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Old 04-20-2011, 06:05 PM   #706
danedg OP
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:16 PM   #707
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:40 PM   #708
kixtand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
Well,
It was explained to me that either the coil worked, or it didn't. I can't verify a slow, painful, demise cause it hasn't happened to me.
I would certainly check the points gap, they mighta slipped.
Check your timing with a light. You can use a 12v timing light. Hook the power up to any spare 12V battery, and the inductor lead to either spark plug wire. You should be seeing the OT mark on the flywheel. Switch the lead to the other wire. You should see the OT mark at the same spot (idle). If they're not, then your differential timing is off, which is another bollox but won't really affect your starting. If the timing is off, it'll REALLY affect your starting.
Pull the front cover and inspect the points and condenser. Physically. I had a bad condenser recently. It was the original. Looked good visually, but the bike was running funny. I grabbed the wire coming off the top and the solder connection had failed.
Make sure your spark plug caps are screwed on tight. Are your wires new?
Carbs? Grab a 13mm and check to make sure they're snugged up on the studs. When running, squirt the flange area with some carb cleaner. If you've got an air leak, the motor will stumble.
Do your carbs leak, a lot? Another issue, but could affect your hot start.
All these things I described, are no cost basic stuff. So basic that all we rocket surgeons often overlook 'em.
Since my rebuild, the only problems that have occurred, have been these types of things. Loose wires, sloppy fasteners, basically just the loose nut holding the handlebars kind of thing...
I've had a lot of, "...well! No wonder!..." moments. And I've learned some valuable lessons.
Wiggle your wire, and check your nuts!
A couple things--

A coil can definitely fail when hot, not when cold, when it first starts its demise, but I'd say it won't do that for long as it runs hot most of the time and will soon fail catastrophically...

I had the capacitor wire on my R50 break loose as well, only mine was rolling along down the road fat, dumb and happy. All of a sudden the bike started running like crap, and I barely nursed it off the road into a parking lot. Got it stopped, tried to restart and fired right up, but as soon as you gave it a little gas, and things started bouncing around, missing and backfiring like it was meant to do it... Pulled the front cover, saw the loose wire and soldered it back in-situ (w/ LEAD solder, by the way .) Problem solved.

kix
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:40 AM   #709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
Please don't use that adjustable wrench on that lovely carburettor.

Coils can definitely be degraded before they fail. The unfortunate thing about magnetos is that they give their weakest spark at low RPM, such as when you are starting the engine. So a degraded coil becomes more of an issue during starts than any other time.

The fortunate thing about them is that they don'r require a battery to work. And it sounds cool; Mag - Neato!
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:35 AM   #710
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HEY does that wrench say "Dan" or "Bardavon" on it?

And dont worry twotail, I'm almost positive that was used for an electrical problem (no pun intended)
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:34 PM   #711
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:26 PM   #712
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:05 PM   #713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergermeister View Post
Gas Boot, my second favorite movie.

Anyone use Vech's timing buzz box?
It's a capacitance meter. The thing I like about that type of mag timing meter is that you don't have to disconnect the lead from the points. Just hook it up and you're good to go.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:55 AM   #714
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I've had my /2 for just one month.
  1. Cold start, fuel on depress ticklers for less than one second, small amount of throttle and kick. Sometimes goes first kick, sometimes takes two or three. I used to ride Brit singles so have some kicker experience
  2. Hot start, leave fuel off, small amount of throttle and kick. Sometimes goes first kick, sometimes takes two or three.
  3. Even though my bike has only apparently done 19,500 miles (I've put 1,000 of those on in the month I've owned it) it still had the distorted carb flanges. I used fine wet & dry paper, wet, on a glass sheet to lap them down. When tightening the nuts on the fixing studs I only use one finger about three inches along the wrench from the stud. Little more than finger tight really. They haven't come loose. If in doubt use thread lock not more torque.
  4. The bike had the original magneto coil, started and ran great when cold, misfired then died and wouldn't start when really hot after about 30 minutes from a cold start. New coil and condenser fitted it's now like a new bike.
One question for the collective. My bike (1969 R60 US) will pull evenly from around 20 mph but as you would expect is a bit lumpy at such low revs. It all smooths out until around 45-55mph (still in top) it gets a bit harsh and vibey. By the time I get to 60mph all is smoooth and good. Is this a feature of these bikes or do I have some carburation/ignition issues?
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:08 AM   #715
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mines a '68 50/2.at first i was shifting around 40mph from 3rd to 4th,and it would vibrate and bog down a bit.now,depending on the road,i stay in 3rd to at least 45,and usually 50-55 before shifting.it really smooths out at the upper rev range.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:43 AM   #716
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I was thinking about that yesterday. There is a school of thought out there, that highly recommends that these bikes, as tractorlike as they may appear, will run better, faster, longer by driving them at the top end of the rpm curve. In other words, don't lug 'em. It took a lot of practice to NOT shift into 4th until 60. For the most part, I'm in third, until I get near a slab.
The technical reason is, the crank. Chugging around at low rpms, puts a lot more strain on that press fit piece of engineering, than staying up in the revs. You're then using that big fat flywheel to maintain forward velocity, and not asking the crankshaft to become the main stump puller.
And yes, they do run smoother at faster rpms...
So, try driving your /2 more like a Bugatti, rather than a Deere.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:57 AM   #717
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Plus 1. Let it rev. You will know you're right when the exhaust starts to "sing" to you. Down low it's a putt putt, and its good not to lug any airhead.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:59 AM   #718
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Same is true on my /6's.

I rode my R75/6 for 5 years without a tac before I got my R90/6 (with a working tac) going. I realized was lugging the hell out of the R75. Everything's better at higher RPM's.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:21 PM   #719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
HEY does that wrench say "Dan" or "Bardavon" on it?

And dont worry twotail, I'm almost positive that was used for an electrical problem (no pun intended)
It says D E.
Sharpie graphics applied to Paint Pen base.
You don't own a white Paint Pen, and I've owned that 6" Crescent for a whole year!!!
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:47 AM   #720
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When I was a teenager, in the seventies, I worked in a machine shop in the back of an auto parts store. My boss/Mentor was a grumpy old man named Earl Butte. If I used an adjustable wrench for anything other than fixing the plumbing, he would rap me across the knuckles with it.
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