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Old 04-11-2012, 12:50 AM   #241
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Mikael the later tanks may be paintable, but you have the early tanks so that you can weld them. The paint will not last long. I did a carbon wrap on an Acerbis tank and it lifted/bubbles. The problem is that the tanks breath, it's the plastic that breathes, leaving exposed plastic will not allow it to breath some where else. I had a BMW R80gs Acerbis tank that I would gouge, epoxy resin, add beach sand to the wet epoxy. Then stick the BMW round badge to....... sot of worked for a while....... 2 years then the badges would fall off. So I would redo them, another $50 for badges (only in rip-off Australia)
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K2m screwed with this post 04-11-2012 at 01:20 AM
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:41 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locul@hotmail.com View Post
After been reading this Safaritank thread and the problems with these tanks being a bit obese over time. This text got me thinking.

"

A Thought ... Wrap a tank with large Carbon Fiber sheets ... On the back side only wrap inboard from the outside edge 3 inches, leaving the majority of the back plastic exposed. (Which will allow any of the gasses that cause bubbling to escape) The gasses would eventually separate the bond on the front but even if all the original bond was lost ... Everything would still fit tightly as it is a zero tolerance exoskeleton ... On the back side connect 4 of the outer edges with 2 long strips of CF 2 to 3 inches wide, crossing them effectively making a visible X on the back ... CF patchs on the back near exhaust and other hot spots.


(The tank skid protector could be included in the process) ... & ... (The clear tanks could have CF Open Sight Gauge's any where you wanted to put them)

Does anybody think this might work ... or would this be a bank breaker ...

"

How are your thoughts on this K2M and ofcourse everyone else. I think it could be done fairly easy. The purpose would be that the deformation would be less.
The stuff that bubbled on me was single layer. This might work, but you should use at least 4 layers. I think it could be worth a try
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:39 AM   #243
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Yes it was just an idea for the anti-deforming process which i assume will be a bit more "wild" on these weldable tanks. But the exoskelet would make sense, i think.
There is happening absolut nothing on this project. Im totally stuck with the suspension. I need a small part and since my front part of the frame is kept up by some wood i cant mount the radiator to see if it actually fits. Normal work starts for me tomorrow, it will be good to come into a normal everyday. The sparetime is good, but scheduled days are fine in the long haul. Though i just found out my summervacation is 6 weeks. wow.

To sum up i.
1: Water on the engine should be possible. Timeframe 14 days.
2: Oil...well just have to pour it in...
3: gas. Still need some response from aqualine. They are not really into checking their mails. They said they will ship some welding rods but they are apperently not in a hurry.
4: Making the frame for the dash more sturdy. Brace it somehow.
5: Still thinking on how i will do the brakesetup. The fork foot from magura is only a 26mm(30mm Adv). So the right one will be standard and the left will be magura(26mm).
6: Cleaning up the wiring.
7: Need to make a clever solution in the underseat area. This need some clever idea. Both my shorai and all the fuse and relays will be here. Not much room.
8....
9...
10..
11.
12


Will shoot some pictures of the lesser progress today.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:50 AM   #244
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Wicked

[QUOTE=mookymoo;13066281]The big sump at the front & bottom of the RC8 might be an issue ...



I like this baby a lot!
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:19 AM   #245
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I'm just learning about carbon fiber and fiberglassing myself so the only thing I have to say is that it would seem easier to just make new tanks like k2m and ship those pesky aqualines to Canada

you're welcome
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:24 AM   #246
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Clickmaster:

I do not get what you mean with the oilsump being a problem?

adiablolex:

Yes these pesky aqualines are pretty valuable since everyone in this forum have sold the house, kids, cars or anything else to buy them. Damn they are expensive. But ok that is probably not the only expensive stuff on our bikes.

The photo update of this day of nothing. As mentioned before im also getting ready for my first attempt in the Danish Enduro championship. Though this run will be more of a datacollector on where training needs aimed. For the first time i will go with the Go pro 2 and Viosport HD and Garmin 310XT. Then ill try stitch it together with the Dashware program and see its usable.
Bike...though something is missing.


Back to the carbonfreak. My first attempt of the HDB handguards. Not pretty but very sturdy. Carbon-Kevlar-carbon, the speed wind will not bend these. But they became a bit fugly.










The bashplate got mounted to the TT frame. Will take chips from stones and so, but not full impact. Cant mount it yet because of the missing front attachment.




I tried my friends Ducati S4 the other day. Fantastic to taste a motorbike again on the street. The weather is really getting better in Scandinavia. My house with the sun and 11 celcius. With the new siberian larch stair, gonna hold up some years with that price.



Well all for now. Enjoy your bikes Ladies and Gentlemen.

