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Old 04-29-2013, 11:33 AM   #16
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Yes, but the procedure that is described by KTM is the perfect way to set it to the right tension on the ADV. 50mm is way to lose with the 2 wheels on the ground and the bike on the centerstand.
The point in the procedure is, that when the swingarm is in a straight line there still is enough but not to mutch play. If u put it at 50mm the chance of the chain biting in other components starts to get trivial. Certainly when u jump the bike so the chain gets maximum play. The chain also waves around when driving, look some slomo-video up from a bike with the chainside visible.
'03 KTM 250sx -- '05 KTM Adventure 950
'00 KTM 250sx -- '03 KTM 450sx -- '03 Yamaha R6 -- '08 KTM SuperDuke R --- '13 KTM 690 enduro R
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #17
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Different model KTM, but same principle...

I thought I would share the theory with you..
The idea is to remove shock (easy on KTM RFS models) and block up the rear wheel until the rear wheel spindle, swingarm spindle and gearbox output shaft are all in line.
This is the tightest the chain will ever get to during it's travel.
Then adjust the chain so it is has barely any free play.
Then lower the wheel and replace the shock.
Then check the chain play with the rear wheel off the ground.... this is the amount of play you need to adjust your chain to in the future...... so long as you still have the same size sprockets (see my comment at the bottom of page)

1st photo shows rear wheel chocked up by 260mm of timber to bring the three shafts into line.
The string line can just be seen

Second photo shows a close up of the string line. Chain has only a small amount of play.

Third photo shows the chain tension when the shock is back in and the wheel is off the ground. Three links of the chain can be pressed onto the top of the swingarm.
It has to be this loose.
If it were tighter the chain would be even tighter than a guitar string when the suspension is compressed. This would cause damage to the gearbox output shaft bearing, chain and rear wheel bearings.
BTW the bike has 14:40 gearing. When I did the same procedure with 13:50 off road gearing the chain could not be pressed closer than 3mm away from the top of the swingarm. Its this dramatic difference caused by sprocket sizes that can catch out the unwary.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Martynho View Post
I am concerned at the amount of chain slap on my 08 990Adv. I have set the tension correctly at about 50mm play when the rear is compressed and axle/sw brg and chainwheel aligned so dont want to go any tighter, but the chain slap sounds alarming considering there is no chain guide fitted. I am used to running chains slacker rather than tighter on my EXC's in the interests of driveline bearings but these have a chain guide of course.

Anyone else have this also...should I just ignore it or are there any dire consequences out there waiting for me.

BTW the OEM chain has 12K miles on it. Sprockets look good. What chain life are folks getting out there

My 950 never had any noticeable chain "slap" until it was worn out. When the links started kinking and the pitch didn't match the sprockets anymore it made noise and slapped around. On my third chain now..longest one ever lasted was 17,000 miles..
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:13 PM   #19
The Griz
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Originally Posted by Johnf3 View Post
Not the way I understand it, or how it has been explained by others smarter than me. The swingarm movement is an arc. Off the stand with no load is not the tightest the chain will be. The chain will be tightest when the swingarm is straight in line with the front countershaft.
You are correct. I had it reversed! My apologies. I will edit my post to reflect.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:25 PM   #20
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Reposted with corrections:

Your chain is 10-15mm too loose. It should be 35-40mm, while bike is on side stand.

DO NOT adjust chain tension to 35-40mm while the bike is on the center stand. You're asking for trouble and excessive chain wear at minimum if you do that. When the bike is on the center stand this is the chain's loosest position. This is because the drive shaft (center of the front sprocket), swing arm axle, and rear wheel axle (center of the rear sprocket) are as misaligned as they can be. This misalignment shortens the distance between the drive shaft and the rear wheel axle, effectively making chain looser. If you set the chain tension to 35-40mm in this position it will be WAY too tight when the swing arm is in the exact center of its swing, when the drive shaft, swing arm axle, and rear wheel axle are fully aligned. The reason KTM has you put the bike on the side stand is because it loads the bike slightly and moves the swing arm more toward alignment position. True, putting the bike on it's side stand doesn't put the swing arm exactly at the aligned position, but it's closer. Also KTM have accounted for the difference between true alignment position and where the swing arm is at while the bike is on its side stand. Follow the manual specification and steps and it'll be perfect. There are those out there that adjust to 35-40mm when the swing arm is in its fully aligned position, but this would be wrong too, as the chain would be too loose. In reality, if one wanted to adjust the chain with the swing arm in its fully aligned position the chain slack would probably need to be more like 25-30mm.
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:18 PM   #21
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Joined: Jul 2011
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BTW the OEM chain has 12K miles on it. Sprockets look good. What chain life are folks getting out there

I got 20k out of my chain. Chain 'appeared' good, but had stretched just to it's spec/limit. Rear sprocket fine, front had the slightest hint of 'hooking' in shape. I didn't have a slapping, but I had, what I thought, was a top end engine noise. I was wrong, an inmate steered me to measure the chain.

I read a note about some after-market front sprockets, that may be too 'hard' for the counter-shaft. Mis-matched hardness'. Harder is not necessarily better. . . .Could be a problem. I just ran OEM. KTM provides an OEM kit of the chain and sprockets. IMHO - you don't want to install a 'repair/clip-type master link'. Install the rivet type master-link. Let the yelping begin !

You will also get quite a conversation on whether or not to lube a drive chain. I lube mine lightly every 3-400 miles. I got 20,000 miles.

Then buy a GS . . . Good luck - BR
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:03 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by carmima View Post
If it does this, it's not chain adjustment - it's V-twin pulse
Hey'a Martyn! Hey mate, my bike does the same thing, has always done the same thing, right around 4K rpm. Smooths out around 4500 or so. Sounds a bit like chain slap, but its not, in my case anyway.

Also, FWIW, I don't run a chain over 15K miles. Even the DID-ZVMX. I toss in a new CS sprocket at 7K miles, then change the whole works at 15K. Worked well for me for 60,000 miles anyway, still alive and bike still runs good. Maybe overkill, but I like to have a solid chain on the bike.

Hope all is well in the southlands amigo.
Riding the Americas: No Fumar Español

crashmaster screwed with this post 05-03-2013 at 11:29 AM
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