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Old 03-29-2010, 05:08 PM   #1
The Raven OP
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Talking Raven's R80g/s stupid questions thread

Hey guys,
After posting a few stupid questions like how to fix and oil sender (replace it), and why my monolever is leaking...duh its the washer I figured I would just start a thread to ask each stupid question and stop cluttering this fine forum with one liners.

For anyone else with stupid questions, feel free to hijack, we all have them, so might as well ask.

-------------------------------

Problem:The bike when revved stays revved for a short time then settles down, why the delay...the KLR just drop instantly???
My Solution: Caused by a Vacuum leak...errr me leaving the vac line on one side disconnected.... as well as a loose center cap on the Bing 32mm carb
Other solutions: sticking advance (it is mechanical), poor carb synching (many, many sub-plots in this one), sticky throttle cable(s), sticky choke cable (s), sticky choke(s), aging poorly ignition canister

-------------------------------

Problem: Oil all over the mono-lever???
Solution: Bad washer on the drain plug(s), thread seal. Shock was leaking, replace shock
Other Solutions: surface between FD and drive is seeping, replace $2 paper gasket, replace o-rings in brake housing

-------------------------------
Problem: Speedo is toast??
Solution: Send to Wirespokes, or other place to get fixed
Other solution: VDO guage, Vapor, GPS speedo, $300 new gauge.

------------------------------

Problem: Alt light does not come on with key
Solution: No continuity between slip rings (3.4ohms) bad rotor, or worn brushes.

---------------------------------

Problem: Very harsh ride with stock front shocks
Solution: Install Racetech Cartridge emulators FEGVS3301

The Raven screwed with this post 04-07-2010 at 07:09 PM
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:41 PM   #2
bgoodsoil
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could be a sticky advance. Did it do this before the work you've done?
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:43 PM   #3
SOLO LOBO
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OK, the lag in the idle drop means somthing is wacky...

It could be:
  • sticking advance (it is mechanical)
  • poor carb synching (many, many sub-plots in this one)
  • sticky throttle cable(s)
  • sticky choke cable (s)
  • sitcky choke(s)
  • aging poorly ignition cannister
Mine did it and I found that one of the carb-top metal buttons (that are pressed in) was lose... a spot of gasket cement fixed it! (this was after trying everything else!)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
could be a sticky advance. Did it do this before the work you've done?

Yes it did, thinking back.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:45 PM   #5
Cordless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
could be a sticky advance. Did it do this before the work you've done?
I can answer that one. It didn't have that lag, but it DID sit for a few years between when I had it really dialed in and now.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:45 PM   #6
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Ok so it could be caused by mis-synced carbs....I need to make some more ATF sticks to sync them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
OK, the lag in the idle drop means somthing is wacky...

It could be:
  • sticking advance (it is mechanical)
  • poor carb synching (many, many sub-plots in this one)
  • sticky throttle cable(s)
  • sticky choke cable (s)
  • sitcky choke(s)
  • aging poorly ignition cannister
Mine did it and I found that one of the carb-top metal buttons (that are pressed in) was lose... a spot of gasket cement fixed it! (this was after trying everything else!)
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #7
bgoodsoil
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I like the $4 carb sync tool.

I did the shorting method until I developed a heart murmur and this weird nervous tick from shocking myself
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:07 PM   #8
Mista Vern
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil

I did the shorting method until I developed a heart murmur and this weird nervous tick from shocking myself


I always thought of that as a cheap high.


Raven, learn to do the shorting method and you can synch your carbs anywhere, any time.

Also, a lot of time on older bikes the cables drag so check them out by disconnecting them and seeing how free they truly are.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:11 PM   #9
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Solved....see first post
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:19 PM   #10
bgoodsoil
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I keep the shorting stalks on the bike just in case. I wrapped the bottom half of one of my tire levers in splicing tape so I can use it as a shorter and not zap myself.
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:27 PM   #11
meijer's trails
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from a beginner...it's too rich

youre too rich at idle...from another noob, of course, so take it with a grain of salt
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:23 PM   #12
Renner
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next question?
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:21 PM   #13
Infracaninophile
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You've still got some Texas air stuck in the carb somewhere. You need to let it out. Your bike misses the west and won't ever run properly east of the Mississippi River. Move west.

T.
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
You've still got some Texas air stuck in the carb somewhere. You need to let it out. Your bike misses the west and won't ever run properly east of the Mississippi River. Move west.

T.
Funny, she was adopted new in Montana, moved to Idaho, then sent to NY/MA where she was ridden very little, only to be sent back out west....you might be right. Perhaps she'll get used to the nice clean maritime air of Maine and Canada in time.

I could still smell texas on her, I must give her a bath
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:23 PM   #15
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I have a cracked rear muffler mount, better to remove the rear subframe and weld it, or do it on the bike? Almost think it would be easier to just remove the rear subframe.

Fixed the kickstand today, welded on a BIG round washer, I think it matches the headlight

I need a speedo, where is a cheap place to find one...does anyone have one they want to part with?
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