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Old 04-02-2010, 07:26 AM   #31
c.vestal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert
thanks

I had planned on getting a 530 this spring but the 570 just did something for me the 530 didn't do
Drain your savings?






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Old 04-02-2010, 07:53 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvestal
Drain your savings?








The 570 was a whopping $400 more than the 530

I'd have paid that difference for a 530 with blue plastics
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hair
I took the seat off of mine. After one look at the mess. I put the seat back on and went riding. At 50hrs. The cam chain is a little louder than I expected. I could really notice the difference when I ran the 570 a long side the 390. The 390 only has an hour or two on it.

They really are great bikes.
Which did you get? Your impressions of the differences?
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:48 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by CodeMonkee
Which did you get? Your impressions of the differences?
He got both
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:38 AM   #35
c.vestal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert

I'd have paid that difference for a 530 with blue plastics

Speaking of blue plastics....
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Old 04-03-2010, 08:42 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvestal
Speaking of blue plastics....
somebody needs a new avatar
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:45 AM   #37
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Ok, got some work done on Sunday.

EE radiator guards. The instructions say to remove the radiators but you don't need to. Also you have to trim the top 2 inches off the throttle cable guide. That doesn't seem to be a problem but I'll let you know if it is. The guards seem VERY stout and as you can see you can still use the stock plastic spoilers / front protectors. Those might need to come out if I have heating issues since I don't yet have a fan mounted. I hope I can make a fan fit with the EE guards.

Uh Oh note Be careful with the fasteners that hold the radiators on. The stock ones are short self tapping screws. You use the longer M6 regular thread bolts from EE to make up for the thickness of the guards. The longer ones bottomed out on the left side so I had to put a washer under the head to effectively reduce the bolt length a mm or so. If you try to tighten them down hard w/o a washer you will twist the bolt off resulting in a bad day best case and some frame welding worst case.





14T countershaft sprocket



52T Ironman sprocket from Dirt Tricks



raised the computer and am working on mounting a fuse box to power GPS and road book





Removing the tank was easier than I thought it would be. The subframe will be a lot easier to put back on with the tank off so I'll do it that way next time.






ganshert screwed with this post 04-05-2010 at 07:50 AM
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:30 PM   #38
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert
I pulled the trigger on an FE570
This thread will document the modifications, the good, and the bad things about the bike.
Why didn't you just post in one of the other FE570 posts?
Guess FE570's are as common as KLR650's.
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:56 PM   #40
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Your bike has been causing me to lose sleep.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:54 PM   #41
cyborg
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I really wonder about those plastic subframes, how well they will hold up over time... lust for the bike otherwise...
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Your bike has been causing me to lose sleep.
No doubt! I've really been trying to avoid reading this thread as I have a strong feeling it's going to end up costing me some dough for another bike, "the other" ktm Alas here I am again and that damn blue bike looks as awesome as ever.

As for powering the nav gear, I ran a pair of 14 gauge wire in a protective sheath from the steering head to the battery with a single inline/waterproof fuse at the battery and a quick disconnect at the steering head. It powers my roadbook, ico, & gps (All low power devices) through a harness that mates to the quick disconnect. IMHO having an additional fuse box and multiple fuses adds failure points without real advantage.
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pfb screwed with this post 04-05-2010 at 11:18 PM
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:15 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guns_equal_freedom
Why didn't you just post in one of the other FE570 posts?
Guess FE570's are as common as KLR650's.
Because then it wouldn't be "my" thread of awesomeness it would be some other person's thread with my awesomeness in it
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Your bike has been causing me to lose sleep.
me too

I guess you'll just have to get one. Consider it payback for the 990 I had to have after riding your SE
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:24 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfb
No doubt! I've really been trying to avoid reading this thread as I have a strong feeling it's going to end up costing me some dough for another bike, "the other" ktm Alas here I am again and that damn blue bike looks as awesome as ever.

As for powering the nav gear, I ran a pair of 16 gauge wire in a protective sheath from the steering head to the battery with a single inline/waterproof fuse at the battery and a quick disconnect at the steering head. It powers my roadbook, ico, & gps (All low power devices) through a harness that mates to the quick disconnect. IMHO having an additional fuse box and multiple fuses adds failure points without real advantage.
Yeah your probably right. I ran 12 gauge with a relay and 30A fuse by the battery and an additional 14 gauge wire directly from the battery so I have switched and battery power at the fuse box. I can always nix the fuse box but it sure makes it easy to distribute the power and use a different rated fuse for each device. The GPS is pretty expensive and I wanted to run a 2A fuse for it.

I'll put a horn on it at some point and the existing stock switch provides a ground so all I have to do is run 12V to the other side of the horn and I'm done.

I'm also going to mount a tri color LED that monitors voltage so that will wire right in to the fuse box.

I like my wiring to be tidy so I figured 4 things powered up there off of two wires w/o a distribution panel of some sort would get messy.
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