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Old 08-17-2014, 11:02 AM   #2236
pizzaboy
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Originally Posted by oldfuddy View Post
I went with DID 525 ZVM-X X-Ring, OEM CS 16T, KTM Stealth (Super Sprox) 45 rear for dirt and 42 rear for SM mode, BRP guide, and have a Motion Pro Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool (08-0058) good for #35-#630 chains. Works for me.
Fuddy,
How was it putting on the rear sprocket, pretty straight forward ? Anything to watch out for ..I've changed out a front but never a rear.
Thanks Barclay
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:04 PM   #2237
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Originally Posted by pizzaboy View Post
Fuddy,
How was it putting on the rear sprocket, pretty straight forward ? Anything to watch out for ..I've changed out a front but never a rear.
Thanks Barclay
easy peasy... but there are a couple things to watch for. Everyone has their way of changing them out, this is how I do mine and it only takes a few minutes.

I have a center stand, so that makes it easy. you don't have to do it this way as you can loosen the nuts with the wheel off the bike as well, but I found it easier to loosen the rear sprocket nuts first (just break them free), BEFORE I take the wheel off. I put the bike in 1st gear and then take a 17mm open end wrench and then crack each nut loose about 1/2 a turn or so (grab the clutch spin to the next nut, etc)…just like you break nuts loose on a car/truck wheel before you fully jack the vehicle up. I then pull the wheel and put it up on a waist high bench. Grab the entire sprocket and cush hub and pull it out. I then switch to 17mm thin wall socket (wrench just as easy) to pull the rest of the nuts off while holding the bolt in its recess with my left hand. be sure not to lose the cush hub rubber bushings and note they only go in one way. Pull the sprocket off, put the new one on and reverse what you did. You can take the sprocket off without removing the cush hub, but if you do be careful your wrench and the nut do not "chew" up the wheel hub as the nut gets close to the wheel hub (nuts require wrenching almost all the way off as they are a crush-type lock nut). Some folks just slightly back the hub out to make room and then slide the hub back in when they get the new sprocket on. I like removing the hub so I can check the bushings each time and not mark up my Woody's RAD Hubs. After you've done it a few times its a 15 minute job max start to finish including taking the wheel off and on. even on the LC8 I sometimes switch between a 45 and 42 right before a ride just like you would on a thumper. It's that easy. Good luck.

oldfuddy screwed with this post 08-17-2014 at 04:55 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #2238
brents347
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For anyone interested, there is a 950SM for sale on the Reno CL, and the owner (for some reason) has an extra set of SM wheels/tires/rotors for the bike. He is only asking $4600 for the bike WITH WHEELS so I imagine the wheels alone could be had for maybe $500 or so. If anyone is interested in running a set of 17's on their SE, this is a great set of wheels to use. The rear slides right in and the front needs a pretty simple one-time mod (but it will never go back on a SM). I did my wheels for really cheap, but I was still into them $800 or $900 with rotors when it was all said and done. And then I had to buy tires! This could be a really good deal!
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:58 PM   #2239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brents347 View Post
and the front needs a pretty simple one-time mod (but it will never go back on a SM).
tell me more
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:08 PM   #2240
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tell me more

The SM wheel needs to be put on a mill so the rotor mounting surface can be shaved by 4mm so that the rotor will line up with the SE/Adv caliper. You could then run a 4mm spacer and put the wheel back on a SM, but no ones gonna do that. If you aren't confortable with going to a machine shop to have this done, CJRacer sells a rotor adaptor that also works. With the rim shave you run SM rotors, with CJ's adaptor you run SE/Adv rotors.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:19 PM   #2241
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Ok, I have cj's adaptor on mine. This just would have been much cheaper option.
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:51 PM   #2242
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Ayudame - oil everywhere SE

I´ll try some quick questions first and if more involved go OC.

I am stuck in Uruguay at the moment (and not at the beach) with a lot of oil going into the airbox.

The quick questions are: where is the oneway valve between the Oil tank and the motor on a 2008 950 SE? And what is the part number of the oneway valve on the motor breather hose. I can't find the part in the microfiche.

TIA
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:09 PM   #2243
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Part number 60030090300 check valve,its located on the breather hose that goes from your flywheel cover to the top of airbox.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:46 PM   #2244
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Thanks johnno, where did you find it?

Any idea on the other one? Is there a check valve on the Enduro? I see it for the 990 and presume because the oil tank is up higher. Still seems like there would be something regulating how much oil goes to the engine say on a long climb. Is the oil level in the engine the same as in the SE tank? Can´t be.
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:16 PM   #2245
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I got the part number out of the parts book that i got with the bike,page 30 (ignition system),i dont know of any other check vavle but sure someone here will know.If your balance shaft seal is worn etc it will vent oil into airbox part no 0760122050 and gasket if required 60030040100,easy job that is well documented in the oc forum,hope you get it sorted..ride and enjoy!
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:40 PM   #2246
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#40 is the breather valve



40 60030090300 % BACK-PRESSURE VALVE CPL. $31.19




I don't believe the SE has a check valve for the oil tank unless it's built into the suction hose going from the bottom of the oil tank. Quite possible that is the case looking at the tube. #11...



11 62538060000 SUCTION PIPE 05 $124.19
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #2247
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As johno said,,,, most likely the balance shaft seal.

#11



11 0760122050 SHAFT SEAL RING 12X20X5 B $7.29



You don't need to replace the gasket when changing the seal.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:02 PM   #2248
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I checked the breather valve and it is functioning. If there is not a siphon valve, then I am down to Balance shaft seal or rings. The bike runs strong and doesn´t smoke so I have problem believing it is rings but I am pushing a lot of oil up. I took the suction hose off and it passes air both directions but I have nothing to compare it to.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:24 AM   #2249
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The balancer shaft seal is an easy job. When my Adventure was literally puking oil into the front carb, the seal solved the issue.

I've had the suction pipe off before and don't recall seeing a check valve in the end that attaches to the oil tank but I wasn't looking either.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:14 PM   #2250
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Has anyone had problems with the head light adjustment screw loosening up? I'm speaking of the up and down adjustment...

I'm thinking about dabbing some RTV on the threads unless someone has a better idea
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