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Old 11-17-2010, 08:40 PM   #31
JackL OP
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Thanks everyone. Will do Wingfixer, it's on our list.
Taking a break for tonight. More to come tomorrow.
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2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls

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Old 11-18-2010, 05:16 AM   #32
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:20 PM   #33
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Back to the mountains!

A note on viewing. If the images are too large for your screen simply hold CTRL & scroll your mouse wheel.

Back to the Rockies where we got drenched. Rain into a storm & had no where to go. Eventually we found a shelter in a park & dried out. Then found a gorgeous camping spot east of Banff off the Old Hwy 1A.


Then breakfast in Banff & a wander around.


Dodged more thunderstorms & dried out some more at Lake Louise then headed up the Icefields Parkway.






Because we were in a national park we didn't feel comfortable guerrilla camping we actually paid for a camp site. It wasn't too bad & we had a nice camp fire to dry out. Here's the view from our tent.




The next day we made it to Jasper and got separated after lunch when we met at different liquor stores. We learned a lot there. Stopped in Hinton to gas up for a long leg & loved seeing this sign.


Dropped out of the mountains back into the plains & spent an afternoon in Grand Prairie. Jess changed her oil while I internetted at the Tourist Info office. Free Wi-Fi & BBQ. Buffalo meat. The town was getting ready for an International Street Performers festival.
This guy was going to walk across Canada on stilts.


Did I mention that the GreatPlains are flat?


We soon crossed back into British Columbia, CAN.
As we were leaving Dawson Creek & looking for a campsite I saw an A-10 Warthog taking off. We realized it was an airshow so joined the locals in a field nearby.





Quite a lot of fun. When it was over we set up camp in the field.
On an interesting note the pilot of one of the F-18s had to eject from his plane less than a week later. He was fine but the plane made a big ball of fire on impact. Here's the vid. Notice the song that's playing in the background. (http://www.break.com/index/pilot-eje...ore-crash.html)

One thing we did to keep away from bears is to eat dinner & brush our teeth miles before we set up camp. While doing so we met this group who had come all the way from Wyoming on this horse-drawn-wagon.


Found another great place to camp. This is the view out the window under the rain fly.


We next came through...


Jess went off to work on adjusting her tire & met a local, Max, who invited us to his fathers place. So rack of beer & we're on our way to hang out with Max (R) & Eve (L).

and Max's father Mars (L)

Good people & set us up right.

Found another gorgeous, free place to camp that night.


Stopped for gas & coffee at Toad River after crossing over the Rocky Mountains one last time. A bit cold today.


Nice hat collection there on the ceiling.


While nearing our destination for the day we saw a large male wolf or coyote, a male black bear, and our first bison.
We realized that this was our 8th day on the road since Calgary which was the last place we had showered so we camped at the Laird River Hot Springs. Ahhhh.



We hit the springs when we first got there, after dark, & the next morning.

We were almost out of BC. We saw these guys on the way.


But we finally reached


to be continued...
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls


JackL screwed with this post 11-18-2010 at 05:17 PM
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:22 PM   #34
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Le Grande Tour, The Yukon

A note on viewing. If the images are too large for your screen simply hold CTRL & scroll your mouse wheel.

Our first stop in the Yukon was Watson lake for lunch & the Sign Forest.



This one is funny because after all of the planets, etc is Vincennes, IN where I went to college.

This was Jess's favorite.

Mmm....cookies.


From Watson Lake you can either stay on the ALCAN & head west to Whitehorse or take a more northerly route towards Dawson City on Hwy 4. We chose the northerly route which started off well but soon turned into some nasty, slick, muddy construction.




Also we didn't know that the whole route was gravel. Mostly good high speed stuff but some new, deep sections that gave us a good test of our ability to ride it with all the gear.
We ended the day at Frances Lake.




The next day we began to get worried if Jess's bike would make it to the next gas stop but she rolled into Ross River on fumes at 240some miles.


As soon as we pulled up to the pump I realized I had a flat rear tire. Of all the uncivilized places I could have gotten one in the last 240 miles it happened in a town with an air pump & a bar. So we changed our first tire tube.



