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Old 10-11-2012, 10:28 AM   #6616
Link1
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bikes seems to take a lot of work

Quote:
Originally Posted by carmima View Post


My wife just knows the answer to that question but my neighbours think I'm crazy.
2 new bikes and all I do is work on them. Everytime they come outside, I'm working on one of them.
They just look and say, 'Oh, those " and give that shy sort of laugh / giggle of those ignorant to our passion

EXACTLY !!!http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif
http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/yelrotflmao.gif
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:59 PM   #6617
HDen
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Today was the first inspection at the dealer for my 990.
Suppose to be at 1,000km
I'm not supersticious lolll
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:53 PM   #6618
Brokein2
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Bought it...
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:38 PM   #6619
Skyclad
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Location: Moran Nation, confused as a baby in a topless bar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75monza View Post
I really like the 908/606 combo, but the price for a 908 can be crazy. I switched to the Scorpion Rallys F/R and couldn't be happier. I just paid about $100 for a new rear shipped. It was only $180 for both the front and the rear to my door. I don't think that the rear is as good as a 908, but for the price it is really hard to beat.

I am coming to like the Rally front better than the 606. I don't think that it works as well off road, but the way that it wears is a lot better. The 606 cupped badly on me. The Scorpion Rally front wears really evenly.
I went through a set of Scorpion Rallys...well, 1.5 sets actually. Still have some tread left on the second rear, but the front is pretty much shot.

I have MT-21's on the big girl now.

Overall, I prefer the MT-21's. They work just as well in the dirt as the Scorpion Rallys, and feel much more stable on pavement. The MT-21's are quieter as well. The only downside to the MT-21's for me is the front wear. As mentioned above, the Scorp front wears pretty evenly the whole way through about 5000 miles. The MT-21 is cupping badly at 3000 miles. Rear tires for both have provided 3000 miles, so no complaints there.

Oh, one more thing. both the MT-21's and the Scopr Rallys can handle a LOT more lean angle than any knobbie has any right to on the street. I have left only about 1/4" of chicken strips on the fronts with both kinds of tire one more than one occasion. Again, the MT-21's were more confidence inspiring, but I really did not realize just how far I was leaning with either tire until I looked at them after the twisty sections.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #6620
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Finally saved my aching back!

It's made in China so I know it's top quality!
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:43 PM   #6621
traveltoad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Finally saved my aching back!

It's made in China so I know it's top quality!
Damn that's nice!
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #6622
Skyclad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Finally saved my aching back!

It's made in China so I know it's top quality!
I have the same model lift. It has worked quite nicely for me so far. I am planning on adding a set of tie downs to the ramp end so I can use it to lift the front of the bike for burping the cooling system.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:30 PM   #6623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyclad View Post
I have the same model lift. It has worked quite nicely for me so far. I am planning on adding a set of tie downs to the ramp end so I can use it to lift the front of the bike for burping the cooling system.
Do you think I need the upgraded roll on chock?
I got that too but now that I see it, I don't know if it will be useful because of the center stand.
If the front wheel was in a chock with the center stand up, I would still need one of those dirt bike style jacks to get the rear wheel off, right?
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:47 AM   #6624
rubRsidedown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Do you think I need the upgraded roll on chock?
I got that too but now that I see it, I don't know if it will be useful because of the center stand.
If the front wheel was in a chock with the center stand up, I would still need one of those dirt bike style jacks to get the rear wheel off, right?
I usually put my bike on my lift almost ALL the way into the wheel chock and then I put it on the center stand, I THEN us the wheel chock just to be on the safe side.

I LOVE my bike lift. I use it for the bike, riding mower, push mower servicings, pressure washer oilchanges and in the winter time to service my snowmobile as well.

These things certainly are back savers.

My main reason for getting mine was to work on, repair and service my sons motoX race bike... WHAT a nice piece of equipment for doing that!!!





