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Old 07-17-2014, 08:39 AM   #1711
danedg OP
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Joined: May 2008
Location: U-puku-ipi-sing
Oddometer: 6,223
Sparkplugs

While we are on the subject of sparkplugs.....
I've had bad luck with the NGK B8ES (B8HS) plugs that I've been using from day one of this saga. The last batch of 8 that I got have resulted in 4 of them bad out of the box or shortly thereafter. 2 would not 0 out for continuity and the others left me stranded with fouled plugs. I think I've got a couple of them in there now that seem to firing correctly.
A 50% failure rate is not a real confidence builder....
I'm using the NGK's because I can't find Bosch plugs in my neck of the woods. Even on the net they are as scarce as hen's teeth. The factory specs Bosch W240T1 (or 2) for the HK or LK heads. Those are NLA as far as I can determine, and have been superceded by W4AC and W4CC. I haven't been able to find those either through the normal channels as no one uses them in modern vehicles. I was just about to give up when I have finally found a source for the Bosch plugs.

It seems that the plugs are now used regularly in modern chainsaws.
I just received a batch of plugs from forestershop.com, a forestry supply company in Wilkes-Barre, PA. http://www.forestershop.com/

The W4AC plugs are made in Germany, the W4CC plugs are made in India?
Im looking forward to seeing if the quality is better than the NGK
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:17 PM   #1712
David4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Anyone have experience with it? Pretty tempting.
This battery is now back ordered until the end of August 2014. I'm going ahead with my purchase.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:04 PM   #1713
danedg OP
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This is what I've been using

From Batteries Plus . $37 It's a sealed battery,no leaks. 14AH
What you want is the T1 model. It's got the right connector with the fuse inline.




RAYA6-14T2 Rayovac 6V 14Ah Battery with H Terminal Batteries and Chargers Power Wheels Toy or Riding Car
Batteries and Chargers Power Wheels Toy or Riding Car Rayovac 6V 14Ah Battery with H Terminal RAYA6-14T2 . Powerwheel H-type terminal. Rayovac AGM batteries are quality tested and inspected to insure the highest standards in performance. To keep you running throughout the day you can trust Rayovac batteries.
Item number: RAYA6-14T2
Weight: 6.2400 lbs
Voltage: 6V
Capacity: 14AH
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:47 AM   #1714
jcf
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Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
While we are on the subject of sparkplugs.....
I've had bad luck with the NGK B8ES (B8HS) plugs that I've been using from day one of this saga. The last batch of 8 that I got have resulted in 4 of them bad out of the box or shortly thereafter. 2 would not 0 out for continuity and the others left me stranded with fouled plugs. I think I've got a couple of them in there now that seem to firing correctly.
A 50% failure rate is not a real confidence builder....
I'm using the NGK's because I can't find Bosch plugs in my neck of the woods. Even on the net they are as scarce as hen's teeth. The factory specs Bosch W240T1 (or 2) for the HK or LK heads. Those are NLA as far as I can determine, and have been superceded by W4AC and W4CC. I haven't been able to find those either through the normal channels as no one uses them in modern vehicles. I was just about to give up when I have finally found a source for the Bosch plugs.

It seems that the plugs are now used regularly in modern chainsaws.
I just received a batch of plugs from forestershop.com, a forestry supply company in Wilkes-Barre, PA. http://www.forestershop.com/

The W4AC plugs are made in Germany, the W4CC plugs are made in India?
Im looking forward to seeing if the quality is better than the NGK
Wow - that is just shocking (sorry) to hear.

I have had starting issues that I could not figure out - all new ignition parts/battery - even a few sets of those same plugs
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Old 07-18-2014, 01:16 PM   #1715
danedg OP
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Starting issues will not involve the battery.
The magneto will spin, send voltage to the coil, and the points will fire the plugs.
Hard starting will be a coil problem or a plug problem.
Pull the plugs and set them on the cylinders attached to the wires.
Kick the motor over and you should see a big fat blue spark...
If not, start chasing it back from the plugs. Then the caps, then the wires, then the coil.
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:19 PM   #1716
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...and the points, which is how the timing is set.....