I'd helped a friend change a tube, once, so this was the first time we did one on our own. With patching the tube & letting it dry it took about 4 hours. I learned a few things as I went and managed not to puncture the tube.
As we rode to the bar for a well deserved pint the local RCMP stopped to ask how we were doing & directed us to free camping down by the river, near the ferry.


We set up camp & walked back to the bar for a few more & dinner. We quickly got to know the locals who decided 'Party at our place' so they loaded up their ATVs with booze & firewood and came on down.

In the background you can see the pedestrian bridge, the ferry, and on the right our friendly RCMP, Colin who dropped by.

And the sun sets on our camp.


One of the couples at our party, Doug (aka Asshole) and his wife Nicole invited us to stay in their travel trailer parked on their property. We were much hung over the next morning.
Fortunately Jess reminded me we were professionals and we rallied & made it to their house & then down the SCANOL (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canol_Road) road to a sheep hunting lodge.
It was a gorgeous drive & I highly recommend riding it if you get in the area.




The cabin with one of the guides, Clark. They had about 20 horses and tack there.


We were only there a short time before heading back. Here's Doug aka Asshole.


We stopped at a bridge to check out a native hunting cabin.




We spent another day in Ross River enjoying Yukon hospitality, bbq, and our first hot shower since Calgary & then headed off. My rear went flat again just out of town. The patch didn't hold so I threw in Jessica's inch to large spare tube. This time the change was only 1 hour.
On the way to Carmacks we saw a fox and a mama & 2 baby black bears. We missed the world famous cinnamon rolls around Minto
and camped near Pelly Crossing. We breakfasted nearby at Moose Creek.


Met a couple other riders, one on this excellent Tenere.


Up next Dawson City, which deserves a section of its own.

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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls


JackL screwed with this post 12-08-2010 at 04:09 PM
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:25 PM   #35
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This is the first time I appreciate having a large screen on my home PC.. awesome big pics... and what an adventure
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:02 PM   #36
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Thank you.
Great pics.
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:23 PM   #37
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Dawson City

Boy was this a great sight


We decided to splurge & stay at the hostel. $46/night for a private room with a balcony. The place had a sauna/steam room, bbq area, and other amenities.


Jess wasn't feeling well so I crossed back over the ferry to town.



Dawson really hasn't changed much since the 1890s. Still old buildings & dirt streets.








This building is home to the Sourdough Saloon which will be important later.


Jess got feeling better so we headed out about town. It was Thursday night so we figured there's be some action. We thought it was safe to park here because motorbikes are just modern horses.


We first passed this.

We then headed to the Sourtoe Saloon in the Downtown Hotel for a Sour Toe Cocktail. I'll just paste what Wikipedia says: "...
is famous for its "Sour Toe Cocktail,"
where a severed toe is offered in a drink (Yukon Jack for us), and the patron's lips have to touch the toe as the drink is consumed before passing the toe to the next glass.
It is a gross-out challenge that has been around the 1960s when the proprietor of the hotel bar discovered a preserved, pickled toe in a hunting cabin. The toe was accidentally
swallowed in 1980, and has been replaced by a number of donated toes. About 35,000 have taken the challenge."
They make you wear a hat. Jess was first.

That black object in the glass is the human toe.

Then me. Remember it's got to touch your lips or you don't get your membership card & certificate.


That's a pretty good indication of how the evening was going to progress. Later in the night we exited our 3rd or 4th bar somewhere around 11 PM,
on our way to dance to (bad) 80s music, & met Cuan & Leslie (on right).

Cuan grew up in Zimbabwe where his parents own a few safari companies. He had flown into New Orleans, picked up Leslie in Baton Rouge, & ridden to
Dawson City on a Honda 1200 cruiser. We immediately became friends & ended up spending the next week together although much of that was by chance.

The next day we realized that we had been on the road 1 month.
It just happened that the weekend we arrived was the Moosehide festival. What we down in the lower 48 would call a Native American Powow.
It was open to non-First Nations & free so we all went to check it out.
First they put you on a boat & take you down the Yukon River about 8 miles. (Leslie on right, Cuan seated center)


They entertain you with native & uh...other music and feed you. Lots of moose in these parts.
Some candid shots of the First Nations people.












After a while we cruised back upriver & I got a good shot of this old, wrecked steamship.


We all hung around the hostel & had some fun this night.




