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Old 04-29-2010, 06:30 AM   #31
klatelm
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thanks for all the info to all. i have an 03 525. when you had the rear wheel off, was there any play at the shock where it mounts to the swing arm. i was told this was normal and still have a hard time believing it.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:58 AM   #32
nevada72 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoMike
Been a while since I visited Thumpers. Just wandering by and saw this. Congrats, you are going to love this bike.

Also, when you adjust the chain, once you are done, take the shock off and stroke the rear wheel through, I bet you will find that it's too tight. The tightest point is probably 4 or 5 inches from being bottomed out, so the finger test, even with someone sitting on the bike doesn't tell the truth.

When the chain is adjusted properly, it will look real loose when the bike is parked or on a stand, but that's just the way it is.
That's great info! I wonder if it would be wise to set the chain with the shock off and the swingarm all the way up? Maybe at least for the 1st time to get a baseline for what it should be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by klatelm
when you had the rear wheel off, was there any play at the shock where it mounts to the swing arm. i was told this was normal and still have a hard time believing it.
YES! I was wondering that too. I double checked the parts manual which has that nice exploded diagram. There is nothing but shock and bolt, so we're not missing anything. I figured there must be a Delrin washer or something - not so.
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:58 AM   #33
MotoMike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
That's great info! I wonder if it would be wise to set the chain with the shock off and the swingarm all the way up? Maybe at least for the 1st time to get a baseline for what it should be.
Thats what I do. Milk crate and blocks of wood, mess with it until you find the tightest spot.
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:35 AM   #34
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Current wisdom is that the 45 tooth sprocket is another KTM compromise to meet EPA noise standards. I'm told the bike "comes alive" when one ditches that in favor of a 48 or 50 tooth sprocket. Here you can see the difference, worn stocker on top and new biggy underneath. KTM is out of stock on these at the moment, so I bought one by "Primary Drive" from Rocky Mtn ATV. Apparently reviews are positive. We'll see -



I'm also told that torquey bikes like the 525 eat aluminium. As such, I chose steel. You can see that the original is done after 2k miles.



As a medical equipment installation contractor, I have learned that aluminum does not like steel. Add some H2O and it speeds up the process. Often times manufacturers will coat (anodize or otherwise) the aluminum and/or steel to make the two get along better, but it's only a band-aid and temporary usually. I coat the dissimilar metals with anti-corrosion compound. Again, temporary, but an effort. You can see it smeared on where the steel sprocket will interface with the aluminum hub.

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Old 04-29-2010, 12:13 PM   #35
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My catch bottle is the RLR one. I took the hose up thru the airbox drain opening.
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:14 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klatelm
thanks for all the info to all. i have an 03 525. when you had the rear wheel off, was there any play at the shock where it mounts to the swing arm. i was told this was normal and still have a hard time believing it.
Mine is an 05. No play at all. Check your shock bearings?
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
They list it as for a 400 exc. Do you have the 400 rack on your 530?
400 and 525 are the same. The rack will fit your bike. I fashioned mine after this and made it in a couple of hours the day before a ride as I needed to carry a 3L gas can for the ride. Have a 13litre tank but sometimes it just aint enough.
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:54 PM   #38
Skowinski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
I'm also told that torquey bikes like the 525 eat aluminium. As such, I chose steel. You can see that the original is done after 2k miles.
Yep. And the solution is an ironman rear sprocket. They are pricey, but as far as I can tell they seem to just not wear, hardly at all. In the long run you save money.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...-Sprocket.aspx
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:11 PM   #39
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Another upgrade I was looking forward to installing - hand guards. I have some Moose Racing on my DR350. Not bad, but I thought I would take it up a notch. It all starts here. Kind of a pain, but well worth it -



I'm a big fan of Loctite. Those in the know, know exactly where this is going -



Yep - Highway Dirtbike hand guards! -



One can not express the AWESOME that is Highway Dirtbike hand guards! They are so much more beefy than the typical handguards such as Acerbis. Check them out here - http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/
There is a 10% ADV discount available. Ask them for the code (can't remember it). They are a bit more, but imo, worth it.




