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Old 06-06-2010, 08:48 AM   #16
lkchris
Albuquerque
 
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashrubbery
The $2000 O-ring has to do with the oil cooler right?
NO!!!

ALL Airheads, perhaps especially '77-on.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:05 AM   #17
Jasper ST4
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That's what I meant to say, ride 'em hard and put 'em away wet. The bike too.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:11 AM   #18
Jasper ST4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopperman
Airheads wont respect you if you baby them. You gotta cane the living hell out of them or they start to pout and take up bad habits like smoking.
With proper care, the rear ends can take some abuse.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:18 PM   #19
durtwurm
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Wicked

Just wondering, but Chopperman and Jasper are we talkin' bikes or that other thing? Or both!
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Old 06-06-2010, 01:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
With proper care, the rear ends can take some abuse.
Are you kidding?

I rode my R90/6 for 200K hard, fast miles and the rear end got nothing but regular oil changes but when I sent it in for a respline, the gears and lash were perfect! The rear ends are definitely the most over engineered part of those bikes and the bottom ends are right behind.

When it comes to questions about how to ride an Airhead, I always remind guys that Airheads are very similar to vintage Air cooled VWs. The engines like to be kept above 3000 rpm, you never want to lug it and frequent oil changes are recommended.

For the guys who find the "rubber cow" syndrome annoying, a few chassis mods, a fork rebuild and some really good shocks will yield a very good handling back road flier. I love mine!

If you can afford to send a bike to a mechanic for maintenance, there are better/more modern bike out there that'll run rings around my modified R90 but by doing my own wrenching, I've been able to ride classic, high end motorcycles for the last 30 years.

If thats the deal, I'll take it!


PS: Once you understand that "$2K oil change" thing, it's no big deal.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:03 AM   #21
boxerboy81
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Jasper mentioned the gearbox. They require "a technique".

Up gears...
This description all happens just about simultaneously...
1. Left foot preloaded under gear lever.
2. Clutch lever in/throttle momentarily closed
3. Snick gear lever up into next gear
4. Clutch lever out/throttle back on.
Giddy up!

Down gears..blip the throttle a tad as you clutch and click down.
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:55 AM   #22
P B G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durtwurm
It is easier to change the oil without a cooler, so yes be happy.
But it is kind of nice to pump some of that heat out of your engine's oil.

I wish I had a cooler, but don't want one on my oil filter cover.

Also, there is a certain technique required to forget about any clattering noises that you may think signal the death of your bike. As it is probably normal.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:21 AM   #23
RecycledRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
Also, there is a certain technique required to forget about any clattering noises that you may think signal the death of your bike. As it is probably normal.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:44 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81
Jasper mentioned the gearbox. They require "a technique".

Up gears...
This description all happens just about simultaneously...
1. Left foot preloaded under gear lever.
2. Clutch lever in/throttle momentarily closed
3. Snick gear lever up into next gear
4. Clutch lever out/throttle back on.
Giddy up!

Down gears..blip the throttle a tad as you clutch and click down.
Good description. I got the tip to try preloading, and the finer details of your description just came with getting used to the old girl.
I only have to worry about preloading until I hit third, and after that it is worry free.
Another good tip I followed up was to put some Morey's oil (thick snotty oil stabiliser) in the transmission oil (and drive shaft and final drive). I did about 20% being the maximum recommended. It really does quieten down and smooth out shifting and the whole drivetrain. My mates R75/7 enjoyed the same improvements after the morey's change.
I do think I have to watch lugging my old girl though- I am in bad habits from driving my BJ42 diesel donk. It redlines at about 4.5K IIRC
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:00 AM   #25
Beater
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Essentially what others have said is right on. I have 120K on my 78' R100 .. 191Km. I haven't touched my bottom end (besides changing oil regularly) ... my transmission sounds like a box of rocks, but hasn't been touched either (yes! It has 120K miles on it!)

I rode her to work this morning (70mph, through Atlanta City traffic) ... reliable as hell ... funner than a tornado in a trailer park.

Nothing says love like a little spanking. Am I right or what?
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:30 PM   #26
bikecat
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Got a new to me airhead. What's the "rubber cow" effect exactly?
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:07 AM   #27
110Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durtwurm
It is easier to change the oil without a cooler, so yes be happy.
Change oilfilter you mean?!

Draining and refilling is the same whatever Airhead you have.... not?

Mike
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:29 AM   #28
boxerboy81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikecat
Got a new to me airhead. What's the "rubber cow" effect exactly?
When a cow gets up off the ground, it raises its rear end first.

When you accelerate an airhead, it also raises the rear. Gummikuh is deutsche for "rubber cow".
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:01 AM   #29
Wirespokes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81
When a cow gets up off the ground, it raises its rear end first.

When you accelerate an airhead, it also raises the rear. Gummikuh is deutsche for "rubber cow".
Never thought of it that way - guess I'll have to watch cows to see if this is really true.

And the 'rubber' part has to do with the 'hinged-in-the-middle feeling' one can get cornering on rough pavement, as if the frame is made of rubber. Knowing how to ride these things pretty well solves that problem.
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:04 PM   #30
The Raven
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The $2000 O-ring...blah I took a hammer to mine and all was well....don't listen to these fools

No, seriously, be careful with that thing...bad things can happen if it gets damaged.....poor engineering IMHO though. I dread my next filter change as I'll keep the hammer in the tool box.

Tool progression...micrometer, small file, big file, small screwdriver for prying, big screwdriver for the same, Prybar-small then big, Rubber mallet, plastic mallet, brass hammer, finish hammer, framing hammer, 3lb hammer, Rock, small then big.....if all else fails shoot it starting with a .22 and end with the .308.
If it does not run after all that you did something wrong and repeat....I'm rambing WTF
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