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Old 05-25-2010, 04:32 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamin_mathis
Damn $80 oil change on a bike for that much I could do 2 oil changes on my truck and its got a 351ci V8

$14 seems high even for synthetic

auto synthetic is less expensive than mc synthetic...half the price.

this is one reason i like the honda xr400...i can use oil from wallmart.......
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:34 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by Earl999
What brand of oil?

I buy 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 (auto syn oil) for $23.

Does K&N make an a/m oil filter for your bike?

yes, a new product and still $16 each...
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:57 PM   #153
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I just roll up to the local jiffylube with my KLR, uncork the used oil tank with an old pantyhose as a filter and fill her up.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:51 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by Fishyhead
I just roll up to the local jiffylube with my KLR, uncork the used oil tank with an old pantyhose as a filter and fill her up.

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Old 05-26-2010, 06:23 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8chains
auto synthetic is less expensive than mc synthetic...half the price.
I've used Mobil 1 (auto) 15W-50 in my 4T bikes for over 30 years w/o any issues.

I have yet to see a definitive study that concluded m/c specific oils were any better than auto oils. In almost every study/test I've seen thus far, Mobil 1 auto came out on top or next to with objective ASTM std bearing tests, etc.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:31 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl999
I've used Mobil 1 (auto) 15W-50 in my 4T bikes for over 30 years w/o any issues.

I have yet to see a definitive study that concluded m/c specific oils were any better than auto oils. In almost every study/test I've seen thus far, Mobil 1 auto came out on top or next to with objective ASTM std bearing tests, etc.
Good stuff indeed, but I'll stick with Motul
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:23 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl999
I've used Mobil 1 (auto) 15W-50 in my 4T bikes for over 30 years w/o any issues.

I have yet to see a definitive study that concluded m/c specific oils were any better than auto oils. In almost every study/test I've seen thus far, Mobil 1 auto came out on top or next to with objective ASTM std bearing tests, etc.

mobil makes a m/c synthetic for $10/liter, the auto is $6. i will give the m/c version a try, $4 more but it says 4T.... .
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:47 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8chains
did an oil change on the gs1200 and tw200....oil and filters cost me $100+ ...; and the labor was freeeeee......

you think having more than 1 bike is fun......

Crap! My oil change on the diesel is 13 gallons and cost me less.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:03 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl999
I've used Mobil 1 (auto) 15W-50 in my 4T bikes for over 30 years w/o any issues.

I have yet to see a definitive study that concluded m/c specific oils were any better than auto oils. In almost every study/test I've seen thus far, Mobil 1 auto came out on top or next to with objective ASTM std bearing tests, etc.
My understanding is that some auto oils have friction modifiers that could cause the clutch to slip. The usual advice is to either use moto oil or to check the round API certification label on the back of the bottle and avoid any that say "energy conserving".
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:32 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM
My understanding is that some auto oils have friction modifiers that could cause the clutch to slip. The usual advice is to either use moto oil or to check the round API certification label on the back of the bottle and avoid any that say "energy conserving".
Yeah thats what I've heard as well that auto synth can make a wet clutch slip, I've been using the Mobil MC for my last 3 oil changes my clutch hasn't slipped and my motor hasn't blown up so it must be the best

$18 oil is shocking what could make it worth that much? I wish someone would do an independent long term study of all the synthetic oils against one good dino oil and see how much longer a motor last. I doubt there could be much more than 10% difference between them but I am just pulling that out of my ass.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:23 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamin_mathis
Yeah thats what I've heard as well that auto synth can make a wet clutch slip, I've been using the Mobil MC for my last 3 oil changes my clutch hasn't slipped and my motor hasn't blown up so it must be the best

$18 oil is shocking what could make it worth that much? I wish someone would do an independent long term study of all the synthetic oils against one good dino oil and see how much longer a motor last. I doubt there could be much more than 10% difference between them but I am just pulling that out of my ass.
There are different levels of synthetic stock used in the quality oils. Mobil 1 doesn't use the best level. I have had mobil 1 analyzed after track use in my Evo. A long conversation with Dyson(labs) was quite the learning experience. He told me to run a better oil when doing track days. Mobil 1 breaks down fast. All oils break down pretty quick. The key is were they stabilize at. That being said, I still know alot of race teams that run Mobil 1. Personally, I think they all work well for a stock production engine. I got tired of Mobil 1 going up in price(I'm a cheap bastard and should be riding a KLR) and was looking for something else. Enter Racinace. He hooked me up with a Panolin wherehouse that was shutting down. Panolin is good stuff($15-18 retail) and was started by some ex Motorex engineers. Bought about 100 litres of oil from them between $3.90 and $4.20 depending on which I bought(MrsTahoeacr was not happy with this ).

When was the last time any of us actually say a oil related failure? Or rebuilt an engine because of lack of oil? The first CRF450's had oil problems but that was caused by design. Not enough oil getting to the cam. A national level pro could were a cam out in 4-5 hours.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:38 AM   #162
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The 15W-50 isn't energy conserving IIRC.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:29 AM   #163
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This ain't your Daddy's Volvo

I just think they are cool. 2.5L with a big turbo. You just can't stay with them out of the corners(AWD).




They do come in on the hook often. Usually trannies. This was an oil cooler failure which caused the engine to overheat. Water temp sensor was reading air temp(cause all the coolant was gone) and Pilgrim didn't realize it. Big melted engine.

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Old 05-26-2010, 11:33 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr

1) There are different levels of synthetic stock used in the quality oils. Mobil 1 doesn't use the best level.

2) I have had mobil 1 analyzed after track use in my Evo. A long conversation with Dyson(labs) was quite the learning experience. He told me to run a better oil when doing track days. Mobil 1 breaks down fast. All oils break down pretty quick. The key is were they stabilize at. That being said, I still know alot of race teams that run Mobil 1.

3) Personally, I think they all work well for a stock production engine.

4) When was the last time any of us actually say a oil related failure? Or rebuilt an engine because of lack of oil? The first CRF450's had oil problems but that was caused by design. Not enough oil getting to the cam. A national level pro could were a cam out in 4-5 hours.
1) Correct, there are 5 different grades of oils, Mobil 1 is a PAO, the next (and highest) is ester based.

2) For my street bikes, I change the oil every 1K miles, so viscosity breakdown isn't an issue. My track KTM gets fresh oil after EVERY track day! In one of the m/c mag objective tests, Mobil 1 auto had the LEAST amount of viscosity break down, so depends on the lab, bike used, sampling point, etc.

3) Right-O, for the money, I've had great results with Mobil 1 auto 15W-50.

4) Right-O again, oil volume was just too small on that bike. My Husky 610SM takes 2.1 quarts, my XR650L takes 2.4 quarts, so there's plenty of oil to circulate.

FYI - If the 2nd number is 40 or higher, it's a NON Energy Conserving (EC) oil, check the API label (lower half of the ring) and you can verify that easily.
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:42 PM   #165
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Have you noticed any effects on mileage when using the 15W-50?
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