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Old 08-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #12901
schnabba
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Originally Posted by wb57 View Post
If the relay failed, could it cause a single indicator to stop working? It's a 2 pin relay.
no. the relay is basically a wire that heats up, then moves. It needs resistance and a charged circuit. If one side works, but not the other, it's not the relay. Wiring to/from the bulbs, or the bulbs themselves. Try swapping bulbs from front to back on the bad side, then swap them left to right.... see if it follows the bulb or stays with the wiring. If you have a continuity tester / ohm meter, check the resistance of the bulbs, then take a look at the socket itself - make sure it's clean (spray it out with WD-40 if it's not, a good dielectric grease is always a good thing to do as well).
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:31 PM   #12902
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Not bulbs, LEDs. Yamaha parts, but not original equipment. Only the front right has stopped working.

Check my planned troubleshooting plan for the morning and see if I'm doing anything glaringly stupid or missing something blatantly obvious, if you don't mind.

First thing I'm going to do is pull the turn signal that isn't working and just apply 12V directly to it to see if it lights. If it doesn't, I know it's within that particular unit. I'm guessing at this point, as I haven't disassembled the signal, that it has some sort of resistor in there that's required by the LEDs. The wiring all looks perfect *visually*. I haven't put a meter on anything yet.

If it does light with 12V applied, I'm going to have to start tracing wires, I guess. I don't think it can be the switch itself as the right rear does light, but flashes fast - as you'd expect if the front was out.

For one instant today, the entire left side started flashing fast, but went back to normal once I removed and reseated the flasher/relay.

It's my understanding that there are at least a couple types of flasher/relays - the mechanical that heats up/cools down like you described and an electronic version of the same. This is a sealed, small unit, so (again) I'm guessing that it's not the mechanical version.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:49 PM   #12903
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well, it may be smaller, but if it's designed around the resistance of incandescent bulbs, you'll have issues. I would save that assumption until last.... first, swap bulbs around, see if it follows the bulbs or not.... go from there. hopefully the LED won't mind reverse polarity if you apply the voltage backwards
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:29 AM   #12904
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That'll work too and I can do it without running down to the office for my tools...

Wires are color coded...
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:12 AM   #12905
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Hmmmm.....

Checked for voltage on the side in question and it was there. Plugged in the opposite side turn signal and it lit, but went to a fast flash...

Wait... I didn't plug the suspect turn signal into the known good side yet.

Back in a minute.

There is good voltage to the relay, but can't find an easy way to check output with the tools I have just yet.

Edit: Both lamps show resistance, but not identical with my meter/testing method. It's a digital multi-meter and both showed between 0.35 and 1.5 on the 20M scale.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:52 AM   #12906
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Were all the turn signals/ relay/ flashing/ indicator. All working before?
No changes in the circuit? Then the one stopped working?
You are on the right track. LED's are polarity sensitive.
don't forget to check the indicator bulb. Ain't many things it can be.
Bad led, bad relay, bad wire, bad indicator bulb.
Mine don't have resistors. I had to remove my indicator bulb to keep them from all flashing together. They still flash fast tho.
Didn't change the flasher relay or add resistors.
Google the bike wiring diagram. That helps.
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:08 AM   #12907
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Pics. for wb ... he don't get out much.

WCU from airport rd.

WCU band practice field.
They have an intense band practice week before classes start to be ready for the first football game. They have 200 new freshmen to breakin this year.

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Old 08-11-2013, 08:23 AM   #12908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf97 View Post
Were all the turn signals/ relay/ flashing/ indicator. All working before?
No changes in the circuit? Then the one stopped working?
You are on the right track. LED's are polarity sensitive.
don't forget to check the indicator bulb. Ain't many things it can be.
Bad led, bad relay, bad wire, bad indicator bulb.
Mine don't have resistors. I had to remove my indicator bulb to keep them from all flashing together. They still flash fast tho.
Didn't change the flasher relay or ad resistors.
Google the bike wiring diagram. That helps.
Everything worked perfectly until yester afternoon. Just swapped out the relay and the fast flashing right rear is fixed, but the right front is still out. I'll make sure I got it plugged in snugly when I get home and then start barking up other trees.

Edit: Just remembered one thing I didn't do was to apply 12v directly to the lamp while I had it off the bike. Going to do that now. If it tests bad, and I suspect it is at this point, I know LEDs don't "go bad", for the most part. Is there something internal to the signal (it appears to be sealed) that can be fixed/replaced or is it just a throwaway?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:08 AM   #12909
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Pics. for wb ... he don't get out much.
Dooood.... I don't STAY IN much!!! Great pics. I really wish I could ride more in WNC. Everytime I consider heading that way, the weather looks pretty rough though.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #12910
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Originally Posted by wb57 View Post
.

Edit: Just remembered one thing I didn't do was to apply 12v directly to the lamp while I had it off the bike. Going to do that now. If it tests bad, and I suspect it is at this point, I know LEDs don't "go bad", for the most part. Is there something internal to the signal (it appears to be sealed) that can be fixed/replaced or is it just a throwaway?
LED's are poliarity sensitive. Some LED's can be damaged if hooked up backwards. LED's can go bad too. I replace them on firetrucks when they quit. Just not as often as incandesent bulbs.

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Old 08-11-2013, 10:22 AM   #12911
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And then, on the other hand, it's possible that the original installer - although very neat and tidy - was incompetent enough to pinch the wires hard enough to actually break them. Problem solved with a little solder and electrical tape. Thanks for the advice, guys.
I know a good bit more about LEDs than I did yesterday at this time. And I got another lesson in always looking at the simple shit first.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #12912
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Grab

N. Raleigh campus



From an architectural perspective, descent designed parking structure.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:03 PM   #12913
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Good grab!
I'm putting around WF right now getting file tags. If you're still in the area, let me know and I'll meet you for a cold, watery beverage.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:29 PM   #12914
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New tag



Clue

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Old 08-11-2013, 12:49 PM   #12915
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Good grab!
I'm putting around WF right now getting file tags. If you're still in the area, let me know and I'll meet you for a cold, watery beverage.
Is WF the southern boundary of the TRITOR?
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