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Old 04-14-2014, 05:36 PM   #2056
KTM450SX
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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Mine runs 4-5 or so bars all the time.

It doesn't really get any hotter in the summer. I have had it get to full bars one time in mid summer riding slow. I shut it down and let it cool down.

I can't remember how it ran with the stock tank.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:50 PM   #2057
JRod152
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Mine usually runs 4-5 bars as well.

Here is a reference for the correlating temps...

Guage Temps

When I had issues with fuel vapor, the bike was by no means too hot... not even over 5 bars. The fans seem to do the trick in the slow going. Rather, I feel its the 225 degree heat being blown past the unshielded fuel lines, fuel fittings, fuel pump, etc. that causes the issue. I assume a larger amount of fuel in the tank would lessen this likelihood, but once the fuel is heated to a certain temp, then put into a very small space like the fuel line, it gets heated again by an exhaust header, radiator, and causes issues for "any" style of fuel pump. The gas can boil in the tank or lines as low as 160 degrees F, I believe. At this point, if the vapors cant find their way up the carb or tank vents, it's trapped, & the pump wont pump it. If it gets out, it's waisted. Ever wonder why your fuel economy really takes a dump in the slow-going?

Another observation FWIW...
It's common practice after some slow going for guys to shut the bike off, turn the key to run, & let the fans run. That will certainly cool the radiator temps down, but it doesn't really help the motor until you start it again. You then have fuel vapor in the lines that will vent through the tank vents or carb vents, hopefully. When you go to start it again before cooled down, don't be surprised to hear the lovely pop pop pop of the plunger go crazy trying to pump something that's not there.

An ADV's fuel lines, IIRC, are below the radiator and in a more open environment with lower ambient temps & less reflective heat.

This is an easy problem to solve, I just need to get off my tail & do it.
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:51 AM   #2058
Sumi
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Hi!

Does anybody have a picture ilustrated write-up on how to get to the stock fuel pump on the SE?
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:57 AM   #2059
Monterey_BS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
Hi!

Does anybody have a picture ilustrated write-up on how to get to the stock fuel pump on the SE?
It's external and on the left tank wing. You can see it from underneath. What are you trying to do?


Sorry, no pics, but here's the protocol I use:
Close both fuel taps
disconnect fuel lines from taps
remove left and right tank covers (4 screws/washers)
remove horn cover from left wing (2 screws/washers)
disconnect horn electrical
disconnect pump and low fuel sensor electrical (they're bundled with horn, so just trace back to the harness and pull to front)
remove tank bolts (1ea side and top front)
disconnect fuel supply from pump (now that the tank is loose you can get to pump inlet line. On the stock tank, if memory serves, it's on the "back" of the pump coming in from the bottom. With the tank free you should be able to wiggle it around to get enough access.)
Pull tank to gain free access to do whatever you need to do.

(n.b., My next recommendation is to go buy a vacuum pump and install it on the frame, so you can forget about fuel delivery forever.)
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Old 04-15-2014, 04:21 PM   #2060
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monterey_BS View Post
It's external and on the left tank wing. You can see it from underneath. What are you trying to do?


Sorry, no pics, but here's the protocol I use:
Close both fuel taps
disconnect fuel lines from taps
remove left and right tank covers (4 screws/washers)
remove horn cover from left wing (2 screws/washers)
disconnect horn electrical
disconnect pump and low fuel sensor electrical (they're bundled with horn, so just trace back to the harness and pull to front)
remove tank bolts (1ea side and top front)
disconnect fuel supply from pump (now that the tank is loose you can get to pump inlet line. On the stock tank, if memory serves, it's on the "back" of the pump coming in from the bottom. With the tank free you should be able to wiggle it around to get enough access.)
Pull tank to gain free access to do whatever you need to do.

(n.b., My next recommendation is to go buy a vacuum pump and install it on the frame, so you can forget about fuel delivery forever.)
Thanks! I'm installing the Dr Beans kit on a friends SE.
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:50 PM   #2061
JustinT
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Is there specifics to steering stem nut? I have the manual and it says to tighten cap till no play, then collar bolt to 20 Nm. Then release pressure from Cap nut? Seems straight forward but not much torque to get the play out and feels like it should be tighter but I guess well see after my 2day 600 miles of gravel. That being said it did need grease.

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Old 04-16-2014, 12:55 PM   #2062
Sumi
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TY once again Monterey_BS, everything went fine based on your writeup:) (got to love the SE, it's way easier to work on it, than the adv..)
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Old 04-16-2014, 12:55 PM   #2063
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It should just be tight enough to prevent any slop in the headset, but not so tight that it causes binding.

The bolt on the side is what holds everything on.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:31 PM   #2064
Brown Dog
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Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
... (got to love the SE, it's way easier to work on it, than the adv..)
Listen to this wise man

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Old 04-17-2014, 03:54 PM   #2065
stevh0
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Can you fit 990R cams or 950SMR/SD cams on the 950 SE to give it more "hit" up top?
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:19 AM   #2066
grant22
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Search isn't helping.

My fuel light is on after filling up. It's been like that for about 20 miles. Any ideas?
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:42 AM   #2067
stevh0
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Mine takes some time to go off too. Ride 50 miles and see if its still on.

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Old 04-19-2014, 09:58 AM   #2068
grant22
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I hope that's all it is. Thx
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:35 AM   #2069
Dan950ser
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The fuel light should only take five miles to go off after filling up.
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:53 AM   #2070
DangerMoney
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Mine takes about 20 to go off.
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