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04-24-2010, 07:32 PM
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#1 |
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WhoUB?
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: NW PA
Oddometer: 307
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Unbleedable rear brake on 990 (ABS)??
My rear brake on my 07 990 Adventure w/ ABS is driving me (more) crazy and I could use some help! Had next to no rear brake so I tried to bleed--no luck. Rebuilt the rear master cylinder and bled (conventionally)--no luck. Just tried the Mity Vac--no luck. Still have air in the system (continue to produce bubbles when bleeding conventionally).
I think I have an air leak somewhere and I keep pumping air back into the system. If the brake light switch has failed, would this allow air to enter? My brake light isn't working but I'm not sure if this is just due to lack of pressure at the switch. Anything else I should check?? Thanks!! |
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04-24-2010, 08:58 PM
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#2 |
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KOTW 2010 Finisher
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Where the hell is Truckee, CA?
Oddometer: 3,038
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Your brake light switch is NOT a pressure switch. If the switchisn't working than I would start by assuming that it has failed and is introducing air into the system.
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Brents347 Truckee, CA. 07 Yamaha R6 07 KTM 950 Super Enduro 04 KTM 250exc- plated two-stroke |
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04-24-2010, 09:04 PM
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#3 |
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Louder is always better
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Christchurch, NZ
Oddometer: 66
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I had the same issue with my 950, later found out I had to push the caliper in on the pins to get all the air out, there was a pdf of the service manual showing how to do it, after that it was great and never went away again.
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In the words of Juan-Manuel Fangio "Brakes they only slow you down" |
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04-24-2010, 09:24 PM
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#4 |
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Lefty tighty.
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Gone
Oddometer: 6,413
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You can find the correct bleeding procedure as part of the recall notice for the 950s, here.
brents347: I'm pretty certain that switch is pressure operated (not sure exactly what you mean by "pressure switch" though). |
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04-24-2010, 09:37 PM
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#5 |
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I need supervision
Joined: May 2007
Location: Kelowna, BC. CND
Oddometer: 1,050
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You could also try using a large syringe (70-100cc aval at a vet supply store) to back bleed the system from the caliper, fill syringe with fluid, purge air from it and hose, connect to bleed nipple, and push the fluid to the master. On the bikes with ABS, the HCU sits at the highest point in the system, which can make bleeding it difficult. you can also try cracking the line loose (the one to the caliper) at the HCU and bleeding there first. then do the caliper.
Earl |
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04-25-2010, 01:44 PM
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#6 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: NorCal
Oddometer: 441
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Quote:
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07 950 SE 05 RMZ 450 08 R1200RTP 05 CRF 80 06 TTR 50 |
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04-26-2010, 02:02 PM
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#7 |
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WhoUB?
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: NW PA
Oddometer: 307
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Thanks for the ideas guys. FYI- I LOVE the ABS. It's this bleeding issue (which was also a problem on the non-ABS 950s) that I could do without!
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05-18-2012, 01:56 AM
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#8 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Moscow, Russia
Oddometer: 301
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So does anyone have a 100% effective procedure to bleed ABS, or bleeding, riding with ABS in dirt, bleeding again and then rifing with ABS working and so on till you give up or the brakes become responsive?
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