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Old 12-28-2012, 05:52 PM   #7006
HeatXfer
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Replaced the stock water pump shaft & seal with CJ's hardened kit.

Question: Does this look like this bike has been cared for? (sorry, can't re-size this in Photobucket)

Bearings were rusty and loose in the races - the impeller moved side to side approx 45 thousandths!
The seal face was melted into the back of the impeller

I hate to think how long this was ridden with a 50/50 oil/water mix
Any idea how many oil changes it's going to take to get all the goo out of the engine?

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Old 12-28-2012, 06:46 PM   #7007
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I'd say that is above normal wear, however, if it was not leaking into the engine excessively... then ? The seal wearing into the back of the impeller is a usual thing, the bearings tend to run sloppy, so if they had ~20k miles on them, then I'd say wear/slop is normal

I'd run Shell Rotella T 15/40 with a fresh main filter for about 500-600 miles, change it the oil, run another 500-600, drop the oil/filters then go back to your choice of oil/change intervals
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:14 PM   #7008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
I'd say that is above normal wear, however, if it was not leaking into the engine excessively... then ? The seal wearing into the back of the impeller is a usual thing, the bearings tend to run sloppy, so if they had ~20k miles on them, then I'd say wear/slop is normal

I'd run Shell Rotella T 15/40 with a fresh main filter for about 500-600 miles, change it the oil, run another 500-600, drop the oil/filters then go back to your choice of oil/change intervals

Thank you. It was leaking quite a bit: more water poured out of the drain & screen access than oil. I'll see if I can get the Rotella locally here and get a few paper filters. Seriously looking at the Scotts filter.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #7009
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Walmart usually has it in stock

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Old 12-28-2012, 07:20 PM   #7010
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If you did not replace the bearings, i suggest that you do so... assuming you did considering slop factors/wear/rust

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Old 12-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #7011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post

I'd run Shell Rotella T 15/40 with a fresh main filter for about 500-600 miles, change it the oil, run another 500-600, drop the oil/filters then go back to your choice of oil/change intervals
+1

This is exactly what I am doing with mine at the moment! Rotella is a high detergent oil, works wonders on internals!
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:51 PM   #7012
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Originally Posted by HeatXfer View Post
Thank you. It was leaking quite a bit: more water poured out of the drain & screen access than oil. I'll see if I can get the Rotella locally here and get a few paper filters. Seriously looking at the Scotts filter.
I got the Scott's stainless filter, like it, no problems, but I'd stick to the paper filters till you get the water worked out.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:03 PM   #7013
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I did replace the bearings - they were included in the CJD kit. I won't buy anything from Walmart as a matter of principal, but O'Reilly's Auto Parts carries it.

Thanks again.

Oh, Sorry for the thread jack

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Old 12-28-2012, 10:05 PM   #7014
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the paper filter is an early indicator of a leaking seal. Unless you have the CJ Clear cover I would stick with it. It also filters finer particulates than the stainless screen
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:16 AM   #7015
reigele
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Installed my selfmade Seat

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qvjbxj1u2d...826%5B1%5D.jpg
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:42 PM   #7016
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After six months and 14,7XXX miles, my bike started bogging at WOT above 5k rpm's on lowish fuel levels. Interesting to note is that the bike only saw dodgy fuel a few times in it's short lifespan, and has never been run (always more than .5 gallon left on fill-up) empty.

Ordered up replacement fuel filters and o-rings, and will be replacing those as soon as they arrive. Time to do some research on alternate fuel pumps/filters. I can't see replacing these every few months.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:43 PM   #7017
cyborg
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Finally, finally got around to finishing installing my new/rebuilt 990 engine this weekend, servicing all the things a bike at 40K miles that has had a fairly hard life needs (Blackrock desert dust storms for weeks, Bonneville Salt flats for days, Nevada sand and silt roads, lots of mud, endless rainstorms and road grime). Chaffed wires, seals changed and bearings to grease and/or replace, etc. Basically serviced the entire bike while I had it torn completely apart. Almost a new bike except for chipped paint in places.

Gave it a new set of Samco silicone hoses while I was at it.




Took for it's first ride in 3 months! Runs strong.

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Old 12-30-2012, 09:45 PM   #7018
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new Gobi set for Christmas !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Is that a nail in your rear tyre?
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:36 PM   #7019
Vicks
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Gave it a new set of Samco silicone hoses while I was at it.

Man, thats is one clean install. and HOW IN HELL IS YOUR ENGINE SO CLEAN ????

mine is quite shabby in comparison and leaks at a few joints.


Did you pre-assemble the hoses and then wiggle the entire assembly into place ? Mine used to lead at the thermostat housing and after i replaced the clamp, its now leaking at the cross-over joint (between the bores)
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:55 PM   #7020
Vicks
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I've been concerned about the not so tight FMF can in the hanger which can lead to a cracked rear header pipe and took care of it. Cut a few strips of rubber and added them into the hanger so that the can stays put and fully supported by it.






Had a leak from the SAMCO hose at the thermostat.




which was due to a mangled, cheap hose clamp


replaced the el-cheapo hose clamp with a Jubilee one.



saw this and got concerned that i might have a head/bore gasket leakage



then i realised that it was due to the small coolant leak from the hose bridging the two bores.

This one will have to wait untill i do my next valve check cos the airbox has to come off.



saw this on my head-stock

and now i'm thinking :
1. KTM does stamp the VIN on the head-stock but its covered by the factory paint. Unlike what i had read/understood that its only in the form of a sticker on the frame.
2. I dont remember ever seeing it in the last 4 years, obviously because it was under the paint.
3. I recently shifted my bike from Saudi to UAE and i'm guessing that the customs/border guys might have scraped the paint on the headstock to check for VIN because thats where all bikes have it. This inspite of me putting a big note on the bike showing the location of the sticker on the frame for when they needed to check the VIN.
4. I'm now concerned that the next time i go for the yearly vehicle check/test, they will look at the head stock, find the scraped paint and some numbers under it and then cause me undue trouble.
5. Any thing i do now (including trying to repair the scraping by repainting over it OR repainting the whole chassis) will cause more problems so i'm thinking i'll remove the paint from the exact area showing the VIN, cover it with some clear varnish. This will show the VIN (vehicle test/check guys are happy) as well as protect the bare metal underneath (i'm happy). Win-Win situation !!
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