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Old 03-16-2010, 11:57 AM   #1
jamesdemien OP
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X-Challenge Front Spring and Fork Oil Change

Taylor (Flo) and I changed the fork springs out on the XChallenge with acool new Hyperpro set. We also changed the fork oil so this is going to be a how-to/how-did post.

We gathered all of our tools and headed to the my basement parking garage. On the way we had to make a stop at Sears to pick up some new wrenches. Here’s a list of useful/required tools.
  1. 19mm Combination Wrench
  2. 20mm Combination Wrench
  3. 26mm Socket or Axle wrench
  4. 6mm Hex Driver
  5. Large Flathead Screwdriver
  6. 10mm Socket
  7. 13mm Socket
  8. MityVac (optional)
  9. Ruler with mm
  10. 5 Gallon bucket
  11. Bike Jack or Milk Crate with Straps
Step one:
Loosen and remove the front wheel axel bolt with your 26mm socket. Once, that’s off get our your 10mm socket and remove the pinch bolts. Grab the front wheel and tap the axle out with a rubber mallet or the palm of your hand. Put the wheel in a safe place and continue to use the 10mm socket to remove the plastic stone guards. Get your 13mm socket out and remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the left fork leg. Once this is off zip tie it up and out of the way to avoid stressing the banjo fitting keeping your brake fluid in.

Step two:
Loosen the top triple clamp with your 6mm hex driver. This will allow you to loosen the caps with your 19mm wrench. If all you have are sockets you’ll have to take the bars off and zip tie them out of the way. Just loosen the fork caps while the lower triple clamp holds them vice like. You don’t want to take them all the way off until you have them out of the bike and near your bucket.

Now’s a good time to remove the little reflectors and any inspection stickers. These items make it hard to yank the fork tubs down and out.

Loosen all 8 triple clamp bolts with your 6mm hex. Using your large screwdriver, you may want to put some tape on the tip if you’re not into marring finishes, gently pry the triple clamp open while pulling the fork tubes out from below. They’re actually easy to get out.

Step three:
Clean the forks to keep dirt and debris out when you pull the caps. Get you’re 5 gallon bucket ready and use you’re 19mm wrench to spin the caps off. Dump as much oil as possible into the bucket. The next part is where a buddy comes in handy. Pull the springs down with a little brute force and slide the 20mm open end onto the blue fitting below the caps. With the 19mm on top remove the fork caps freeing up the springs. Put the fork caps someplace safe. Transfer the springs directly into the bucket...they drip a lot of oil. Now, dump the forks and pump them several times to get all the oil out of the cartridge. You’re probably going to dump a 2 inch plastic spacer out while you’re doing this. Put it back in and try to keep things from falling out. Once you have all the old oil out stand the fork in a safe place and remove the cap and spring from the other fork.

Now is a good time to clean your fork seals.

Step four:
With the outer fork tube all the way down start dumping oil into the inner tube. When it looks full work the cartridge up and down several times to fill it with oil. Make yourself a dip stick out of a clean unused zip tie to check the level. Hyperpro suggested 140mm for Flo’s forks.

If you have a MityVac, measure your distance on the suction tube and put a zip tie around the tube at the proper depth. Attach the reservoir and drop the end of the vac tube into the inner fork tube. Suck out the extra oil...if you don’t suck any up add a little extra and suck it down to the proper level.

If you don’t have a MityVac a turkey baster with a piece of tubing on it will work as well. Failing both these devices, just pour little bits in until it shows on your improvised dip stick. You can swab out any overage with a clean lint free shop towel.

Step five:
Install you’re new springs. Make sure you have your plastic spacers and all the little bits back in order and put the new springs in on top. Thread the cartridge through the center of the spring. We used our 19mm wrench to grab the bottom and spiral it up. Get your buddy back and have him compress the spring while you slip the 20mm wrench around the blue fitting and quickly crank the cap back on before his arms start shaking and he lets go. Use the 19mm on the caps and tighten it down to the torque you remembered it was when you pulled it off. Repeat for the other leg.

Shazam you’ve gotch’er new springs installed and some fresh oil to boot.

Step six:
As the Haynes Manual used to say, “refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.”

Shove the forks back in. Have your buddy pry the clamps open if you need to. Make sure your air bleed screws are accessible around the bars by putting them in the 6 o’clock position when sitting on the bike. Torque everything to the remembered or proper setting. Put the front tire on before the brake caliper because its easier and you’re set.

Take her for a ride and hit everything you can find.
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jamesdemien screwed with this post 03-16-2010 at 01:00 PM
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:17 PM   #2
Flo_Evans
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Some pics of the mess.









