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Old 04-01-2014, 01:16 AM   #9526
Eataz
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Sweden, In the middle
Oddometer: 49
Mounted this!



Cred to DirtyADV http://www.advrider.com/forums/member.php?u=47423 for his guide! Helped alot.
http://www.dirtyadv.com/cpr-trio-installation/
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:12 PM   #9527
outbacktaz
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: 6 minutes away from a KTM dealer! Total bliss!!
Oddometer: 516
Quote:
Originally Posted by armourbl View Post
It is now in the HOW. http://ktm950.info/how/Farkels/adven...protector.html

I'm famous now I guess....LOL

ben

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Old 04-01-2014, 08:00 PM   #9528
GrenDesb
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Québec
Oddometer: 310
I burped it.

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Old 04-01-2014, 08:08 PM   #9529
GrenDesb
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Québec
Oddometer: 310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayjet View Post
I finally did the did the valve job I have been putting off for waaaay too long. My 990 has 22,500 miles on it, and that was its first valve job. I know, I know, I'm a bad person, terrible guy, lax mechanic, etc. The HOW was pretty good, but it still took me all weekend to get it done.

The intakes were all in spec, but the exhausts were all totally out of spec. I've read that intakes tend to get tighter, and exhausts looser over time, but that was not the case with mine. All of the exhaust valve gaps measured out to about 0.15 mm. Spec is 0.25 - 0.30 mm.

So is that weird?

I went with Harley V-Rod shims, since they were in stock nearby. I was frustrated to find that none of the 12 shims I bought measured out to what was printed on them.

Is that normal, or did I just happen upon a bad batch?

I was still able to get the valves in spec, though. She fired right up, and all is well with the world, now. Well, except that I think I have some excessive cam chain clatter, but that is a problem that will have to wait for another day!

Ride on!
Lance
I've had exhaust being too tight and intake being too loose. I suspect the last people that did my valves were probably not the best mecanics.

I'd just keep an eye on them next winter or in 10 000 miles.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:02 PM   #9530
Dan Diego
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 660
Got home from work early so tore off the headlight set-up and front plastics to install a Fuze Blocks FZ-1.

My ADD kicked so I installed a BMW plug up front and added a battery tender SAE pigtail while I was in there. Fabbed a mount for the RAM mount for my Zumo.

Everything was going great. Man, that aux fuse block fits in there so nicely.

Until I tried to put the headlight assembly back in there. Dang! Both won't fit.

OK, we're hosting a big family dinner so I covered it all up and will finish it tomorrow.


Hmmmm....that underseat battery relo mod looks easy...
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:10 AM   #9531
Black Hills
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Western South Dakota
Oddometer: 1,076
Quote:
Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
Continue to work on your suspension, you're close. You'd have to start from zero if you went to S or R suspension, I'm almost sure that the valving is the same on all variants of the forks. Are you bottoming out the shock as well as the forks? I'd probably start with the simple thing, add some oil to the forks.

Also, keep in mind that you should be bottoming out the suspension occasionally. Otherwise you're not getting your money's worth out of the suspension travel. I reset o-ring fork travel indicators pretty often. I don't want to bottom out riding baby head rocks, but I do want to use all the travel if I'm riding up or down ledges or steep downhill with ruts and rocks. The motocrossers say that you should bottom out once per lap if your suspension is set up correctly, so use that as a guide.

there are limits based on total travel. you can only do so much, that is why modern dirt bikes have 12" of travel instead of 4". add that fact that the Adventure weighs twice as much as a dirt bike and you may have to adjust your expectations.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:29 AM   #9532
tocou
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: La Tuque, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 77
Huge clean up and diassemble...!

Here's what I did yesterday:









I will do the following items in the next few days:

- Oil change
- 2 into 1 Akrapovic exhaust
- SW7 air intake
- CPR Snap Out
- Homemade storage box near air intake
- Fuel tank on the left side where the OEM exhaust was
- SAS removal and Canisterectomy
- Aux lights
- Sidestand relocator
- Risers
- Stiffer front fork springs
- Wire verification + dielectric grease
- Tune ECU map change
- Complete clean-up

The bike has 5800 miles (9330 km). It's a 2011 Dakar Edition. Should I do a valve check, anything else while I'm at it ???
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #9533
PS-RagE
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Northern Ontario
Oddometer: 600
Well, I finally scheduled a date to fetch the new 1190R.

My 950 will be moving along to its new home But, it'll be with my best friend so I'll still have visitation
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:25 AM   #9534
JoeMongo
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: SF Bay Area, not exactly dirt moto heaven
Oddometer: 399
Quote:
Originally Posted by tocou View Post
The bike has 5800 miles (9330 km). It's a 2011 Dakar Edition. Should I do a valve check, anything else while I'm at it ???

Since 90 percent of the effort in checking the valves is what you have already done, you might as well do the last little bit of work and at least measure them so you know where you are at.

That said, when I did my first valve check at 10K miles I had three loose exhaust valves. That wasn't really what I expected but although they were close and I could have left them alone, I changed three shims.

All my intakes were right where they should be.

It's nice to have a record of where the valves are now, so later you can figure out if things are changing, or not.
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:37 PM   #9535
4corners14
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 635
Just one suggestion.....

....anytime I have the bike in this configuration with the rear wheel off....I run a tie down through the front wheel and attach the hooks to the cross bar on the center stand. Then if someone nudges it, you won't be trying to figure out how to pick it up. Mine is tied up at the moment just as I suggested here. KTM S&M....





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Old 04-02-2014, 06:27 PM   #9536
dogsslober
No neck tie, Ti neck
 
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Morgan Hill Ca
Oddometer: 796
Bathed it

For its 30,000 mile Birthday
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:49 PM   #9537
JRod152
will work for tires
 
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: KC, KS... flat&boringville
Oddometer: 248
...For its 30,000 mile Birthday...

Nice ride!
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:18 PM   #9538
4corners14
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 635
Tried to get this *#@$%^& bolt out.....

any suggestions on how to break this axle adjustment bolt loose?



I tried to heat it up.....it's rounding off the nut and it won't turn either direction. SUGGESTIONS?
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:46 PM   #9539
JRod152
will work for tires
 
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: KC, KS... flat&boringville
Oddometer: 248
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4corners14 View Post
I tried to heat it up.....it's rounding off the nut and it won't turn either direction. SUGGESTIONS?
...a good whack w/ a hammer & punch to break the corrosion free... then back it out w/ a cordless impact gun.

then, some anti-sieze & drain hole drillin' are in your future.
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:57 PM   #9540
4corners14
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Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 635
I figured it out.....Thanks for the suggestions

Inside the axle housing there's a c-clip holding the bolt to the slide....once I got the c-clip off the slide pulled off the bolt and I could get a socket on the nut. It was very tight but I eventually got it to back out. I'll tap and die the set and use some anti-seize this time!



Quote:
Originally Posted by 4corners14 View Post
any suggestions on how to break this axle adjustment bolt loose?



I tried to heat it up.....it's rounding off the nut and it won't turn either direction. SUGGESTIONS?
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