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Old 06-14-2014, 05:02 PM   #2191
pfdskipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenmotarded View Post
Cross post loopback from photo thread:


How many of you have reinforced your sub frames and where is the normal failure point aka what needs to be strengthened?
Heres a link to my subframe failure story. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=558791

Got the new subframe beefed up prior to instal, 20,000 miles later, no problems at all.

The common failure point can be seen here:



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Old 06-15-2014, 02:01 AM   #2192
DavidKXF
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The reason I painted the rear part black.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:33 AM   #2193
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Awesome! Thanks for the link and pics, I prefer preemptive to reactive modification.
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frickenmotarded screwed with this post 06-16-2014 at 06:43 AM
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:12 AM   #2194
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Guess who's fan is not working.



Checked the fuse and it's fine. Any other ideas?
So I ripped the tank off today and then tested the fan, which worked fine mind you. My overflow bottle seemed good for level so initially I thought my radiator coolant level would be okay. NOT

It took at least 500ml of coolant. Fired the bike up and it idled forever to get the fans to come on, which they did. So, great, everything works. But how did I lose the coolant? I dont have a leak.


Can anybody suggest a less painful way of checking your radiator level without stripping the bike?
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:28 PM   #2195
grant22
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How many miles on the bike? Any white smoke from the pipes? Have you checked the oil for coolant contamination or your oil filter for wavy pleats? All signs of coolant transferring to the oil.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:25 PM   #2196
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25k miles.

No smoke, oil is clean and so is the filter. This is a mystery. Lol
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:09 PM   #2197
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Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
So I ripped the tank off today and then tested the fan, which worked fine mind you. My overflow bottle seemed good for level so initially I thought my radiator coolant level would be okay. NOT

It took at least 500ml of coolant. Fired the bike up and it idled forever to get the fans to come on, which they did. So, great, everything works. But how did I lose the coolant? I dont have a leak.


Can anybody suggest a less painful way of checking your radiator level without stripping the bike?
When I saw your first post I was going to reply "check your radiator level" - I had exactly the same issue.
The problem is the radiator cap not functioning properly. Replace it.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:11 PM   #2198
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It's brand new. Like probably 200 miles.

Should I replace it again?
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:13 PM   #2199
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Just to get things straight. The fan won't come on if there is not sufficient water in the radiator.

If the bike was run with no water or low water would freeway riding get the temps to normal ie 4 bars or will it still run hot.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:21 PM   #2200
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Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
It's brand new. Like probably 200 miles.

Should I replace it again?
Hm.

Well, you are likely losing some coolant via your water pump seal.
There may or may not be evidence in the oil. In my case the filter was barely perceptibly wavey.

However, if you are losing coolant, then the rad cap should be sucking coolant back in from the reservoir container. If its not, theres something wrong there. In my case, I replaced the rad cap and it started sucking back coolant like it was supposed to. At least I could see how much I was consuming.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:26 PM   #2201
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Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
Just to get things straight. The fan won't come on if there is not sufficient water in the radiator.
Correct.
The temp switch that brings the fan on is measuring water temp. If theres no water, there is nothing to activate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
If the bike was run with no water or low water would freeway riding get the temps to normal ie 4 bars or will it still run hot.
Depends a lot on the ambient temperatures. It will run hot - but I was surprised just how much air cooling there was. In mild ambient temps (22deg C) gentle riding had the temps down to 4-5 bars. A hill climb would bring it up.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:33 PM   #2202
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The coolant moves up and down in the res tank. I was just a little shocked with the res tank was on its mark and the radiator needed a lot of coolant (bike was cold)


Is the radiator cap accessible with the stock tank? I cant see myself being able to top it up with the safari tank (without taking the thing off)

Im going to go do another 2-300km ride, park it for the night and then check the level the next day. Its the only way Id be able to see if there are any issues. I might as well do an oil change sometime again soon too.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:49 PM   #2203
pfdskipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
It's brand new. Like probably 200 miles.

Should I replace it again?

Was the coolant level ok 200 miles ago when the cap was replaced?

I too have the safari tank. I can take my cap off just fine with the tank mounted. A little speculation here BUT, are you sure that you haven't somehow damaged your radiator? Perhaps your radiator has taken a hit, which would explain the cap removal issue, and now has a subtle leak

What skid plate are you using? Some other safari owners have damaged their radiators at the bottom when using the BDCW plate.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:12 AM   #2204
BENRON
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How long are your Clutch's lasting?

I've got about 30K miles on my SE and I don't know if the clutch has ever been done...
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:34 AM   #2205
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The mystery coolant leak

My SE would drop coolant level for a while and I found it to be the large T in the coolant hose between the pump and the rad. Most of the time it was dry but the very odd time it had moisture around the edge of one of the hoses. I replaced the factory clamps with good quality gear clamps and my level has never moved again. Not an easy thing to detect while riding or sitting cool in the shop. Right time right place to find it.
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