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Old 04-18-2010, 08:41 PM   #16
243Win
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This is great info, I'm going to give Jesse a call tomorrow and set this up!

Thanks for a great and very informative write up!
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:47 AM   #17
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Great writeup and documentation, FatChance. Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeMan
Great writeup and documentation, FatChance. Thanks!
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:09 AM   #19
jna
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Swing Arm Chain Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance
I press it in the groove with pliers and pop it off with a screwdriver. Very simple system that works well.


BTW, the pictures were shot in a different sequence than presented and I am aware in the final picture that the circlip is not in place, but it was properly installed when I was done...
Did you have to modify the chain guide to keep the chain from rubbing?
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:36 PM   #20
Adv Grifter
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Love to hear how this works out in the mountains. I was curious where you sourced the 48T rear sprocket, Jesse carries only a 45T. That BIKEMASTTER Chain looks pretty robust, wonder how long it will last?

Do you anticipate any rubbing issues with either the chain guide or rubber swing arm bumper?

I use this to cut the chain. No grinding needed, just push out the pins. Also, I thought you would go into Peening technique some, as a lot of guys screw this up doing a Rivet link, either making it too loose (dirt/water enters) or too tight (kink). For me using the RK tool, I had to go slow so as not to ruin an $8 Rivet link.

Man, with that gearing your DR should climb like a Goat. I've struggled by with stock gearing or a 14T up front. (not good enough) Luckily my bike carburates so well and Throttle response is do good I rarely have to slip the clutch on trails. It pulls OK from the basement.

Let us know how it rides with the lower gearing. I'm coming up on 25K miles on my DID VM-2 chain, new one in the wings so looking at sprocket options also. Have a great Summer. I've done 4000 miles since December '09, between three bikes.
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter
Love to hear how this works out in the mountains.
It works out very well. I still use the 15/48 for just about everything (same as my old 14/45 favorite). It pulls very well and tops out in the low 90's mph range but will still cruise at 70 pretty easily. The 14/48 is just a joy for offroading.

Quote:
I was curious where you sourced the 48T rear sprocket, Jesse carries only a 45T.
I got it from Jesse. It is not listed on his web page, but he had one when I called.

Quote:
Do you anticipate any rubbing issues with either the chain guide or rubber swing arm bumper?
No problems experienced to date.

Quote:
I thought you would go into Peening technique some, as a lot of guys screw this up doing a Rivet link, either making it too loose (dirt/water enters) or too tight (kink). For me using the RK tool, I had to go slow so as not to ruin an $8 Rivet link.
The Bikemaster chain came with some spacers to use while peening the rivet link so it would peen with the proper pressure on the O rings.
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Old 08-06-2010, 09:42 AM   #22
996DL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

I use this to cut the chain. No grinding needed, just push out the pins. Also, I thought you would go into Peening technique some, as a lot of guys screw this up doing a Rivet link, either making it too loose (dirt/water enters) or too tight (kink). For me using the RK tool, I had to go slow so as not to ruin an $8 Rivet link.

I would suggest always grinding off the peened head, on new and replacement chains. On the worn out chain, it's less stress/wear on the chain tool and importantly on the new chain, it doesn't damage the interior of the bushing, as the discarded chain link passes through unscathed...

996DL
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:26 AM   #23
Flashman1
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I did somewhat the same for my previous DRZ400. I figured out a combo that allowed me to run 4 counter sprockets 13,14,15,16 with the same chain.

Still constantly changing the CS is pain - especially on the road - so I fixed it by selling the DRZ and getting a TE610 - wonderful wide range 6 speed.
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:49 AM   #24
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996DL
I would suggest always grinding off the peened head, on new and replacement chains. On the worn out chain, it's less stress/wear on the chain tool and importantly on the new chain, it doesn't damage the interior of the bushing, as the discarded chain link passes through unscathed...

996DL
Are there "Peened links" on a new chain? I thought peened links were only where the rivet is. All other links have been ground smooth during manufacturing, no?
Are you talking about buying an OEM continuous chain? I never do this, I buy a DID chain and cut it to length.

But I think I understand what you're getting at ... good point. The old chain tool shown is over 20 years old, been banging around in my tool box a long time. It pushes out link pins easy peasy on any chain. 30 seconds.

It's actually fairly precise and the tool is smaller diameter than the pin so does not beat up the inner bushing as the pin is forced through. Pretty neat actually.

But your point about damaging the inner bush or O ring is good. Never thought about that.

On a new chain I cut it to length. I discard O rings from the cut link and use the NEW O rings and grease supplied with the Rivet link kit. Join the two ends together with new rivet link, all good.

So far, in about 150,000 miles of doing this on several bikes using mostly DID VM X ring chains, no chain problems and no premature wear on rivet link.

Grinding a pin off generates quite a bit of heat, no? Could the heat treatment of that link or inner bush be lost?
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Old 08-06-2010, 08:56 PM   #25
996DL
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I just like to baby a new chain and will always take the time to grind flush the staked head, rather than driving it through with a premium chain tool. The sizes we're dealing with offroad chains probably minimizes the risks, but I applied the same logic to the 530 upgrade, I installed on my DL1000.

It was interesting to note the spacers, FatChance had included with his new chain, to limit the compression on the o-rings when peening the joining link. With the price of good chains these days, I'd like to see all manufacturers adopt this practice !

996DL
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Old 09-28-2010, 11:03 AM   #26
WilderRider
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Just thought I would comment again that I am reviewing this thread in changing my gearing right now. Going to a 14/46 (offroad) with a 16t for getting there on the highways. I am also converting over to a 520 chain on the DR650. All parts through Procycle.

Thanks again for the write-up.
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