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Old 05-16-2010, 03:34 PM   #1
Esser OP
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Location: Sarnia, ON
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Esser's 1983 XL600 Teardown

If this thread is in the wrong spot feel free to move.

For all of you who came over from the XL600 thread I am going to recap a little of what is going on.


I have had an XL600 for a number of years in the back burner that when ever I get time I am going to get around to fixing up. The last time I fired it up was two years ago when I adjusted the valve clearances which made it alot easier to start.

Recently my brother inlaw bought a beautiful 2009 XR650 with 6 miles on it. I now had the time off work and the reason to get this bike going. (I have to prove to him that a 26 year older bike than his will be faster even with less displacement.

I have a shop out in the country that the local bike mechanic rents some space off of me and since he owed me a bit of money I dropped the bike off to him in May of 2009. Fast forward a year, I go to see if my bike is ready and he hadn't even touched it! Needless to say I took the bike home anyway since I now had the itch.

After reading online about the stators going when the bike over heats I decided to buy a new stator as alot of my wires were chewed as was the stator cover. And I didn't have the best spark I had ever seen.

The stator wires and cover looked like that had damage from a broken chain or similiar trauma.

So a few days ago I received this in the mail.

So i put my bike up on the centre stand and get to work to remove this:



An hour later, a bit of oil on the floor, and a shiny new red stator cover later I am in business. Although it took a few more kicks to get started as it hadn't been started in two years I still had the unreliablilty I had before. If I rolled the throttle on more than slowlyit would bog down. If I rolled off the throttle it would sputter and choke. Something more was up.

Happy to report with the new stator she starts on seconde kick when cold. When hot....well that another mystery altogether.

After some people on the XL600 thread asked some questions I poked around a little closer and discovered this!



The spacer on the intake manifold was cracked and the oring was broken.
And more worrisome is the oil coming out of the right hand side as you can see in the picture.

Further investigation revealed this:




I discovered the intake on the left hand side of the block was clean and dry. The right hand side though had a black oily sludge in the inside and I am guessing some sort of seal on a valve is leaking. This is the best picture I could get of it:

The browny black on the right side covers the entire intake closer to the camera but the lighting was bad. Either way shouldn't look liek that.

I forgot to mention the only wrenching I have done to this point is rebuilding a lawn mower in grade 10 so I feel like I am getting slightly in over my head but my good ole clymers seems to be guiding me so far.

So with the oily intake and the rough running engine I decide the head should be taken off and have a peek. The tear down begins:
First suprise of the day is the weld breaking on the foot peg. I am not going to mess around to fix this as I will never get it welded on perfectly straight.



Off comes the exhaust!
http://s1042.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0138.jpg




Engine removed!



My airbox is toast. The owner before my had tried to glue his cracks back together but when trying to remove it it still destroyed it



It looks like either A: I replace the airbox with OEM
Or B: I go after market K&N which is an idea I liek more and more as I'm barely off road and ussually dont ride intentionally in the rain(Call me a wimp haha)

Does any body have any thoughts on this filter replacement?

Tomorrow(Or tonight if I get a second wind) I am going to remove the head and take a peak. Lots of pictures to follow.
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:39 PM   #2
scrminbanshee
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Ithink i have an extra airboxs its in good shape just minus all the covers if you want...Just pay the shipping send me your adress i work for fedex and get a good discount if you need there asap or we can go snail mail...just shoot me a pm.. I hope it all works out.
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:51 PM   #3
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I'm waiting to see some engine parts scattered around.
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #4
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Hey Scrimbanshee thanks for the offer. If you don't mind I am going to looking to K&N thing a little bit more first and decide which way I want to go. I'll PM you if I decide to go with the air box.

I just have a quick question for anybody who has done thing. I cant get three off the valve covers off. Since they are aluminum I'd hestitant to wrench on them too much. I'm guessing air is the way to go but I'm not equipped in my garage with pneumatics.

Any tips for getting these covers off?
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:38 PM   #5
HeadTrauma
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I use a big 15/16" box-end wrench and hit it with a piece of wood if necessary. Six-point is better than 12, but either will work. The 15/16 fits tighter on the hex than a "correct" 24mm.
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:48 PM   #6
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Hey Headtrauma...since you were telling me abotu this in the other thread, will this part work on my 83? It's from an 87.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-HO...Q5fAccessories

Also I had the 15/16 on there and the problem is that the engine isn't attached to anything. I had a friend try to hold it while I hit the wrench with a ballpeen. I think I'm going to take the entire engine to my buddys and impact them off.

I was thinking about heating them but I figured the aluminum would heat up way faster that the steel head, I might still try to give that a shot.
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:07 PM   #7
HeadTrauma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esser
1.) Hey Headtrauma...since you were telling me abotu this in the other thread, will this part work on my 83? It's from an 87.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-HO...Q5fAccessories

2.) Also I had the 15/16 on there and the problem is that the engine isn't attached to anything. I had a friend try to hold it while I hit the wrench with a ballpeen. I think I'm going to take the entire engine to my buddys and impact them off.

I was thinking about heating them but I figured the aluminum would heat up way faster that the steel head, I might still try to give that a shot.
1.) Yeah, that carb manifold will fit. $50 though...a bit steep IMO. All of his prices are, actually. They're not available new anymore, so I guess we gotta take what we can get or wait for cheaper parts to come up.

