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Old 04-02-2013, 12:33 PM   #271
JRP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbradbury View Post
I was hoping someone here could help me with this problem. 1st gear seems to bog bad. I have read many different forums about this and still can't seem to find the answer. I have a JD tuner but yet to mess with it. Am I running lean on the low end? Is the JD tuner the answer to my problems? Can anyone provide me with the settings?

Thanks in advance!

Change the rear sprocket to a 50 tooth if you haven't already done so. Bypass the lambda sensor and remove the catalytic converter. The TXC 250 ECU and 12 hole injector fix just about all the problems.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:46 PM   #272
swamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRP View Post
Change the rear sprocket to a 50 tooth if you haven't already done so. Bypass the lambda sensor and remove the catalytic converter. The TXC 250 ECU and 12 hole injector fix just about all the problems.
yes. very yes.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:46 AM   #273
Asian Touring
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Rear racks for TE250 Husky

Looking at doing some off/on road touring through Asia on either a WR250r or the TE250. Is there rear racks available for the TE and will the rear guard frame handle a small rack fitted with three x three liter leather saddle bags
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:31 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by Asian Touring View Post
Looking at doing some off/on road touring through Asia on either a WR250r or the TE250. Is there rear racks available for the TE and will the rear guard frame handle a small rack fitted with three x three liter leather saddle bags
The TE250 does not make a good touring bike...it's a dirt bike with a plate.

If it had a wider gear box with something resembling low end torque maybe (when I say "low end torque", I mean just the ability to maybe avoid constant flame out/stalling).
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #275
swamp
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yea,
not a good touring bike.
excellent woods bike.

mine never flames out. after the ecu and injector upgrades that is a thing of the past.



go with the WR
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:26 PM   #276
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OK my turn. I bought a 08 this winter with 475 mi. Came with a box of parts including o2 bypass plug and wire termination. Running a Arrow exhaust. The question:
PO isn't sure if the ecu was changed or the injector- how to tell, and
If it wasn't, will bypassing the o2 help at all?
Does pop back ( flame-out?) if you quick rev it, but runs like crazy if you wring it out , alotta fun.
Running 14/50 Thanks folks
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:43 PM   #277
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2010 TE250 X-lite big bore options?

Yesterday one of my riding partners had his engine lock up while riding a transit section (road) on a dual sport ride. Bike is a 2010 TE250 with ~2500 miles on it and the OEM power up kit, gutted cat, and JD Tuner. He really wants to believe it was his water pump that failed but I would put my money elsewhere as the oil is clean, radiators are full and there are no drips under the pump. I had it dialed in with the stock injector and JD tuner, but then he took it upon himself to install a 12 port injector without spending the time to get it dialed in. It ran too rich down low on the existing settings with the new 12 port injector (no new ECU) so he just leaned it out across the board... bad idea!

Regardless of what caused the seizure, the motor is now locked up solid, but would turn over with the kicker immediately after it first happened and there was no angry metallic noise at the initial seizure (this makes me ASSume that it is not valvetrain either, my money is still on an overheated piston from running too lean.)

Knowing that the topend will need to be replaced at the absolute minimum, what are the options for going big bore? I know that Athena had a BB for the 2009 and older, but nothing for the X-lite 2010+ engines. This engine has always been lacking in the bottom end department, so the goal with the big bore would be to improve bottom end. These bikes seem like they are already fairly high compression, so I wouldn't think that a high comp piston is the answer is it? If the cylinder needs plating (likely) it would just make sense to do a big bore now.

It is my understanding that the 250/310 x-lites use different cylinder heights as well as the 310 having a longer stroke, so the OEM 310 jug does not look like an option.

te250
bore: 79mm
stroke: 50.9mm

te310
bore:82mm
stroke: 57.3mm

Does anyone know of Big Bore kits that work with the TE250 X-lite?
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:13 PM   #278
swamp
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J,
I think you are correct when you say that the bike ran too lean.

I have not seen a BB kit for the 250.
At first i thought you may be able to just go to the 310 but after reading what you wrote .. i GUESS that is not an option.

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to the other guy asking about the ECU and the injector.
take the injector out and look at it. if its a 12 port it will have 12 tiny holes in it.

The TXC ECU has "TXC" written on it.
if it doesnt say that then you probably have the stock ECU.

.... at least mine reads "TXC" hope this helps.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:59 PM   #279
swamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman318 View Post
OK my turn. I bought a 08 this winter with 475 mi. Came with a box of parts including o2 bypass plug and wire termination. Running a Arrow exhaust. The question:
PO isn't sure if the ecu was changed or the injector- how to tell, and
If it wasn't, will bypassing the o2 help at all?
Does pop back ( flame-out?) if you quick rev it, but runs like crazy if you wring it out , alotta fun.
Running 14/50 Thanks folks

i gotta know... whats it like riding with the trials tire on the front ?
I've thought about trying it before but haven't actually done it.

