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Old 05-20-2011, 11:38 AM   #811
danedg OP
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Joined: May 2008
Location: U-puku-ipi-sing
Oddometer: 6,112
Quote:
Originally Posted by schnitzenrader View Post
Just joined.
Just dismantled My R69S.
I've been staring at the sport tank deciding were to begin.

Should I strip the paint, and the electrolosis, primer, then liner, primer wet sand and then paint.

I notice a lot of photos from the area (Hudson vallyish, westchesterish thru the Berkshires) looking for some insight, local vendors...AM I in the ball park??
Welcome aboard.
Does your bike run?
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68 R60US, 74 MG Eldorado,
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:04 PM   #812
schnitzenrader
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ummm...maybe. It moves freely. the gas was so old I didn't dare. I'm trying to avoid anymore damage. It ran when I parked it but i put in some aftermarket diode that fried it.....it all wnt down hill from there.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:18 PM   #813
danedg OP
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With some more info and history, I'd feel better about making recommendations.
How many miles?
Original owner?
What are your goals for the bike? Are you gonna ride it, or just make it pretty and sell it?
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:44 PM   #814
danedg OP
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schnitzenrader,
All the Hudson Valley stuff you see is from me, I'm in Poughkeepsie.
The purpose of starting this thread was to provide some support for those like myself who own and ride a slash 2. That included rebuilding a worn out bike doing as much of the work yourself to keep expenses in check. (Didn't happen, but it helped).
There is no "local" vendor. Your computer is about to become your primary source of information and parts that are located across the US and the rest of the globe.
I have developed a list of those folks and companies that have made it possible for us to continue to ride and enjoy these bikes. It's not complete, and much depends on how far your ready to roll up your own sleeves...
The rest of the folks on this thread, have all contributed much to my project and will be watching yours...
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:49 PM   #815
schnitzenrader
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It's a 63, r69s 88k miles. I'm the second owner.
I bought it from a guy in Coscob ct. who purchases it when he retired.

I'm less interested in pretty, but I never want to have to paint it again. Mostly I'm thinking to make this bike mechanicaly sound and free of blemmishes. So the idea is to clean the pieces first and assemble and replace as needed.
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:02 PM   #816
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88K is a lot of miles. Do you have any service history on the bike? Does the PO? [previous owner}?
Are you mechanically inclined?
How far have you dismantled the bike?
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:14 PM   #817
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Fluids

My first recommendation is to drain all existing fluids for inspection.
Get some paint tray liners and separately drop the motor oil, then tranny, then driveshaft, then rear drive. Oh yeah, I see fuel filters on the gas lines. Good. Pull the lines from the carb tops and drain into a separate bucket.
We're looking for water anywhere...bad.
We're looking for bits and chunks..bad.
We're looking for "The Brassy Sheen". The bike is assembled with brass and bronze parts. How much is in the oils is helpful to know from the outset.
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:35 PM   #818
schnitzenrader
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I've drained it all. I have the engine oil and the swingarm oil in seperate cans for now. I'll do the checks for filings and alike but no water so far. The only assembly not removed are the earls forks and headlight bucket.

My handlebars and risers are rusted and pitted. I was considdering treating these and the bar as one piece as i dont think the risers could take another bar change and I love these bars, so that I might finish them together? Maybe polish down to the bare metal and clear coat even.
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:02 PM   #819
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Sorry I missed part of your post. I have no service history on the bike. I'm going in assuming the worst. I'll probably need some tapered bearings, small updates. I'm gonna go change the slingers (if I can).

I'm mechanicaly minded more than has been practiced. I'm swapping out the clutch on my /5 as I write this...(Swing arm bearingadjusting is a mystery to me by the way). So I'll have a better idea by the end of the weekend.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:22 PM   #820
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Where are you sending the motor for a complete rebuild?
Max' in Troy rebuilt my tranny...
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:01 PM   #821
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Fresh air and Ursula

Today, I finally got to take Ursula out for a ride.
She performed flawlessly. No leaks, no misses, no errors of any kind. I have been grinning like an idiot all day. After 20 years of riding this bike, I am still amazed by how much FUN 27 horsepower can be. The new rear shocks are nice on my fanny and really kept that Metzler glued to the pavement. Ursula showed her evil side, too. She was goading me, tempting me, even urging me. "Stop taking it so easy. Give it to me. Twist my throttle to the blue line. Scrape my valve covers in the turns." I did give her her head a couple times, but I showed restraint. Her valve covers are still smooth. And as I rolled into the garage, Ursula turned 78,000 miles. I checked the head temps with the IR gun and had 265 degrees left and 264 degrees right. A perfect end to a perfect day. I did stop once, so here are a couple photos.





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Old 05-21-2011, 07:30 PM   #822
Beamer Bum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
Rebuilt your carbs?.... what was involved? Gasket set?...or did you send 'em back to Bing?
Sam's blaming his lack o' HP and running real hot on the ethanol.
I'd like a better description of the process used to recenter your differential...
I tackled mine Friday and went from 15 to 5 degrees... MAJOR difference!
I did a complete rebuild on the carbs. The full kit for both carbs is $210 from Bing. It came with all gaskets and o rings, all jets, needles, floats and float needles ( I have lever top carbs), air screws and nuts, and boots for the throttle cable. These carbs are way easier than the CV carbs on my RS.
Running hot and lack of power is usually timing too advanced or lean carb settings. He might have an air leak like the flanges.

The process to get my differntial timing better was tedoius and time consuming, but after my ride today, it was well worth it. I started by using Prussian Blue spotting dye on the inside of the magneto rotor. After torquing the rotor on the camshaft and removing it, the dye was only transferred to the cam in a limited area. Ideally it should coat the entire contact surface on the cam. So, I first removed the magneto housing and coil,then cut a cardboard disc to fit over the end of the cam and go down to the crankcase breather and taped it to the outside of the timing cover. This was to allow the cam to rotate, but keep debris from falling in the engine. Then I took some sandpaper and started removing material from the nose of the cam. Remember that I started out with .042 inches of runout on the end of the rotor where the advance mounts. I just kept sanding and testing the fit with dye until I had full contact between the tapers. I finished up with valve grinding compound on the tapers. That brought the runout ( measured with a dial indicator) to .003 inches at the tip of the rotor. Using a multimeter to check when the points open revealed about 3 degrees difference between the cylinders. I set the one cylinder to the mark above the "S" and the other cylinder was at the middle of the "S" I then set it so the more advanced cylinder is on the mark and the second cylinder is slightly behind it. That way the advanced cylinder is still at the mark above the "F" at high rpm and not before the "F" mark or too advanced. Clear as mud, right?
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:40 PM   #823
danedg OP
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That bike doesn't have 27 HP.....
it's got 30!
No wonder you're so impressed with it's raw power!
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:44 PM   #824
Beamer Bum
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18 seconds flat in the quarter mile. By the way that is 2 seconds slower than the 2011 Ford Focus.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:01 PM   #825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnitzenrader View Post
Just joined.
Just dismantled My R69S.
I've been staring at the sport tank deciding were to begin.

Should I strip the paint, and the electrolosis, primer, then liner, primer wet sand and then paint.

I notice a lot of photos from the area (Hudson vallyish, westchesterish thru the Berkshires) looking for some insight, local vendors...AM I in the ball park??
I can't really tell from the picture how bad the paint is. I looks like it's just dirty. Have you tried waxing it up to see how it looks? As for the engine, here is all you have to do:



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