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Old 07-19-2014, 02:10 AM   #1717
RagerToo
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I haven't followed this entire saga, but I have worked with a magneto fired engine or two.

I traced back a hard starter to a mis-"adjusted" mag spring. Someone somewhere had allowed the magneto to lose a wrap of spring tension. This was an old cast iron industrial engine. They had been using a generator/ starter motor and a belt to crank the holy hell out of the engine. After adjusting the mag spring, the mag released fast enough to fire the engine with one or two pulls of the starter cord.

I hope this makes some sense.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:19 AM   #1718
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What's the bike with starting issues? Always start the timing drill with aligning the flux marks. If the marks are off (yes, they do drift), it may well affect starting. Once the flux is aligned, then proceed with checking the points and setting the timing (never adjust the timing by moving the mag body, that will affect the flux). If starting gets more and more difficult, to the point of requiring bump starting, the likely cause is the coil.

Work your way in, start with the spark plugs (or as the English say "sparking plugs"),....... Plugs, plug caps, H/T leads (plug wires), check the spark gap at the mag (should be 10mm if I'm remembering right), check the flux alignment, clean and lube the advance mechanism (check for sticking), check and lube the points and condenser (don't forget to check the insulating bushing and washers for the points wire), adjust the point gap, check and adjust the timing (on manual retard bikes, check and adjust the retard stop). If the phenolic block is worn, you will be able to set the point gap but will not likely be able to adjust the timing, replace the points.

If starting problems continue, check the carbs for water or dirt or poor adjustment. If hard starting continues, even when warm, I would suspect the coil.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:59 PM   #1719
David4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
I know you've all been asking yourselves....
What kind of oils does Dan run?
so I'll tell you...and why...and we'll never have to have another oil discussion... ever.. until next week.


In the tranny, driveshaft and rear end....
Sta lube GL-4... more zinc for the brassy things...available at most NAPA stores....
In the motor:
Shell 40W NON DETERGENT motor oil... why ND?

Detergent motor oil suspends all the dirt in the oil in anticipation of puttin' it through the oil filter......

I'd rather drain the shit every 1000 miles out of the pan.... than have THAT MUCH MORE get slung.....

LucasOIL zinc additive.... again, all the brassy parts are starving for the zinc that's been deleted form modern fluids due to EPA regs....
I put a dwollop in the tranny, the rear drive, driveshaft area, AND the crankcase... the tappets and crankshaft really like it.
Dan, I've bought these oils, please define the amount of Lucas oil described as a
"dwollop". ???? Dave
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:04 AM   #1720
bpeckm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David4 View Post
Dan, I've bought these oils, please define the amount of Lucas oil described as a
"dwollop". ???? Dave
Pretty sure that it's a metric term... you know: either ten times or one-tenth of a regular dollop. Dan will know.

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Old 08-01-2014, 12:56 PM   #1721
danedg OP
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It's a bit more than a spooge..a lot more than a squirt....
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:30 PM   #1722
David4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
It's a bit more than a spooge..a lot more than a squirt....
I see there's an art to oil chemistry!
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:10 PM   #1723
danedg OP
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The zinc is primarily added to the engine oil. It helps "cushion" the flat tappet against the flat cam. The pressures exerted there are enormous, and need all the help they can get. It's been said that oil with no(lo) zinc is like no oil at all. It protects sliding surfaces from each other. And that includes piston rings,wrist pins,valve guides,bronze bushings,bearing surfaces, helical cut gears,.etc., etc.....

No one can tell you the % of this and that in their product, or how much of that and this is needed for your machine.
I put a big ol' SQUIIIIIIRRRRRTTT!.. of the shit in whenever I change oils.
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danedg screwed with this post 08-01-2014 at 04:37 PM
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:52 AM   #1724
David4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
I put a big ol' SQUIIIIIIRRRRRTTT!.. of the shit in whenever I change oils.
Got it..thanks. dave
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:07 AM   #1725
Chobro
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Picking up a 68r50us. Drove to my folks house in NJ where the bike has been since the '90s, last ridden at the Vt. MOA national in '06. Not sure if this pic will work , but here goes.
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