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rubRsidedown screwed with this post 10-13-2012 at 02:55 AM
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:52 AM   #6625
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Now that my "road-riding season" is over (no more tours till next summer) I went from this:




Dug out my SE wheels.
Put on my new wavy rotors



And got the bike ready for the dirt next weekend

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Old 10-13-2012, 02:38 PM   #6626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Finally saved my aching back!

It's made in China so I know it's top quality!
Where did you pick this up? I need one!
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:03 PM   #6627
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An idea taken from PowerCell in this post though I had done something similar with TE610 tapping and threading the EFI plate. I've had two of the KTM/Husky style petcocks fail now, and I hate not having an easy quick release that stops the fuel flow. I mean I really hate having to deal with gas pouring out, so while this is overkill it's also damn convenient.

I took off one petcock and took some measurements and drew this up. Everything is in mm.



I might adjust the 34.5mm to be a touch wider, and I did adjust the o-ring depth to 1.2mm. The test prototype with the stock o-ring and a plug has been holding fuel just fine.

The part I ordered to work for this was from quick couplings LCD10004V - 1/4 NPT Valved Coupling Body w/ Viton seal and the matching part quick coupling LCD23004V - 1/4 Hose Barb Valved Elbow Coupling Insert w/Viton seals and they had the best prices I found anywhere. To give you an idea, fast by feracci sells the same parts for $29 each......

These are what I came up with using some aluminum and borrowing a friends older mill with homebrew DRO, and small lathe.



The parts



Putting one together, wouldn't want to do it while on the tank so I lugged it down with drywall screws to the benchtop.



Installed right side. It's tight but I'll likely reroute the fuel line later. There's about two inches to the header.



Installed left side. I tried it without the street 90 first and I feel it's just too exposed and could take a hit with a left side tipover/crash. Added the 90 and every thing looks good. Again, I'll likely reroute the fuel line and or change the 90 half of the quick connect to a straight. On that note I had thought to do the same with the neduro auxiliary tank and it will hang too low and be exposed so I'll skip it. It's not like you actually need to do anything with that fuel line. There's a 2 in1 out petcock available from honda for $33 that will allow for selecting which tank being used on order so the quick release isn't really needed there.



In either case if the fuel like seems like it is too close to the header I'll get some Fuel Line Heat Shield

And since I was doing this with the SE I went ahead and did the same thing for the crossovers on the TE610.

While I had the tank off I had been meaning to change out the carb cap screws. Last time I had set the needle a couple stripped out so I put these in.



Between the CPR air filter and the quick connects for the fuel, stripping down the SE for jetting or valves is quick and painless now.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:29 PM   #6628
Skyclad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpion View Post
Do you think I need the upgraded roll on chock?
I got that too but now that I see it, I don't know if it will be useful because of the center stand.
If the front wheel was in a chock with the center stand up, I would still need one of those dirt bike style jacks to get the rear wheel off, right?
I use the chock, barely.

I moved the tie downs to the very front of the deck. I get the straps laid out before I push the bike onto the lift, and have the chock opened. I push the bike up until the wheel hits the stop, tighten the chock a bit with my foot, then strap the bike down. Same thing regardless of which direction the bike is facing. The chock really does not do much to keep the bike upright, just centered on the lift.

To pick up one end, I use an old scissors style jack either under the center stand cross bar for the rear, or with a chunk of 2x4 under the skid plate for the front. The 2x4 is needed to give enough lift to get the front wheel off the deck.

Personally, I would not lift the bike at all without having it strapped to the deck.

Patrol, the lift is a Harbor Freight brand. Plenty strong enough for most bikes, has a rebuildable pump and costs about $600. I got mine on sale for half that (and it looks like that deal is currently available).
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:30 PM   #6629
Ktmripper
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Saved my butt

Got a Corbin seat for the 525 exc. Now the long rides may not hurt the backside so much.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:35 PM   #6630
LoFlow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle View Post



These are what I came up with using some aluminum and borrowing a friends older mill with homebrew DRO, and small lathe.



Excellent work!
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