2.) It's actually aluminum in aluminum there...so heat may still not work.
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Old 05-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #8
bnjgriffin
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Carb boot from an 86 XL600R

I saw another boot item #320273089384 at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XL600...Q5fAccessories

which includes the insulator and is only $30 out the door.
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:09 AM   #9
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Hey bnjgiffim, thanks for keeping a look out for that part. I'm actually trying to get away from the plastic spacer so that I don't have this issue again. I decided to go with the more expensive aluminum one for a couple reasons. Mostly that I think it is stronger and will last longer and for the extra piece of mind it brings at only $20 more than the other one.

Thanks everyone for there interest so far. I should have lots more pictures an an update later today.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esser
Hey bnjgiffim, thanks for keeping a look out for that part. I'm actually trying to get away from the plastic spacer so that I don't have this issue again. I decided to go with the more expensive aluminum one for a couple reasons. Mostly that I think it is stronger and will last longer and for the extra piece of mind it brings at only $20 more than the other one.

Thanks everyone for there interest so far. I should have lots more pictures an an update later today.
I'm sorry to say this, but I think you should have gotten the 86 that bnjgriffin linked to. It's the same thing as the 87 but it INCLUDED the insulator/spacer (two parts not one). You still need the insulator and your original one is broken. So I think you are still looking for an insulator to complete your repairs.

There is another XL6 rebuild thread that featured an aluminum insulator, but it's custom made as far as I can tell, not Honda. Here is the link:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12670653&postcount=103

I think Honda made those insulators out of phenolic plastic on purpose. Probably keeps the carbs a tad bit cooler with the plastic. They are getting hard to find since there hasn't been a two carb bike made for a long time now. You may want to buy the 86 after all

I'm working on some XR500s right now. My bikes have the same reed valve setup that your 83 XL6 has. When I took my carb boot off for the first time I also found crud built up on the right intake valve (left valve was clean). This occurs when the valve cover gasket leaks and allows oil to enter the right intake under the high vacuum conditions through that open port on top of the head next to the reed valve.

I'm trying to think of a good way to seal my reed valve ports to prevent oil burning with a leaking valve cover gasket. Best Idea I've had is to use a newer valve cover gasket that is covered across that section of the head, but I'm not yet sure which year will work. I'll have to make a trip to the Honda dealer to see the gaskets in person.

Don't eliminate the reed valve unless you also upgrade to the newer carb boot with the cross port machined in it. But if you bought the 87 boot, then you now have that. But you still need the insulator.

Of course, everyone correct me if I'm wrong
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:21 AM   #11
scrminbanshee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esser
Hey Scrimbanshee thanks for the offer. If you don't mind I am going to looking to K&N thing a little bit more first and decide which way I want to go. I'll PM you if I decide to go with the air box.

I just have a quick question for anybody who has done thing. I cant get three off the valve covers off. Since they are aluminum I'd hestitant to wrench on them too much. I'm guessing air is the way to go but I'm not equipped in my garage with pneumatics.

Any tips for getting these covers off?
I use either a 22 or 24 mil i cant remember which one right now. Dont get on it to hard, but sometimes i found that i have to give the wrench a little twack from the palm of my hand in order to break it free. That shock helps a bunch to break it free without rounding the nut off. Good luck lets see who can get there bike running first haha...
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:22 AM   #12
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Ghostmutant. I was under the impression that the 87 assembly replaced the need for the spacer. But maybe I am confused. Does anybody else have any thoughts on this?
Thanks for the info on the valve cover gasket. I was hoping I would jsut have to swap in a new part and go. Let me know what you find out at the dealership.


Alright everybody an update so far. As for the valve covers I went to my friends farm and impacted them off no sweat.

I'm hoping I don't have to but my gut feeling is telling me to replace this gasket. What do you guys think?


Covers finally off I find TDC. This is the best picture I got: Can anybody tell me what the "F" mark means? My motor wants to move there constantly.



Bolts off and ready to go!



Rough Sketch to keep me organized..somewhat


Top Off





Tensioner Comes out


Trying to stay organized


Is this much play in the cam chain normal?
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:29 AM   #13
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Camshaft and sprocket out. Chain secured


Lobes look in healthy shape.
I dont like imperial too much but it's the only micrometer I had in that size range.


Discolouration arounf the exhaust valves


Now this is the brick wall I hit. Clymers is telling me to remove a plug and oring and I look and all I see is the chewed up piece of steel. I tried to pull on it straight up with needle nose but no luck.

Does anyone have any info on this or had this problem before? In the manual it seems liek there is a bold hiding under there. Any info would be appreciated


On a side note I found a guy to sandblast my frame, exhaust, pegs, swing arm, and what ever else I throw in there for a $100. I think thats a pretty reasonable price.


Thanks for everyones interested so far! I love comments so keep them coming.

Also big thanks for everyone who is giving me good input I truely do appreciate that.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:31 AM   #14
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Oh and scrminbanshee i really do hope you get yours going first or I will feel terrible. Thanks for everything so far.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:40 AM   #15
mcma111
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Fire

You have 2 marks on the stator. F for fire as when the coil discharges and T for TDC. The ignition actually fires before the engine gets to TDC.

The way I would check the cam chain is to reinstall the tensioner and see how the cam gear marks line up. If they are even with the top of the head then the chain has not stretched. If you can't get it in alignment, like it's a tooth off one way or the other then the chain is stretched. Time for replacement.

The play in the chain in the last pic is what the tensioned takes care of.
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