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Old 03-30-2010, 08:00 AM   #16
CurlyMike
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I put an Alpha from Rick on my 83 R100 after the stock beaner failed, has been flawless and even better than I expected. Have had it for 3 months going on 4 now and I ride everyday commuting 100 miles each day on it here in Texas, where its cold in the morning and hot in the afternoon. Well worth the investment for reliability, function and ease of replacing the hall unit if ever needed. Thats my 3 worth...
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evildonald
Here's another bit of insanity I've been pondering, I have a dead slash 5 motor and have given some thought to swapping out the whole front end on my r-100 for the old style one with the points and all...any body know if this is do-able? Is it imoral?

Thanks for all the help!
The front of the camshaft is different. Nothing for the point mechnism to ride on with the later cam.
...and even if you could, yes, it would be immoral.
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evildonald
O.K. looks like we're pretty much on the same page, Alpha can is closer to stock, Omega lets you keep a back-up system on the bike and ready for any possible break-down, with the added advantage of not running off of the worn-out timing chain...but the Enduralst alternator is tempting... I guess what I would really like to do is put the thing back to points, but I think the points bean-cans are getting pretty scarce. Anyone running a dual plug bike on points? It seems like it would be fine, mabey a little less life span...I'm definitly a breaker points guy if I don't have to spend a fortune to get it to work.

Here's another bit of insanity I've been pondering, I have a dead slash 5 motor and have given some thought to swapping out the whole front end on my r-100 for the old style one with the points and all...any body know if this is do-able? Is it imoral?

Thanks for all the help!
If youre going to go with a /5 points and covers on an R-100 engine, youre going to have to think this swap through carefully and a set of /6 parts might work better, since the /6 cover is vented.

You'll not only need to swap the covers but you'll need a cam that has the points nose and the lifters. If those parts are worn, you might do well to source new parts. The /5 and /6 engines have a mechanical tach drive you can pull the tach drive out and have a plug machined to fill the hole (That was my solution anyway.) and then run either simplex or a duplex timing chain, depending on what gears you run.

I may have forgotten something but basically, thats the swap.

This seem like a real complicated way to go nowhere, considering the ease of installing an electronic ignition but I guess points guys, are points guys....
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Hawk Medicine screwed with this post 03-31-2010 at 07:17 PM
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grider Pirate
The front of the camshaft is different. Nothing for the point mechnism to ride on with the later cam.
...and even if you could, yes, it would be immoral.
I did not know that, thanks, and the imoral part bothers me too...
I'm thinking the Alpha can may be the way, I allready carry a spare igition amp on long trips.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:45 PM   #20
CurlyMike
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yea, I have a points i a can. Just in case...
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:16 PM   #21
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I think that's the ultimate backup system, now i just gotta find one!
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:56 PM   #22
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Great write up of Rick's ignition in the March issue of the RA's magazine










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Old 03-30-2010, 09:04 PM   #23
Phreaky Phil
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Whats RA magazine. Could you post the article here. ??
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris
The problem with "high energy coils" is that they draw more current than a stock coil, which can cause excessive point burning. A hotter spark doesn't necessarily mean a hotter engine-- once you get past the optimum spark energy to ignite the fuel-air mixture hotter doesn't add anything.
Thanks, Bill.


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Old 03-31-2010, 12:02 PM   #25
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Talking

I'm not familiar with RA's magazine, can you see it online? BTW, thanks again everyone for all the help with this!
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:05 PM   #26
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Oh, I get it, BMWRA...silly me.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:21 AM   #27
Bill Harris
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One good addition to the Airhead points ignition is a Dyna Points Booster. This is an electronic device which takes the electrical switching load off of the points and is very reliable. The points still need to be checked periodically since te rubbing block wears, causing a decrease in the point gap, but the burning of points is eliminated.
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris
One good addition to the Airhead points ignition is a Dyna Points Booster. This is an electronic device which takes the electrical switching load off of the points and is very reliable. The points still need to be checked periodically since te rubbing block wears, causing a decrease in the point gap, but the burning of points is eliminated.
I think I am going to try one of these. Can anyone recommend a vendor?
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:35 AM   #29
CurlyMike
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Rocky Point had great prices on Boyers last time I saw...

http://www.rockypointcycle.com/Merch...tegory_Code=B8
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:16 AM   #30
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I suppose I should mention that a membership in the RA will get you gems like this one on a regular basis

Here is an excerpt from the review: This hasnt come out yet, (its for the April issue) so you guys are getting an inside scoop.

I've been a Motorrad Electrik fan for quite some time.
I run an Omega 400w kit and have received a few other
trick pieces of gear over time from owner and good guy
Rick to augment my airhead. What you get from him is
a nice, solid-feeling chunk of billet aluminum that mates
up nicely to the engine case. The directions are really
pretty obvious, even to a ham-fisted knuckle-buster. I
found installation to be easy, and I had all the tools on
the bike. This could easily be done by anybody with a
modicum of experience and desire to do so. It took me
about two hours start to finish, including all the lies told
and tires kicked, and there are a lot of tires in a rallye
car shop.
Well that’s all well and good, but how did it work? Its
my understanding that last year many of these were
out in the world for pre-trial testing, and that as of this
writing a few handfuls have been sold to the general
public, so there is already a small knowledge base
around it. A few different advance curves have been
programmed and tested. Rick had told me that initially
it would act cold blooded when starting, but after
about minute it would smooth out. This proved true,
and continues to. And as with any upgrade, it serves
to instantly highlight the weaker spots in the chain:
whereas I was perfectly happy with the carbs being
mildly out of synch and the valves being out, it became
irritating when the ignition began acting so digitally
smooth. I am very pleased at how smooth it makes
the bike feel. It seems like I am getting more speed for
a given RPM, especially at highway speeds. I would
liken the difference to the look of incandescent versus
LED’s, say for example in the taillight of your bike.
Incandescent bulbs have a “ramp time” to get to full
brightness, and while it is of course very short, it takes
forever compared to the electronically instantaneous
LED’s. This is similar to the feeling of electronic spark
advance versus mechanical. It produces a very solid
image at the timing light (provided of course, your
timing chain and other links are not too worn).
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