagnosing the cause of a problem is not my best trait.

Where have I gone wrong?

--Alex
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Old 10-22-2014, 12:25 AM   #4
Andyinhilo
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Fuse blowing = short circuit, look for a pinched wire or a mis-connection. Replace the fuse with a 6v bulb. It will burn as long as the short exists, so you can test it without having to continually replace fuses. Once the bulb is on, start unplugging/disconnecting wires. When you dte to the offending one, the light will go out.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:58 AM   #5
bigalsmith101 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
Fuse blowing = short circuit, look for a pinched wire or a mis-connection. Replace the fuse with a 6v bulb. It will burn as long as the short exists, so you can test it without having to continually replace fuses. Once the bulb is on, start unplugging/disconnecting wires. When you dte to the offending one, the light will go out.
I wish I had thought of/heard of the trick of using the 6v bulb in place of the fuse before I started my diagnostics.

I was reading a half million other treads and came upon the idea of disconnecting all of the wires/plugs, and then plugging them in one at a time.

This lead me to find that my rectifier was shorted out, but not before burning through 2 of the 5pack of 15am fuses... What the hell? I tested it and it tested fine...

I took it off the bike completely, retested it and again it tested well. So rather than installing it back on the bike, I simply plugged it back into the bike and low and behold, the fuse didn't blow. It turns out that I had incorrectly installed the rectifier the with reassembling the bike which led to it grounding out on the frame and creating the short circuit thus blowing the fuse.

During the diagnostic check up however, simply due to the fuse blowing I found the following issues wrong with the bike.

#1. The input wire from the magneto to the resistor was broken. So I replaced it.

#2. A red power wire from the head light wiring harness was broken at the 6 prong connection pin/plug where it plugs into the main harness. I pulled it out, replaced the pin, and repaired the plug.

#3. The rear tail light bulb running light filament was burned out. Only the brake light functioned. Replaced the bulb.

#4. The battery was totally shot. Bought new one and replaced it.

#5. Found turn signal wires at harness that have been chopped. (Bike is 40 years old, turn signals not required). Spliced butt connectors onto them for future turn signal installation.

And finally, I learned how to test the resistor and the rectifier, which I haven't done before. SAWEET.

So, it runs like a champ again, and I have full lighting capacity. (Minus the turn signals). At least people can see me at night now!
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