Next north, er, West to Alaska!
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls

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Old 12-02-2010, 10:00 PM   #38
Jettn Jim
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Look'n good Jack!
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:18 PM   #39
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Hello and good luck from a fellow Vincennes grad!
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Old 12-03-2010, 03:10 PM   #40
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Thanks

Thanks everybody. Glad you're enjoying the ride report. It's a lot of fun doing it and remembering the fun we had.
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls

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Old 12-03-2010, 03:50 PM   #41
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West to Alaska!

We got a late start out of Dawson after some work on Jess's bike. Our chosen route from here was due west on the 9 across the Top of the World Hwy. When we arrived in Dawson
we found it had been closed for a couple weeks because it had washed out. Fortunately it reopened the after we arrived. We found out much later that is closed again because of rain
only days after we went through. Another lucky break for us.
It was a gorgeous ride.




We crossed back into the US here.

This is the highest elevation & most northerly border crossing in the US and Canada. We learned from the border guards it's only open 6 months of the year.
They also wanted to know why all the motorcyclists that came through were headed to Deadhorse?

We had heard we could gas up in Boundary but they were out of gas so we pushed on, running on fumes, to Chicken, AK. Apparently Chicken was so named
because the founders couldn't agree on how to spell Ptarmigan.







While we were paying for gas the female cashier asks us "Are you Jack & Jessica?" We were surprised & she handed us a note from Cuan & Leslie who had
come through some hours before. It said they were going to camp somewhere near Delta Junction, which was farther than we were planning on getting today.

We continued on.


We gassed up in Tok (pronounced toke) and checked out Mukluk Land, a strange collection of, um, stuff we'd seen advertised in Chicken.










We continued on into the setting sun. Finally a combination of that & bugs smeared on our visors made us pull off to camp. We found, almost by accident,
a dirt road leading off by a stream. As we pulled in we saw a tent already there. My first thought was that we'd have to move on so we didn't disturb them.
Then I noticed the bike & Cuan's head popped out of the tent! They'd pulled off earlier than expected & we happened to pick the same pull off.
Since it was Cuan's birthday we all set down for a few beers over dinner around the bonfire.
We all rode of together the next day intending to go as far as Fairbanks together where we had an ADV Rider to stay with. About 130 miles after our last gas
stop Jess's bike died & acted like it was out of gas.
Jessica cleaned her air filter


and we all waited around while Cuan went for gas.


Gassed up we headed north & Leslie spied our first Moose.

A female with a youngling back in the trees.

Our next stop was the Knotty Shop for some fine ice cream.




Then on through North Pole, AK


and on into Fairbanks.


Next up Fairbanks to Deadhorse to Fairbanks.
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls


JackL screwed with this post 12-03-2010 at 04:07 PM
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:02 PM   #42
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Hi Jack,

Enjoyed your report so far. I love the sense of spontaneity.

On my monitor, it's a bit of pain having to zoom in and out to view the giant pictures and text that goes off the screen. I'd prefer if most of the pics were the same size, but maybe it's just me.
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:11 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superzoom View Post
Hi Jack,

Enjoyed your report so far. I love the sense of spontaneity.

On my monitor, it's a bit of pain having to zoom in and out to view the giant pictures and text that goes off the screen. I'd prefer if most of the pics were the same size, but maybe it's just me.
Thanks.
Yeah, the problem is Jess & I shoot at different resolutions. Mine are the big shots & hers the smaller ones. I haven't bothered to go in and adjust mine so you get some big variation.
She's recently gone larger so in the future they should be more similar.
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls

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Old 12-04-2010, 10:45 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackL View Post

2011 we will ride around the US over some of the route I did in the first Big Trip. We plan to winter in San Francisco, where I was born, that winter.

2012 we'll head to Central America. From there South America, Africa, Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, then down the island chains of the Pacific to Australia & New Zealand. The plan is to stop & work a lot along the way so we should finish sometime around 2030, give or take.


why rush things right?
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:24 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtflug View Post
why rush things right?

Exactly. Enjoy the trip & life.
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JackL
2007 KLR 650 aka the Green Max
1995 Ducati 900 SS/SP, Rose

The Big Trip (aka Le Grande Tour), Year 1
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585393

6 months in Europe on a Duc
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217104&highlight=jackl

JackLs Thailand/Cambodia Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=jackls

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