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Old 03-21-2010, 02:27 PM   #1
Crofty OP
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Linkage pivot bearings siezed. Help.

Seeing as there is a bit more traffic over here at adv, i am after some advice to try and remove the two needle bearing housings out of the linkage pivot.

I am rebuilding a '95 WR 250Z Yamaha and i'm farked if i can get the bastards to shift with the usual methods of vice pressing, swearing and beer.

Need a good penetrating lube or something. Bit concerned about using too much heat though.

Link to yamaha IT site if you are interested in having a look at build, will be a long work in progress though.

http://www.yamahait.com.au/forum/ind...ic,5677.0.html
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Old 03-21-2010, 02:43 PM   #2
DRjoe
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Put a hack saw blade through the bearing and cut a slot out of the housing (cut the slot where the alloys thickest just in case you go through the steel and hit alloy)

After you've cut a slot the bearing will push out real easy.
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Old 03-21-2010, 02:49 PM   #3
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I have just gone through the same process with my CRF 450. Every linkage bearing except one was either seized, or destroyed.

Heat from a heat gun cannot do much damage, although I have a internal bearing puller.

A tip, heat the linkage, and then spray the bearing with Inox. This cools the bearing, and *sometimes* they drop out.

Having said this, I had one bearing that refused to budge, the rolled edges of the bearing just broke off (linkage bearings are the drawn cup style of needle roller bearing).

The only way I could remove it, was to drill a 2mm hole onto the linkage, at the centre up the offending bearing, then using a 2 mm punch, bent the shell inwards (drawn cup bearings are only about 0.25mm thick), allowing it to be grabbed by a pair of pointy nosed pliers and removed.

The hole does not compromise the linkage structurally, and it is sealed after the new bearing is inserted with silicone.

Make sure you heat the linkage (with a heat gun, until a wet finger sizzles, when touched), before you insert the bearing, and drive it on the outer shell only (note, look at the ends of the bearing, one is rolled, one end is square, the square end faces out).

Also make sure the inner surface of the linkage is smooth, and not burred at all (from removal of old bearing), as the slightest imperfection will deform the case of the bearing, resulting in tight spots.

Final note, with the CRF, Honda replacement bearings and seals (8 bearings) were in the vicinity of $250. I went to a bearing supplier, and got SKF bearings, plus seals, for $105.

Hope this helps. GT
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Old 03-21-2010, 02:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
Put a hack saw blade through the bearing and cut a slot out of the housing (cut the slot where the alloys thickest just in case you go through the steel and hit alloy)

After you've cut a slot the bearing will push out real easy.
Could you demonstrate this for me?? I have always found the bearing steel is a tad harder than a hack saw blade steel....
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Old 03-21-2010, 02:59 PM   #5
Tee Dee Mmm
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A pot of boiling water is your friend this always works well even on thin easily breakable items like alternator housings with seized bearings and provides the most uniform heat around the item being heated.

Cheers and good luck.
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Old 03-21-2010, 03:01 PM   #6
Crofty OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTinAus

Having said this, I had one bearing that refused to budge, the rolled edges of the bearing just broke off (linkage bearings are the drawn cup style of needle roller bearing).
This is exactly what's happened, i think they've been there since '95
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Old 03-21-2010, 03:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
Put a hack saw blade through the bearing and cut a slot out of the housing (cut the slot where the alloys thickest just in case you go through the steel and hit alloy)

After you've cut a slot the bearing will push out real easy.
Tried that yesty, gave up after a minute. Hardened casings i'm thinking
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crofty
Tried that yesty, gave up after a minute. Hardened casings i'm thinking
Crofty, try this home made press it works well, trust me If it's stuck real good use a bit of heat with it, good luck.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=433397
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:03 AM   #9
DRjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTinAus
Could you demonstrate this for me?? I have always found the bearing steel is a tad harder than a hack saw blade steel....
Well i've done it before a few times so you must be able to get blades good enough.
We used to do it a lot to get old bushings out of pivots on plant (Yes I know there just a wee bit softer) Thats what gave me the idea to try on the bearing shell but it dose take a little bit longer to cut a herdened shell than a fozzy bronze bush.

I like your idea of drilling a hole and using a punch to flatten the shell.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:08 AM   #10
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Can you make a bearing puller by putting a threaded rod through the middle and then a bolt with a washer? You tighten the bolt which pushes the washer onto the bearing providing even force.

I can show you if you can't understand my ramblings.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:59 AM   #11
M.R.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silky
Can you make a bearing puller by putting a threaded rod through the middle and then a bolt with a washer? You tighten the bolt which pushes the washer onto the bearing providing even force.

I can show you if you can't understand my ramblings.

Yup you can see here


outback jack
Crofty, try this home made press it works well, trust me If it's stuck real good use a bit of heat with it, good luck.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=433397
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.R.
Yup you can see here


outback jack
Crofty, try this home made press it works well, trust me If it's stuck real good use a bit of heat with it, good luck.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=433397
Mayhaps have misread the original post....got to get the old bearing out before using this device to push in the new one.....
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTinAus
Mayhaps have misread the original post....got to get the old bearing out before using this device to push in the new one.....
No not at all, it will work just as well getting them out. Just put a larger (than the opening) socket over the bearing you want out, then pull the bearing race that way. It just needs to be big enough to accept the race once removed.
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:37 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outback jack
No not at all, it will work just as well getting them out. Just put a larger (than the opening) socket over the bearing you want out, then pull the bearing race that way. It just needs to be big enough to accept the race once removed.
Yeah, never thought of it that way, was thinking it was like mine, hole for the bearing machined the exact length of the bearing, and the through hole only 1mm bigger than the shaft. as good as a blind bearing .
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTinAus
Yeah, never thought of it that way, was thinking it was like mine, hole for the bearing machined the exact length of the bearing, and the through hole only 1mm bigger than the shaft. as good as a blind bearing .
Only once i had real trouble getting one out but the air tool ratchet hammer on the threaded rod shot it out like a bullet
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