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Old 08-04-2010, 06:37 PM   #76
bananaman OP
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Location: Madison, Wisconsin and/or Panama, Panama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
I think I know what a tune-up is, but what is a full tank service?
A full tank service on an R11xx GS means changing the fuel filter and pre filter, changing the rubber hoses (with new hoses specifically rated for fuel-submerged use), changing all the fittings and clamps, and testing the fuel pump. Any time you go into the tank you're supposed to change the O seals because they swell with fuel and become almost impossible to re-use. While you're in the tank it's not a bad idea to completely dry it and inspect the interior. Older tanks can flake. My touratech tank is just white alcamet on the inside, so there's no paint. I prefer to drain the tank, then use a sponge to remove the last drops of gasoline, and once the tank is mostly dry, use a vaccuum cleaner to remove an bits of dirt or sediment at the bottom of the tank.
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:43 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananaman
A full tank service on an R11xx GS means changing the fuel filter and pre filter, changing the rubber hoses (with new hoses specifically rated for fuel-submerged use), changing all the fittings and clamps, and testing the fuel pump. Any time you go into the tank you're supposed to change the O seals because they swell with fuel and become almost impossible to re-use. While you're in the tank it's not a bad idea to completely dry it and inspect the interior. Older tanks can flake. My touratech tank is just white alcamet on the inside, so there's no paint. I prefer to drain the tank, then use a sponge to remove the last drops of gasoline, and once the tank is mostly dry, use a vaccuum cleaner to remove an bits of dirt or sediment at the bottom of the tank.
I might need to do this on a new to me 2004 R1150 GS. When the fuel volume gets low, its acts like its running out of fuel. I'm thinking there is some debris in the tank that is partially blocking the fuel intake.

How much time does this sort of thing take a person their first service?
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Old 08-09-2010, 02:33 PM   #78
bananaman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
I might need to do this on a new to me 2004 R1150 GS. When the fuel volume gets low, its acts like its running out of fuel. I'm thinking there is some debris in the tank that is partially blocking the fuel intake.

How much time does this sort of thing take a person their first service?
First, you're going to have to disconnect the tank. If it's got quick disconnects, then it's a 2 minute job. If you don't have quick disconnects, then get some. Install them so that one hose connector goes in one direction, and the other goes in the other direction- this is so that you can't accidentally re-install the tank wrong. I'd say this will take about an hour, maybe 2.

Removing the fuel filter/fuel pump/etc. is a few screws. Be careful when you pull it out of the tank cuz of the vent hoses. Be ready to mark them so that you know what goes where. 20-30 minutes. Maybe only 10, depending on the screws.

Swapping the fuel filter is easy. 5-10 minutes.

I like to use a sponge to sop up the last bit of fuel in the tank.

Use some good grease on the new O rings.

Putting the tank back together is 10-20 minutes, depending on how good you are at putting grease on an O ring and then seating the whole unit thingy into the tank. Don't over-torque the screws.

Putting the tank back on takes 2-3 minutes if you have quick disconnects. A little longer if you don't.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:38 PM   #79
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I'm going to try to make this post a miniature personal hall of wisdom- more like a closet of wisdom (cow).

"Lost a Tooth," about breaking a tooth off the flywheel, exactly how I broke a tooth off my flywheel. This thread contains a nice nugget about how to properly align a new starter: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612291

'96 R1100GS: off-idle stumble and... has a new pearl about the throttle bodies- I guess you have to inspect them for tiny pebbles?!
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:31 AM   #80
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Now there's no fuel coming through the injectors. The fuel pump does its whir when I turn the key. Since the bike is 16 years old and getting close to 100,000 miles, I decided to get a new Hall sensor.
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:35 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
Excellent synopsis there vintagerider.

And a decidedly helpful list of diagnostic steps for a variety of age related potential & manifested problems.

With yours and the OP's OK I'll add this to the HoW…

JJ
Am I mistaken, or did the HOW get edited, and this thread missed the cut? I hadn't looked at the HOW for a while, and the newer layout looks pretty snazzy.
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:56 PM   #82
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No, I spaced getting it in the HOW…

It's in there now.

JJ
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:49 PM   #83
bananaman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjen View Post
No, I spaced getting it in the HOW…

It's in there now.

JJ
You guys are funny. It used to be in, and then it got spaced out, and now it's spaced in... all I know is, this summer the bike ran perfectly, even though my new BMW tech says I should give up and get a new one. He says the throttle bodies are worn out, but I can still do wheelies, and for proof of the bike's ability to accelerate, in July I got a ticket going about 90 in a 55 on the way to the 5th annual Latin America Rider Rallye. So much for "65 mph maximum attainable speed."
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:46 PM   #84
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Bananaman, good to hear that you are still riding the 1100 GS. . Even with their flaws, still worth riding today. I'll have to read your thread about "aligning the starer" I simply align locating dowel pin. Community knowledge is always evolving. Our old "how to" posts should never be considered the final word. New inmates should feel free to question and revise.

Greasing the big o-ring on the fuel plate?
Never heard of that. They go in dry. If the old one is supple can be re-used after the old gas evaporates. Upgrading from Buna-N to Viton found the local seal shop is nice but not essential. Big thing the neubee needs to watch out for is over-torquing the nuts on the tank studs-- use two fingers on a nut driver only. Put two gallons in and rest on side for several hours. If its leaking it can be the electrical bulkhead fittings are shot.
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