They are second only to -



But I digress. Those familiar with the product are probably wondering - 'Why the heck didn't you get those cool fold in mirrors that they sell with the hand guards?" You're right - I should have. For a measly 45 bucks they are a no-brainer. But, I like high mount mirrors. Now that the guards are installed, I wish I would have added the mirrors to the order. No matter, they are mirror ready and I can buy them later. They also have some pretty cool LED integrated turn signals. The installation is pretty straightforward. However, I did find it necessary to move the turn signal/hi-lo beam/horn unit "1/2" to the left. That requires that another "anti-rotation" hole be drilled in the handlebar (there's a tab in the plastic). The clutch hydraulic fitting conflicted with the inboard guard mount. Also, unless you use risers, the ignition switch will come in contact with the other mount. Apparently they have bolt on ignition switch mounts to move the key switch so consider that. I added risers to compensate for the EE comfort seat. I also like risers for standing up. These are the 30mm EE version. Not bad, but I could use a LOT more rise. I could seriously use 4 inch risers. Any ideas?

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Old 04-29-2010, 08:48 PM   #40
Klay
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Aha. I was wondering why you had the DR350 up for sale.
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada72
They are second only to -


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Old 04-29-2010, 10:54 PM   #42
GR0NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakewop
Its 1 liter without filter change,, 1.2 liter with filter change.
There is a LOT of talk about it on KTMtalk. Head on over there and read all about it. There are some interesting discoveries.. In my bike, the siteglass shows about a fingernail worth of oil in the glass with exactly 1.2 L after a filter change.. Oh, and remember to pull your screens and clean them with each oil change.. And dont strip out those bolts.!!!!! But Im shure you have read all about that on ktmtalk being that there are a bazillion discussions on it.
+1 on this.

Don't even look at the sight glass!

I found that it's not quite 1.2 L when I change the filters though. After you have drained the oil through the rear drain and removed the oil screens and oil filters, remove (or just loosen) the stator cover. Another 100ml of oil will drain out. There's your 1.2 liters.



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Old 04-30-2010, 02:40 AM   #43
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Hey I see yours has an ignition switch fitted. Can you tell me the colour of the wires this plugs into beind the headlight? I want to put one on mine but have a couple of spare connectors under there one of which I'm sure is for an ignition switch.
Thanks - Andy.
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Old 04-30-2010, 04:33 AM   #44
GR0NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTC
Hey I see yours has an ignition switch fitted. Can you tell me the colour of the wires this plugs into beind the headlight? I want to put one on mine but have a couple of spare connectors under there one of which I'm sure is for an ignition switch.
Thanks - Andy.
My bike is a bit special as I have the European wiring harness and the factory KTM combo switch for high/low beam, horn and signals. Not sure if you get the same one on your bikes down under. I ordered mine through a KTM dealer and retrofitted it myself. However, I am not sure if any of those extra wires you have are specifically for an ignition switch.

What I did, and it's a bit more complicated than it needs to be, is to use a SPST switch and a small relay to disable the starter relay and the ignition coil. The starter relay signal wire goes directly through the key switch as that is a DC current and it also powers the secondary relay using that same DC current. The switched side of the second relay opens ans closes the coil circuit.

I did this so that when the key is removed, the bike cannot be started with the kickstarter AND the electric starter is disabled to prevent someone from killing my battery trying to use it.

I remember seeing a wiring diagram that didn't use the second relay, I'll see if I can find it as I believe it's a better way of doing it than I did. The way mine is wired, if the battery shorts out, there is a possibility of not having enough current to operate the secondary relay and that will kill the motor or make it run very badly. DAMHIK.



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Old 04-30-2010, 04:38 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Aha. I was wondering why you had the DR350 up for sale.
Yeah, it's for sale, but obviously not at a fire sale price which seems the only way to sell a bike these days. Chances are good it will stay mine which is just fine - DRs are great bikes. It might even become my assault tool for a Mexican adventure next winter.
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