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Old 07-17-2014, 01:12 PM   #2176
1derer
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Passenger Pegs - Wanted

Anyone willing to sell me their used / unused SE passenger pegs? PM me Paypal preferred.
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:31 AM   #2177
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Try the Yamaha xt660 pegs. they fit plus a lot cheaper
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:43 PM   #2178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1derer View Post
Anyone willing to sell me their used / unused SE passenger pegs? PM me Paypal preferred.
Pretty sure I have a couple sets. Both used. Will check and PM you tonight or in the am.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:46 PM   #2179
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Anyone know if the '07 660 Rally front fender will fit the SE forks? I compared microfiche and it looks close. Before I give my wallet a heart attack figured I better ask you all. Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:34 AM   #2180
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Pretty sure I have a couple sets. Both used. Will check and PM you tonight or in the am.
Taken care of!!
Thanks
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:31 PM   #2181
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Taken care of!!
Thanks
Ok. Glad you got some.
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:14 PM   #2182
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Anybody know if this ever happened or the thread title if it had one? I've searched and didn't find it. Thanks.

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Old 08-16-2014, 04:55 PM   #2183
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Finally replacing chain, front & rear sprockets on my girl. What chain breaker & rivet tool did you/guys use? What manufacture did you/guys use for sprockets & chain as well? Installing TMDesigns slider & guides as well Thanks for your input!

RIDE ON!
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:34 PM   #2184
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Alright, here's a few hypothetical questions for you guys. Given that KTM built and sold a 950 Adventure, a 990 Super Duke, and a 950 Super Enduro. And now builds a 1190 Adventure and a 1290 Super Duke R. Would you like to see a successor to the 950 Super Enduro built, possibly powered by the 192(with the Akropovic) hp monster engine from the 1290 Super Duke R? If so, how do you think it would ride? Given the focus on electronics, could similar technology be used to make a theoretical 1290 Super Enduro R usable in the dirt? Even with the full 192hp? Or would it have to limited down like the 1190 in "Off Road" mode?
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:54 AM   #2185
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Chain and Sprockets

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzrtracin View Post
Finally replacing chain, front & rear sprockets on my girl. What chain breaker & rivet tool did you/guys use? What manufacture did you/guys use for sprockets & chain as well? Installing TMDesigns slider & guides as well Thanks for your input!

RIDE ON!
I went with DID 525 ZVM-X X-Ring, OEM CS 16T, KTM Stealth (Super Sprox) 45 rear for dirt and 42 rear for SM mode, BRP guide, and have a Motion Pro Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool (08-0058) good for #35-#630 chains. Works for me.
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:02 AM   #2186
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I went with DID 525 ZVM-X X-Ring, OEM CS 16T, KTM Stealth (Super Sprox) 45 rear for dirt and 42 rear for SM mode, BRP guide, and have a Motion Pro Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool (08-0058) good for #35-#630 chains. Works for me.
Fuddy,
How was it putting on the rear sprocket, pretty straight forward ? Anything to watch out for ..I've changed out a front but never a rear.
Thanks Barclay
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:04 PM   #2187
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Fuddy,
How was it putting on the rear sprocket, pretty straight forward ? Anything to watch out for ..I've changed out a front but never a rear.
Thanks Barclay
easy peasy... but there are a couple things to watch for. Everyone has their way of changing them out, this is how I do mine and it only takes a few minutes.

I have a center stand, so that makes it easy. you don't have to do it this way as you can loosen the nuts with the wheel off the bike as well, but I found it easier to loosen the rear sprocket nuts first (just break them free), BEFORE I take the wheel off. I put the bike in 1st gear and then take a 17mm open end wrench and then crack each nut loose about 1/2 a turn or so (grab the clutch spin to the next nut, etc)…just like you break nuts loose on a car/truck wheel before you fully jack the vehicle up. I then pull the wheel and put it up on a waist high bench. Grab the entire sprocket and cush hub and pull it out. I then switch to 17mm thin wall socket (wrench just as easy) to pull the rest of the nuts off while holding the bolt in its recess with my left hand. be sure not to lose the cush hub rubber bushings and note they only go in one way. Pull the sprocket off, put the new one on and reverse what you did. You can take the sprocket off without removing the cush hub, but if you do be careful your wrench and the nut do not "chew" up the wheel hub as the nut gets close to the wheel hub (nuts require wrenching almost all the way off as they are a crush-type lock nut). Some folks just slightly back the hub out to make room and then slide the hub back in when they get the new sprocket on. I like removing the hub so I can check the bushings each time and not mark up my Woody's RAD Hubs. After you've done it a few times its a 15 minute job max start to finish including taking the wheel off and on. even on the LC8 I sometimes switch between a 45 and 42 right before a ride just like you would on a thumper. It's that easy. Good luck.

oldfuddy screwed with this post 08-17-2014 at 04:55 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #2188
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For anyone interested, there is a 950SM for sale on the Reno CL, and the owner (for some reason) has an extra set of SM wheels/tires/rotors for the bike. He is only asking $4600 for the bike WITH WHEELS so I imagine the wheels alone could be had for maybe $500 or so. If anyone is interested in running a set of 17's on their SE, this is a great set of wheels to use. The rear slides right in and the front needs a pretty simple one-time mod (but it will never go back on a SM). I did my wheels for really cheap, but I was still into them $800 or $900 with rotors when it was all said and done. And then I had to buy tires! This could be a really good deal!
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:58 PM   #2189
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and the front needs a pretty simple one-time mod (but it will never go back on a SM).
tell me more
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:08 PM   #2190
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tell me more

The SM wheel needs to be put on a mill so the rotor mounting surface can be shaved by 4mm so that the rotor will line up with the SE/Adv caliper. You could then run a 4mm spacer and put the wheel back on a SM, but no ones gonna do that. If you aren't confortable with going to a machine shop to have this done, CJRacer sells a rotor adaptor that also works. With the rim shave you run SM rotors, with CJ's adaptor you run SE/Adv rotors.
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