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Old 04-11-2005, 01:42 PM   #16
ChrisC
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fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
just for fun i'll put a couple sticky thermocouples on my nads and run them through to a data logger. lets see what happens.
.
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Old 04-11-2005, 01:47 PM   #17
AusieRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocibiker
I want to add a switch that will allow me to override the LH fan and turn it on whenever I want (FAN1). Additionally, I'd like the same switch to kick on the 2nd (RH) fan (FAN2) when necessary leaving the LH fan running. Default or off switch position would return everything to it's standard set-up (FAN1 comes on based on temp). Can this even be done with a single mechanical switch?
Yes,it is possible. But before we create a design why do you think this is a good way to do it?
I'm doing the same mod (dual fans) to mine. My take of this is - I'm adding the dual fans to increase cooling when hot. So if the temp sensor comes on I want max cooling... So, I'm putting the 2 fans parallel across the temp sensor circuits, with (maybe) a manual override switch across the circuit as well.
But what you ask can be done but just think about the additional wiring & complexity which equals more chance to F-up or to be F-uped...
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:56 PM   #18
AusieRob
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Here's some ideas on how to wire as you asked. You can use relays instead etc.. The wiring shown is indicative.
Enjoy.....
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:08 AM   #19
Velocibiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusieRob
Yes,it is possible. But before we create a design why do you think this is a good way to do it?
...
Simply because I don't want to double the current draw all at once. I want to be pre-emptive and want to be able to kick on FAN1 at will. Then, if I see that just the one isn't cutting it (which it often doesn't), I can kick on FAN2.

My fan normally only comes on when I'm stuck in traffic or riding slow & hard in the dirt. I can't do anything if I'm stuck in traffic, so I want the override and extra fan ability. If I'm running too hot in the dirt, there's always the option to just stop or find a less technical route to cool it back down.

Sure. Simplest way would just be to splice the new fan into the existing fan circuit - but what fun would that be?

and thanks for the diagram!!
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:16 PM   #20
txrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusieRob

Here's some ideas on how to wire as you asked. You can use relays instead etc.. The wiring shown is indicative.
Enjoy.....
I know my bike is a '96 and all, but the '96 thermal switch doesn't ground, it's a switch with 2 terminals.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:32 PM   #21
Happe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapiti
Went on a woods ride yesterday, and had some cooling issues. This has been brewing for a while, and I have some questions.

1) Do the "supercool" (I forget the names) liquids do more harm than good? Better than ionized water? Recommendations (that you have used!)

2) The idiot light comes on 62 seconds before the fan kicks in. What's up with that? The fan used to come on first by a good while. What deterioration is this a sign of?

3) After riding with the idjut light on for a while, the trail crossed the road, and I went for a cruise on the road to get some air flow. It took a lot longer than I had expected for the temp. light to go out. Later, I even had it come on while doing 55-60 on the road! Does this point to the water pump? Where else?

I plan on flushing the radiators, checking the thermostat, and maybe replacing the water pump impeller. This is all new to me. Any hints/suggestions? I apologize if this has been covered before. Search (and my memory) isn't what it once was...

Gracias,

Paolo

Hi Rapiti,

just a quick one,
the temperature gauge is where on your bike (should be near the cyl head in the small cool circuit before the thermostat.)
The tempswitch for the Fan is where? (should be near the bottom of the right radiator and in the big cooling circuit behind the thermostat)
Three guesses what makes trouble in your cooling system

cheers

Stefan

If you need more cooling rip out the thermostat like on the Rally bikes ;-)

Happe screwed with this post 04-12-2005 at 02:07 PM
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Old 04-12-2005, 03:32 PM   #22
AusieRob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txrider
I know my bike is a '96 and all, but the '96 thermal switch doesn't ground, it's a switch with 2 terminals.
Well you maybe right, BUT you sure one of those terminals isn't wired back to a ground point, somewhere? I would be surprised if it was done much differently to what's shown... I didn't have a KTM wiring diagram in my pocket at the time and I did say "The wiring shown is indicative" ...
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:17 PM   #23
RedDread
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Overheat and low pressure clutch correlation?

This thread is nearly a decade old but relevant to my decade old ride.
A couple of years ago my 640 overheated and blew off the hose linking the radiators. Once that was addressed the clutch bled out. I replaces everything clutch associated from the handlebar to the motor case and the problem stopped. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=131919&page=2

This August the old lady and I were tooling around on Highland Valley Trail when the "TOO DAMD HOT" red light flared up, and the bleeding clutch lost pressure again!

Anybody else out there seen this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapiti View Post
While attempting to sort out my clutch woes, the temp light came on while the bike was idling at rest. after a minute or so, the fan hadn't come on. I have been blaming the temp light sensor for this, more than the fan sensor, or whatever trips the fan motor on.

On a whim, I thought to open the radiator cap, after shutting her down. Steam! Spew! A bit of green AF on the floor!


Just to recap: No clutch. No Fan. Overheating on a 50 degree day.

I have the Evans stuff, along with the flush. Sounds like I need to look at temp. sensors. I keep have nagging thoughts of clogged galleys in the head, but the oil is always clean

Sounds like after clutch is resolved, I have some other details to work on.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:30 PM   #24
Happe
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HI there,

you need to swap the temp sensor for the Fan, right radiator bottom.
If on ride and it runs on idle for 5 minutes the fan should come on.
The warning light sensor sits in the cylinder head and there it will be even hotter than in the radiator.
Also swap the radiator cap. If the hoses blow before the capvalve releases preassure something is not good with the cap.

The hydraulic slave cylinder of the Lc4 early models, 03 & 04 are known for leaking. There're a few aftermarket billed ones available, get one of them and the leaking is history. Or get one of the last Lc4 models 06/07

cu
Stefan
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #25
bmwktmbill
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Make sure the electrical connections to the sensor are tight.

If the fan cycles it's not the sensor.

Any air bubbles in the radiator when you run with the cap off?

bill
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:18 PM   #26
Dee Cee
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Question Coolant hoses

Hi all,
I have a 2003 Adv that I have owned for nearly nine years and I really love this bike. So I am giving it a birthday present and I am going to go right through the whole bike, it has over 80,000 kls of faithfull outback travel under her belt and as we all know there isn't much out there straight out of the box that stacks up to these old girls.
Has anybody replaced their coolant hoses with the silicon ones available around the traps? There seems to be two versions, one is twice the price from the UK and I guess that the cheaper ones are Chinese based one way or another.

All advice greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:53 PM   #27
Hipster
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I've been happy with ASI brand Silicone hoses from China, just make sure you buy hose clamps made for the softer Silicone hoses.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:00 AM   #28
Dee Cee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipster View Post
I've been happy with ASI brand Silicone hoses from China, just make sure you buy hose clamps made for the softer Silicone hoses.
What's the difference with the these type of clamps?
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:00 AM   #29
Laromonster
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the edge of the clamp is rolled slightly over, so it wont cut into the hosematerial
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:05 AM   #30
Hipster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Cee View Post
What's the difference with the these type of clamps?
The hose clamps have a smooth liner so they don't cut into the softer Silicone material, as shown here http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...ctImageWrapper
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