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Old 02-24-2014, 11:44 AM   #9271
mroddis
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In trying to fix a tweaked fender, spent some time looking around the front. Rerouted the speed pickup thingmajiggy as it didn't look quite like in the repair manual.

Anyone have a close up pic of the routing of the brake hose guide (the little metal thingy) that hold the brake line? I've seen a few variations. (for a 950 Adv)

Also, while there, I replaced the front brake pads and now the pads won't spread enough to get the wheel back on - more investigative work tonight….I'm going to open up the reservoir then use a helping chisel to get the pads to spread further.

At the very least, I'm getting more and more familiar with the bike each week….

M.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:00 PM   #9272
JoeMongo
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remove some fluid first

Take half the fluid out of the master reservoir, find something thinner than the current gap (NOT smaller than the surface area of the brake pad, no screwdrivers or chisels or anything else smaller than the surface of the friction material), and rock it sideways to spread the caliper cylinders. I try to remember to do so with the disk whenever I remove a caliper from the fork leg.

Top up the fluid afterwards if required, or better yet empty the master reservoir at the start of the job, flush and fill at the finish. This is an easy and good time to flush the brakes, unless you just did it.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:02 PM   #9273
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:30 PM   #9274
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd View Post
so I can turn of the relay (and the lights) when I want to use all the battery's juice for cranking and then turn lights and relay on when the bike is running.
Most bikes (your 990 included) have a relay which cuts the power to lights, etc., when cranking.
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:39 PM   #9275
mroddis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMongo View Post
Take half the fluid out of the master reservoir, find something thinner than the current gap (NOT smaller than the surface area of the brake pad, no screwdrivers or chisels or anything else smaller than the surface of the friction material), and rock it sideways to spread the caliper cylinders. I try to remember to do so with the disk whenever I remove a caliper from the fork leg.

Top up the fluid afterwards if required, or better yet empty the master reservoir at the start of the job, flush and fill at the finish. This is an easy and good time to flush the brakes, unless you just did it.
Great - thanks for the advice. Will try it tonight or tomorrow.
Still blown away by the amount of help on this site.

Greatly appreciated.

M.
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:47 PM   #9276
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Originally Posted by JoeMongo View Post
(NOT smaller than the surface area of the brake pad, no screwdrivers or chisels or anything else smaller than the surface of the friction material), .
This is excellent advice, and I agree 100%. This is the correct way to do it.

And I use a screwdriver, tire spoon, open end wrench, whatever I have handy.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:41 PM   #9277
JoeMongo
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeName View Post
This is excellent advice, and I agree 100%. This is the correct way to do it.

And I use a screwdriver, tire spoon, open end wrench, whatever I have handy.

Yeah, I know. So have I.

Its amazing how soft some brake pads are though. I've put brand new pads into service with huge holes dug out of them by my screwdriver. I try not to repeat that, again, for the n+1'th time.
J.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:47 AM   #9278
Shov3BR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeMongo View Post
Yeah, I know. So have I.

Its amazing how soft some brake pads are though. I've put brand new pads into service with huge holes dug out of them by my screwdriver. I try not to repeat that, again, for the n+1'th time.
J.
I use one of those wooden paint stirrer sticks. It is just a bit thinner than the rotor and has enough length to give leverage for pressing the pistons back into the caliper. I know when I'm using too much force - the stick breaks. Also, they are so light that they don't fall out from their own weight so I can leave it in place while I'm working on stuff.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:10 AM   #9279
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Originally Posted by Shov3BR View Post
I know when I'm using too much force - the stick breaks.
Oh, let's fancy it up and say,

"The stick is sacrificial, and clicks at the preset level of force."
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:13 PM   #9280
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Made this licence plate holder for my new Baja today.


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Old 02-25-2014, 12:20 PM   #9281
Black Hills
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very nice
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:16 PM   #9282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FakeName View Post
This is excellent advice, and I agree 100%. This is the correct way to do it.

And I use a screwdriver, tire spoon, open end wrench, whatever I have handy.
A small c-clamp and the old brake pads work wonders to push back the pistons. No chance of damaging the new pads.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:03 PM   #9283
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Friends

I brought my pumpkins a redheaded step-child. It's street legal too!

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Old 02-25-2014, 10:04 PM   #9284
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Originally Posted by armourbl View Post
It went on as easy as the stock unit. Quite possibly the easiest farkle to put on this bike.
Lol... It's not a Beemer. No farkles, ;)
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:20 AM   #9285
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Made this licence plate holder for my new Baja today.


I like !
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