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Old 03-18-2014, 07:02 AM   #9406
JRod152
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: KC, KS... flat&boringville
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I rigged up a new windscreen with my new LED lights from Cyclops. Here is the thread in vendors on Darryl's lights... baller

Gone is the worthless OEM headlight. I elminated the OEM instrument cluster and am running a Trail Tech Striker. I also tossed the factory key switch w/ steering lock (which has to weigh 2 lbs. ) & put a Sicass Racing key switch in it's place. I think it's much cleaner now. These mods worked great with the HDB hand guards & the accessories that Paul offers for them.

I wanted to have a windscreen that gave some decent protection for cold weather riding & long trips. However, I didn't want it to be cumbersome or hard to remove for local trail riding, etc. I purchased a used Slipstreamer Spitfire w/ mounting hardware off of eBay for $35. The mounting hardware kit size / part # doesn't matter since you wont use the handlebar clamps... just the mounting cones on the windscreen.

With som RAM accessories (1" threaded femal socket balls, 1" offset mount balls, 3" arms), I rigged up a quick release and moderately adjustable windscreen. It comes off very easy and mounts solid. When unmoutned, you only see the 2 RAM balls on the handguards. (How many times can I say "Ram Balls" in a paragraph!)

Once I decide on the final position, I'll use zip ties or Dzus fasteners with some fuel hose as a protector to secure the bottom of the windscreen.

Check it out...























I think it will work! The screen will most likely work best at roughly the same angle of the front forks, but I'll play with it a bit and see.

Cheers!
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:08 AM   #9407
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I overfilled and pumped the bubbles out. The cheapie Motion Pro tool works for setting the height. The marks are a little hard for old eyes to read and the stop ring won't fit over the spring guide but I just used some tape at the mark. Worked fine.
On old school forks I just measure the fluid with a graduated cylinder.


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Old 03-18-2014, 07:17 AM   #9408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRod152 View Post

Yep.

I like where this is headed.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:12 AM   #9409
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Burping my Baby



After a waterpump seal update, flush, adding some delicious Engine Ice, Samco Silly hoses, I commenced to burp the baby.
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:04 PM   #9410
DirtyADV
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Location: SWEDEN, Skellefteå
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post

After a waterpump seal update, flush, adding some delicious Engine Ice, Samco Silly hoses, I commenced to burp the baby.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan1 View Post
That is how I did mine as well. The straps might have helped.

When will you learn? A couple of wheelies after having drained the coolant is the proper way to burp any LC8 engine!

=)

/Johan
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:17 PM   #9411
juames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABuck99 View Post

After a waterpump seal update, flush, adding some delicious Engine Ice, Samco Silly hoses, I commenced to burp the baby.
Is that really necessary? I have to to do mine soon.
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:39 PM   #9412
DeepSea
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Tubeless

Inspected my $8 tubeless rim job and mounted new rubber.

This is after about 1k miles. It doesn't leak and the tape is firmly in place.
I felt comfortable enough to put on a new tire on.




Got to say installing that Heidenau without a tube made it all worth the effort.

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Old 03-18-2014, 03:01 PM   #9413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSea View Post
Inspected my $8 tubeless rim job and mounted new rubber.

This is after about 1k miles. It doesn't leak and the tape is firmly in place.
I felt comfortable enough to put on a new tire on.




Got to say installing that Heidenau without a tube made it all worth the effort.

Duct tape? Can you do that?
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:02 PM   #9414
juames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan1 View Post
If you are referring to the "burping". It does call for it in the manual. Many don't bother, or have their own way of removing any trapped air (Wheelie, etc). after filling I use the bleed screw on the top of the water-pump housing and also the one on top of the rad (opposite from the cap) to remove trapped air.
Right...thanks!
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:22 PM   #9415
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Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
Duct tape? Can you do that?
It's the silicone glue in the spoke nipples that do the sealing. I'm not sure that gorilla tape is doing much sealing. But... if I need to install a tube. Say for a hole I can't plug. Or I get a leak thru the spokes. The tape will work as a rim protector.

It didn't take all that long. About an hours worth of work, then letting it sit overnight.

First I made sure my spokes were tight. Then cleaned everything really well. Wire brushed and degreased. Put the wheel up on a stand and went around to each nipple. Injecting silicone adhesive with a caulking gun. While it was still wet I wrapped it with the gorilla tape. Squeegeed it out down (as best I could). Then cut the hole for a valve stem. I tried to make sure I ended the tape somewhat near the valve stem hole. Doing my research on this I kept hearing about the tape just coming up. My thinking is the valve stem will hold it down. So far so good. I surely wouldn't use fix a flat or slime in it. Can't imagine the tape or silicone would like that.

If it shits the bed, I'll post back on here with the results. But for now, I'm pleased with it.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:36 PM   #9416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSea View Post
It's the silicone glue in the spoke nipples that do the sealing. I'm not sure that gorilla tape is doing much sealing. But... if I need to install a tube. Say for a hole I can't plug. Or I get a leak thru the spokes. The tape will work as a rim protector.

It didn't take all that long. About an hours worth of work, then letting it sit overnight.

First I made sure my spokes were tight. Then cleaned everything really well. Wire brushed and degreased. Put the wheel up on a stand and went around to each nipple. Injecting silicone adhesive with a caulking gun. While it was still wet I wrapped it with the gorilla tape. Squeegeed it out down (as best I could). Then cut the hole for a valve stem. I tried to make sure I ended the tape somewhat near the valve stem hole. Doing my research on this I kept hearing about the tape just coming up. My thinking is the valve stem will hold it down. So far so good. I surely wouldn't use fix a flat or slime in it. Can't imagine the tape or silicone would like that.

If it shits the bed, I'll post back on here with the results. But for now, I'm pleased with it.
Silicon has poor adhesion properties. Plus sealing the rim this way makes it hard to fix on the road or locate a leak.

This is a much better method (just as cheap , takes longer though) <--- (Not my idea, I just used this method)

http://cyb.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/K...9444&k=BjwM3St

I've done it on my 990 and 1 other bike no problem so far 25k miles combined.

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Old 03-18-2014, 04:54 PM   #9417
kag
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I rode it


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Old 03-18-2014, 05:01 PM   #9418
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Took her in for a valve check.



Eliminated the rear ABS
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:38 PM   #9419
DeepSea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650 View Post
Silicon has poor adhesion properties. Plus sealing the rim this way makes it hard to fix on the road or locate a leak.

This is a much better method (just as cheap , takes longer though) <--- (Not my idea, I just used this method)

http://cyb.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/K...9444&k=BjwM3St

I've done it on my 990 and 1 other bike no problem so far 25k miles combined.


Does that dry hard like crazy glue?

When/if my silicone fails, I'll give it a shot. Got to say I'm hooked on having it tubeless.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:11 PM   #9420
keener
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSea View Post
Does that dry hard like crazy glue?

When/if my silicone fails, I'll give it a shot. Got to say I'm hooked on having it tubeless.
What if you need to adjust the spokes later on?
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