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Old 03-16-2010, 01:12 PM   #3
Flo_Evans
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Nice write up, you just had to use KTM orange huh?
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:17 PM   #4
jamesdemien OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flo_Evans
Nice write up, you just had to use KTM orange huh?
Just trying to follow the standards of the site... highlight color is usually orange. hehe


I took the bike out for a ride over lunch...it's an amazing transformation. If you're over 200lbs and own an X I'd do this mod first. The rear is easy enough to pump more air into but changing out the front springs makes the bike feel oh so good.

The front end is way more responsive to flicks and feel like suspension instead of a seesaw. Certainly worth the price of admission.
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:36 PM   #5
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Nice write up, Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:24 PM   #6
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Good Job and thanks.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:07 AM   #7
jamesdemien OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by udhawg
Nice write up, Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailace
Good Job and thanks.
You're welcome.

We did the 640 last night. Unfortunately, it was at my buddies house and I forgot my camera so you don't get to see any photos of the innards of the WP forks. They are pretty though. Check this thread if you have WP forks or just need a little more information on fork maintenance.

If you haven't changed your fork oil recently I'd go ahead and do it. It makes a huge difference and will most likely keep your forks in top shape avoiding expensive parts from failing.

I'm sure others will chime in with the service interval on the Xcha... The KTM is supposed to be annually.

For help deciding what to use in your forks check here. Hyperpro sent Flo some of their special blend so we used that on his bike... I got all crazy and used Mobile 1 ATF in mine because I heard good stuff about less stiction and other stuff. I may dump it after a few hundred miles but it felt pretty good around the block.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:33 AM   #8
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Question

" Make sure your air bleed screws are accessible around the bars by putting them in the 6 o’clock position when sitting on the bike"

Dumb Question???
1. Is this to put air back in the legs or Purge air out " Sorry I just don't know.
2. How much air space did leave ( Fluid level per leg ).

Dave
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwm650
" Make sure your air bleed screws are accessible around the bars by putting them in the 6 o’clock position when sitting on the bike"

Dumb Question???
1. Is this to put air back in the legs or Purge air out " Sorry I just don't know.
2. How much air space did leave ( Fluid level per leg ).

Dave
1. bleed screews are for removal of too much preassure building up (collecting) in front suspenstion during ride - from time to time its good to lower preasure in forks - seems softer afterwards
2. I must check fluid level regarding to Hyperpro instruction
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBiker78
1. bleed screews are for removal of too much preassure building up (collecting) in front suspenstion during ride - from time to time its good to lower preasure in forks - seems softer afterwards
Thanks, Got it
2. I must check fluid level regarding to Hyperpro instruction
Great, If you could post that.

Thanks, Dave
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:07 AM   #11
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Great write up guys, very helpful.

So, did it make much difference to how these basic forks work?

Anyone contacted Race Tech about their 25mm replacement cartidges or are they mega dollars?
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:14 PM   #12
ropedrag
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Thanks for the write up on this. Having never worked on forks before it was a great help. Only one comment, in step 5 if you have a 20mm wrench and notice the small flanges at the top of the blue fitting you don't need your friend to do anything, but sit there and drink your beer!

I also intalled the Emig Racing BMW G650 X Challenge Steering Stabilizer while I did the springs. Great one/two punch that really made the bike behave much better. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...77#post9015177 (Thanks Trailace for this write up!)

However, I'm interested as to what you landed on for fork adjustment after swapping the springs, how many clicks out are working for you?
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:06 AM   #13
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Just put Hyperpro springs and new fork oil in my forks tonight.

Workshop manual states a 70mm air gap to the oil level which is half what you did on yours?

Any ideas on the correct level? Posted this in the merged thread as well.
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:32 PM   #14
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I'm (almost) positive the standard oil level on Xchallenge forks was 90mm and not 70mm. The oil level is one way of tuning your suspension, so there's really no correct/must-be level to be set, depends what you want. 70mm is way too little, though, imho. I was running it mostly at 100 - 120mm levels.
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Old 06-06-2010, 05:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinnDuro
I'm (almost) positive the standard oil level on Xchallenge forks was 90mm and not 70mm. The oil level is one way of tuning your suspension, so there's really no correct/must-be level to be set, depends what you want. 70mm is way too little, though, imho. I was running it mostly at 100 - 120mm levels.
The Marzocchi 45mm Shiver manual quotes 90mm for cross(?) and 100mm for enduro riding and the BMW manual quotes 70mm. The BMW OEM fork has different cartridges inside compared to the Shiver though.
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