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Old 09-01-2014, 05:01 PM   #17656
STBNE
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I use Walmart's Supertech 20w50 synthetic in 5 quart container only $12 and change...good quality oil...supplier is Pennzoil/QuakerState
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-S...Quart/16474401
Cant find the speciific oil weight but its the same price as this...
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:29 PM   #17657
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Originally Posted by STBNE View Post
I use Walmart's Supertech 20w50 synthetic in 5 quart container only $12 and change...good quality oil...supplier is Pennzoil/QuakerState
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-S...Quart/16474401
Cant find the speciific oil weight but its the same price as this...
Looking for the specs on it. The one thing I'm a stickler about is that it meet JASO MA-2 specs. Just about all diesel oils do. Don't remember precisely where I got that, but I've heard it from several engine builders and it seems to be borne out every time I get a notion to look into it.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #17658
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Looking for the specs on it. The one thing I'm a stickler about is that it meet JASO MA-2 specs. Just about all diesel oils do. Don't remember precisely where I got that, but I've heard it from several engine builders and it seems to be borne out every time I get a notion to look into it.
Yep - that is the Japanese Motorcycle Manufacturers specification for an oil used for engine lubricating AND a wet clutch... can't have too many friction modifiers with a wet clutch.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/art...MA_JASO_MB.php

Rotella meets those specs. Reason I use it over a motorcycle specific oil.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:03 PM   #17659
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Looking for the specs on it. The one thing I'm a stickler about is that it meet JASO MA-2 specs. Just about all diesel oils do. Don't remember precisely where I got that, but I've heard it from several engine builders and it seems to be borne out every time I get a notion to look into it.
Yep - that is the Japanese Motorcycle Manufacturers specification for an oil used for engine lubricating AND a wet clutch... can't have too many friction modifiers with a wet clutch.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/art...MA_JASO_MB.php

Rotella meets JASO DH2 and JASO MA. Reason I use it over a motorcycle specific oils at higher prices.

Plus, I used it in the VW TDI for 200,000 miles (10,000 mile oil change intervals), so it was easy to just buy more and use it in the motorcycles as well.... also figured because of the nice soot control / acid resistance for the diesels, it would work in a motorcycle better if I got lazy and didn't feel like changing the oil
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:19 PM   #17660
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Originally Posted by wb57 View Post
Looking for the specs on it. The one thing I'm a stickler about is that it meet JASO MA-2 specs. Just about all diesel oils do. Don't remember precisely where I got that, but I've heard it from several engine builders and it seems to be borne out every time I get a notion to look into it.
you've got me there...I'm clueless...however amongst the XS1100 crowd the supertech is the right stuff...it has no friction modifiers...we also have the wet sump clutch...
OK I looked at my container here at home it says on the back "where a SAE 20w50 that meets API,SN,SM or SL is specified...so according to the JASO standards...we are good here...why spend so much more when this does essentially the same for substantially less $$$. Its Pennzoil/Quaker State like I said before...
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:32 PM   #17661
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Going to dig into it further, but take a look at this page:

API SN is the most current designation for cars.

JASO MA is motorcycle specific.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#JASO
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:42 PM   #17662
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if your clutch doesn't slip, use it!

That is the real problem with friction modifiers - they make some wet clutches slip.... never had a problem with mobil 1 on some bikes, but simply swapped to JASO MA certified just because.... the earlier link I provided explains better than wikipedia about the JASO MA / MB specification.... there is the quality level (which is your API service grade rating in the picture there).... and then:

needs to meet certain limits in "Dynamic Friction Characteristic Index (DFI), Static Friction Characteristic Index (SFI) and Stop Time Index (STI) should be within the following limits according to the JASO 904:2006 friction test" The link shows what those are, and then also talks about the sub classification of MA1 vs MA2 (whatever... we are not that picky with our bikes).
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:42 PM   #17663
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Reminder: change your oil and grab the current tag!

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Tag

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Old 09-01-2014, 09:46 PM   #17664
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No clutch slippage with the supertech...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:56 PM   #17665
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No clutch slippage with the supertech...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
then carry on! ... and grab/move the tag!
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:57 PM   #17666
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I order Mobil 1 20W50 V Twin from Amazon, but can use any oil, have a dry clutch The thing on the older design valve / tappet engines (like the boxer), a percent of Zinc was needed to lube some valve related stuff.. I forget all details but had long ago read which oils have it. I used Castrol 20W50 regular dyno for first 20k miles on this bike. I can still use it today, but change the synthetic every 6,000 miles so it's worth the peace of mind. When I had bikes with wet clutch I always used MC spec oil as I was too afraid to run into issues contaminating the clutch plates.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:40 PM   #17667
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I've been using Rotella T full synthetic in bikes for years....and never had any issues. I think the last jug I bought from WM was about $23. I used to buy the "no additives version" of Mobil 1 from WM years ago for $21 a jug, but it jumped up quite a bit in price, and I migrated to Rotella after hearing so many people testify about using it.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:27 AM   #17668
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new tar???

this shinko 712 is 1 year old and has only 4404 miles...it looks close to being toast to me...considering my vintage Yamaha rally upcoming...700 miles round trip on the slabs and maybe 400 miles of weekened twisties riding...if its dry then I'd be okay but if its raining then this isnt any good...Folks over on the Yamaha forum saying to change it...65 bucks and no shipping seems like cheap insurance to me....what do y'all think??
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:31 AM   #17669
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this shinko 712 is 1 year old and has only 4404 miles...it looks close to being toast to me...considering my vintage Yamaha rally upcoming...700 miles round trip on the slabs and maybe 400 miles of weekened twisties riding...if its dry then I'd be okay but if its raining then this isnt any good...Folks over on the Yamaha forum saying to change it...65 bucks and no shipping seems like cheap insurance to me....what do y'all think??
Looks good enough to me for another 500+ miles. Then again, I'm known to push the limits on a tire.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:41 AM   #17670
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500 miles more no problem...but I am looking at a minimum of 1100 miles over 4 days...my feeling is if I bring this tire I will miss some riding...65 bucks is cheap insurance....so I'll err on the side of caution...but i wont throw away that tire....
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