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Old 04-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #280
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They didn't stay on long enough to find out. Put the stockers back on.
They were ok on the street, but I'm not sold off road yet. I know people love them off road, but they seem slick to me.They are for sale if anyone is looking, only 150 mi.The trials tire handled good at speed but this bike isn't geared for that. Riding a hare scramble this weekend and thinking going to a 13.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:06 PM   #281
dirtydeeds
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I may have some suspension from a TE450 to trade. It's been lowered 2". Front and back. I'd love to trade for stock stuff.

I'm thinking of buying the bike but don't need lowered suspension.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:02 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman318 View Post
They didn't stay on long enough to find out. Put the stockers back on.
They were ok on the street, but I'm not sold off road yet. I know people love them off road, but they seem slick to me.They are for sale if anyone is looking, only 150 mi.The trials tire handled good at speed but this bike isn't geared for that. Riding a hare scramble this weekend and thinking going to a 13.
Around here a trials tyre is brilliant, but we don't see a lot of deep mud.

They're also preferred because of the (percieved?) lack of damage to the trails we ride. We share with horses and ramblers who have great PR!

-Simon
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:13 PM   #283
swamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimie View Post
Around here a trials tyre is brilliant, but we don't see a lot of deep mud.

They're also preferred because of the (percieved?) lack of damage to the trails we ride. We share with horses and ramblers who have great PR!

-Simon
We run the trials tires here too but only on the back
Simon, where are you from sorry dont know where Debon is.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:45 AM   #284
The Letter J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
Yesterday one of my riding partners had his engine lock up while riding a transit section (road) on a dual sport ride. Bike is a 2010 TE250 with ~2500 miles on it and the OEM power up kit, gutted cat, and JD Tuner. He really wants to believe it was his water pump that failed but I would put my money elsewhere as the oil is clean, radiators are full and there are no drips under the pump. I had it dialed in with the stock injector and JD tuner, but then he took it upon himself to install a 12 port injector without spending the time to get it dialed in. It ran too rich down low on the existing settings with the new 12 port injector (no new ECU) so he just leaned it out across the board... bad idea!

Regardless of what caused the seizure, the motor is now locked up solid, but would turn over with the kicker immediately after it first happened and there was no angry metallic noise at the initial seizure (this makes me ASSume that it is not valvetrain either, my money is still on an overheated piston from running too lean.)

Knowing that the topend will need to be replaced at the absolute minimum, what are the options for going big bore? I know that Athena had a BB for the 2009 and older, but nothing for the X-lite 2010+ engines. This engine has always been lacking in the bottom end department, so the goal with the big bore would be to improve bottom end. These bikes seem like they are already fairly high compression, so I wouldn't think that a high comp piston is the answer is it? If the cylinder needs plating (likely) it would just make sense to do a big bore now.

It is my understanding that the 250/310 x-lites use different cylinder heights as well as the 310 having a longer stroke, so the OEM 310 jug does not look like an option.

te250
bore: 79mm
stroke: 50.9mm

te310
bore:82mm
stroke: 57.3mm

Does anyone know of Big Bore kits that work with the TE250 X-lite?
Well I pulled the engine out yesterday and started tearing it down... not good. The piston was seized but broke free fairly easily. The rings still move freely but there is one groove in the cylinder that might be too deep to hone out. I knew the piston used a single compression ring, but what is the machined groove under the compression ring/ above the oil scrapers for? It looks like they intended for it to take 2 rings but it isn't machined deep enough to accept another ring?

The valves/ cams/ water pump/ cylinder head look good and there was no abnormal metal in the oil or the filter. After pulling the starter out, the crank rotated but not real smooth, the lower rod bearing however was locked up solid! Why would the rod bearing take a dump first?

On the grocery list now is:
Crankshaft
main bearings
gasket set
cam chain
piston/rings/wrist pin/bearing
cylinder

Looks like about $1300 in parts, and as far as I can tell, replacing all these parts at the same time I could use the 310 parts. I'm still comparing parts diagrams between the 250 and 310 trying to confirm, especially since many of the parts are 3+ weeks out!

Does anyone know of an engine builder/ shop that specializes in Husky's who's brain I could pick before ordering parts?

BTW I did finally find a source for online parts diagrams here: http://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/oem_parts

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Old 05-07-2013, 06:30 AM   #285
bobnoxious67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp View Post
yea,
not a good touring bike.
excellent woods bike.

mine never flames out. after the ecu and injector upgrades that is a thing of the past.



go with the WR
True, ours runs so much better with the ecu and injector...but I still get stalls if I'm not aggressive enough with the clutch during low speed stuff.

If my 450 could have this fuel/ignition mapping, life would be perfect
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