Bye
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:21 PM   #247
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Hi Mikael,
Just on the aqualines - your idea on using a CF "skin" to keep them from deforming is a good one but the skin wont adhere - other than their physical shape which kinda defeats the purpose. I think your better off making a mould from the OEM tank and reproducing it in FG which is easy to work/modify. Then you can incorporate the front fairing - just like a scaled down safari.
On your handguards - if you want them to look like a factory part you have to take a mould of the original part and then use that mould to make a new part. What your doing is called cold moulding and will always be much harder to get a neat finish. Just be careful using CF for your handguards because it is very rigid and if you do happen to break them or go over the bars they will cut you like a razor - extremely sharp.
Its good to see progress. Keep it up.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:35 PM   #248
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love the number on your race bike but I'm somewhat biased

I think the guards look fine, if I was doing the same I would add some extra wind protection though- winters here are almost as chilly as there.
If you want to experiment more I have two extra sets of white you're welcome to them, Mr.HDB send me enough of both colors to wreck for a lifetime

good luck with your racing man
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:56 PM   #249
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Pete's right

The beauty of making your tanks CF from the aqualine mold is you get to sell the tanks after........To Canada....... good money for nothing. Could be more reliable than welding also....

You see that Kevlar fuzz on your hand guards. Mix up a little resin. With the end of your finger wipe it over the fuzz. Keep it thin (Very) then, after cure, use a one sided razor blade and slice it off. Don't leave it to long to cure. Experiment.
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:31 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m View Post
Pete's right

The beauty of making your tanks CF from the aqualine mold is you get to sell the tanks after........To Canada....... good money for nothing. Could be more reliable than welding also....

You see that Kevlar fuzz on your hand guards. Mix up a little resin. With the end of your finger wipe it over the fuzz. Keep it thin (Very) then, after cure, use a one sided razor blade and slice it off. Don't leave it to long to cure. Experiment.
I dont recall mentioning the moulding of the safari parts? The OEM part incorporating the fairing - yes, not the safari tho.
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:54 AM   #251
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When I made my rear tanks I wondered how to mount a fuel tap so I made a paper gasket, impregnated it with resin , and screwed it on. The obvious problem will be how to remove it

So my new approach is to make some dead flat carbon plate. So I get a piece of off-cut nylon/ABS sheet. Cut 12 squares of CF. Saturate your cloth one at a time as you lay up your square. With another off-cut put it on top and load up a few house bricks to put the whole lot under pressure. Do this on a flat surface.

The result is a flat CF square. I used it for:-

In this photo.... see the oil tank baffle. I used a cardboard template to cut Carbon plate to shape. Slotted they fit together. My thinking is if the glue fails, and it comes loose it ain't going anywhere. It should continue to baffle .............



I also used it to mount my feul taps. I have put the male bolt out so as not to glue the threads in the nuts ....... ......as usual











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Old 04-13-2012, 01:21 AM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete640 View Post
I dont recall mentioning the moulding of the safari parts? The OEM part incorporating the fairing - yes, not the safari tho.
Sorry..........Pete. Must have misunderstood you How do you connect the faring to the Safari?

And how do you mold from OEM without damaging the paint, as the Safari is a piece of cake to mold from without damaging it.

Mikeal is considering skinning the safari's in CF but why not go all the way, mold the tanks and sell the Safari's, and the OEM. tanks, faring.........
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:42 AM   #253
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So the glue I use to mate alloy to CF is





This glue is good for gluing CF to CF also

I use a coat of Vinyl Ester resin to chemically protect my epoxy. Pete probably builds his rear tanks in vinyl as it is the accepted alcohol (solvent) proof material. I like working with West system epoxy resin so I finish with a vinyl coating. The same with my fuel tank.







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Old 04-15-2012, 06:16 PM   #254
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Just as a general info thing for those who are using FG to manufacture tanks and the like make sure you check the tech data sheet for the resin your using to see if it is resistant to the fuel/oil and ALSO the fuel/oil vapours. You'll find the vapours cause more problems than the liquid.
K2M - if your using VE as a barrier layer make sure you use a layer of tissue 1st with the vinyl and a neat layer second. Make sure the 1st cures properly - add a little DMA if you can to speed it up if your in a cold area.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #255
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Update from Denmark.

Not much happening because im missing some weldingrods from the company downunder. Safaritanks arghh...


Well i was determined that the dash should be a bit more stable. The high mounting point of the Garmin Montanta made it topheavy. Strong need for some attaching points at the top of the dash and im definitely not sure that this is enough. Only bumbs on the sandy trakc will show.
Startet out making a mould and then copy/pasted it with some carbon/kevlar.





Mounted it to the and works fairly ok. I had to use the windscreen as a mounting point, maybe i can come up with a better solution later. I works and seems stable.








The work station for now. There is a little gap in the low left area. Ill attend that later in the progress.




Ive decided to try some LED blinkers on my handguards. Im not all convinced yet, but it may work out.


Break


As the RC8R have a LOT of the wiring harness under the seat, i needed to give it a shot. You probably guessed it, the electrical stuff isnt my strong side. I really go slow with this. Arghh
This stuff needed a place to be...


ay...storage area.


Relay mounting brackets.


Testing.


Done.


I didnt get the picture where i test fitted all stuff in there. And that is inclusive the battery. Tight but doable. Though the fusebox needs wiring lenghtened. 12 wires at all, boring but better do it right. It will look good when done and be more easy to acces.

The coolant hoses is done. When the suspension is fitted again i can check the radiator.



Did the clutchslave today as the pushrod from the RC8R was a tad to long. 0.7mm precise. What to do...cut.


Done and works like a charm.


Some pictures of the brackets for the dash/gizmo area.





Does anyone know of some converters from standard brake to radial caliper mounts? Its for a magura caliper.

Best regards
Mikael
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