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Old 06-13-2010, 07:42 PM   #1
riceless950 OP
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Cry Blown Head or Base Gasket

I think one of those gaskets is gone. I have investigated yet but I had an oil leak, then I saw some coolant mixed in too.
My question is, will the cylinder come off with the motor in the frame? It looks like the head will... I hope. From what I can see, the leak seems to be up high.

At first I thought it was coming from the Oil Pressure Sensor.




But that wasn't it.

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Old 06-13-2010, 08:30 PM   #2
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Try this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433598

I don't envy you.
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:29 PM   #3
dabracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceless950
My question is, will the cylinder come off with the motor in the frame?
Front...yes, rear...no.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:08 PM   #4
Dale950
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You certain it's not the Oil Switch as Ive just done mine and it made a huge mess just likes yours the oil spewed up higher and down the opp side as well
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:12 PM   #5
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Sucky. Good luck repairing it. Talk to mike (gearheart) about motor work on the 950.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:32 PM   #6
TrentW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale950
You certain it's not the Oil Switch as Ive just done mine and it made a huge mess just likes yours the oil spewed up higher and down the opp side as well
+1

I've also seen a mess similar to yours and it was the Oil Pressure sensor leaking.

Clean it all up and check the Oil Pressure sensor again...
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:34 AM   #7
DirtyADV
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Just hope its a simple gasket and not the "pyndon syndrome": http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1161


/Johan
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:21 PM   #8
adiablolex
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Hey man, on the first picture it looks like its coming from one of the coolant hoses/clamps looks wet up top.
I'd be checking everything up there,(one of my clamps was starting losen up and seep slowly at 35k) if nothing found guilty, remove cams and retorque head bolts, give her a nice wash, reasemble and go for another bashing to verify leak.
Better to get more evidence before you drop the motor

....unless of course you've done all that already
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:10 PM   #9
riceless950 OP
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Thanks for all the ideas guys.
This weekend I'm gonna investigate further (again).

I'm hopeful about the oil sensor being the cause. Picked up a new washer today.

Second choice would be the hoses.

Next, the gasket and last, the nightmare would be the "Pydon Syndrome". My mileage is 66,000, about the same as his was when it happened.

I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:11 PM   #10
Nowwhat
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yeah....yeah....at least yours still has a charge in the battery....


Ok...buy a couple 12 packs....2 large meatlover pizzas...crank up some of those tunes of yours and I will come over and help you load that beast into your truck...
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:31 PM   #11
Desertdweller
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Might be the rubber seal on the starter where it attaches to the motor.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:45 PM   #12
Desertdweller
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The front cylinder can be pulled off by taking out two of the motor mount bolts, and allowing the engine to adjust downward (hang) under its own weight until the cylinder clears the frame.

I haven't done it myself (yet), but that's how the chief mechanic at Malcolm's told me it could be done. Sounds a lot easier than separating the motor from the frame.
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Old 06-17-2010, 01:06 AM   #13
Dale950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceless950
Thanks for all the ideas guys.
This weekend I'm gonna investigate further (again).

I'm hopeful about the oil sensor being the cause. Picked up a new washer today.
.
If it is the oil switch , it most likely be the switch it self Riceless not the washer , you will be able to blow air through the unit as the ceramic material will be cracked . I found you need a long socket too to take it out .
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertdweller
The front cylinder can be pulled off by taking out two of the motor mount bolts, and allowing the engine to adjust downward (hang) under its own weight until the cylinder clears the frame.

I haven't done it myself (yet), but that's how the chief mechanic at Malcolm's told me it could be done. Sounds a lot easier than separating the motor from the frame.
I can understand how this is easier and less hassle but you have already done 95% of the work to pull the complete engine. With the engine out of the frame, it is SO much easier to work on everything, clean everything and inspect other areas to make sure that they are fine. Now you can lube, grease and check over the complete engine and chassis.
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:48 PM   #15
riceless950 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9nine0
I can understand how this is easier and less hassle but you have already done 95% of the work to pull the complete engine. With the engine out of the frame, it is SO much easier to work on everything, clean everything and inspect other areas to make sure that they are fine. Now you can lube, grease and check over the complete engine and chassis.
The answer to this one is easy. Because I prefer riding to wrenching. Riding is a sickness for me...an addiction...a gotta have it kind of thing.

As evidence of this, If the leak is the switch itself (as suggested by Dale950 thanks Dale) and I don't have a new one to put back in, I'm screwin' in a bolt and goin' for a ride.

Oh and thanks also to Desertdweller for the starter seal and pivoting the motor ideas. I'll check the starter for sure.

riceless950 screwed with this post 06-17-2010 at 04:53 PM
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