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Old 06-28-2012, 01:39 AM   #1186
DRjoe
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Any one know what after market rear shocks are available for the se, Some thing with adjustable pre load would be nice.

Any ideas on aftermarket units available or any info on getting an adventure shock fit?
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:51 AM   #1187
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Any one know what after market rear shocks are available for the se, Some thing with adjustable pre load would be nice.

Any ideas on aftermarket units available or any info on getting an adventure shock fit?
There was a rumor several months ago that there would be an ohlins TTX shock available. No news as we speak. Hyperpro and Wilbers are usually keen in producing custom stuff, but you would have to ship them your shock and wait.
Adv shock does not fit due to the placement of the nitrogen cannister. It could probably be made to fit, if you cut it off and connect it remotely. On the hydraulic preload adjuster, it could work if you order one from another maker, larger in diameter and hold it in place with the existing collar and possibly a sleeve between that and the shock body.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:04 AM   #1188
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Any one know what after market rear shocks are available for the se, Some thing with adjustable pre load would be nice.

Any ideas on aftermarket units available or any info on getting an adventure shock fit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
There was a rumor several months ago that there would be an ohlins TTX shock available. No news as we speak. Hyperpro and Wilbers are usually keen in producing custom stuff, but you would have to ship them your shock and wait.
Adv shock does not fit due to the placement of the nitrogen cannister. It could probably be made to fit, if you cut it off and connect it remotely. On the hydraulic preload adjuster, it could work if you order one from another maker, larger in diameter and hold it in place with the existing collar and possibly a sleeve between that and the shock body.


Yeah cutting off the canister should be easy but Joe didn't even have the balls to do it for his own bike (remember that ADV shock I offered you for the DR500 Joe?), let alone for a customer....

Regarding the preload adjuster I just looked it up and the SE uses very girly M52x1.5 threads, this is much smaller than all other KTM dirt bike shocks at M57 (or thereabouts). Only the 85 and 105 KTM minis share the M52 size and there is no preload adjuster available for them.

But WP, Öhlins, Wilbers and Hyperpro all make them, maybe they have one that will fit? I've got a Wilbers one at home that I can measure if it helps.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:27 AM   #1189
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Yeah cutting off the canister should be easy but Joe didn't even have the balls to do it for his own bike (remember that ADV shock I offered you for the DR500 Joe?), let alone for a customer....

Regarding the preload adjuster I just looked it up and the SE uses very girly M52x1.5 threads, this is much smaller than all other KTM dirt bike shocks at M57 (or thereabouts). Only the 85 and 105 KTM minis share the M52 size and there is no preload adjuster available for them.

But WP, Öhlins, Wilbers and Hyperpro all make them, maybe they have one that will fit? I've got a Wilbers one at home that I can measure if it helps.
The OC data bank!

Yes, it would be helpful if you measure the Wilbers, Lukas. It would have to have a wider ID than the SE shock body to slide over and be no more than 40mm (or thereabouts) in height. Then it could actually work.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:59 AM   #1190
DRjoe
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well I cut off and rewelded the shock canister on the shock i fitted to my dr650 but yea I think i'll try and avoid doing that with this bike.

You wouldnt happen to have a husaberg 650 pds shock sitting arround would you Lukas?
Would love to know the dimensions of one of them and if they are a true two piston pds shock or just a single piston.

what about putting the bottom shock mount off the se shock on to an exc shock?



Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Yeah cutting off the canister should be easy but Joe didn't even have the balls to do it for his own bike (remember that ADV shock I offered you for the DR500 Joe?), let alone for a customer....

Regarding the preload adjuster I just looked it up and the SE uses very girly M52x1.5 threads, this is much smaller than all other KTM dirt bike shocks at M57 (or thereabouts). Only the 85 and 105 KTM minis share the M52 size and there is no preload adjuster available for them.

But WP, Öhlins, Wilbers and Hyperpro all make them, maybe they have one that will fit? I've got a Wilbers one at home that I can measure if it helps.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:02 AM   #1191
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
The OC data bank!

Yes, it would be helpful if you measure the Wilbers, Lukas. It would have to have a wider ID than the SE shock body to slide over and be no more than 40mm (or thereabouts) in height. Then it could actually work.
No prob Aegis, I'll have a look. I realized that I have a Hyperpro shock for my F8 that has an hydr. P.A. so I'll measure that, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
well I cut off and rewelded the shock canister on the shock i fitted to my dr650 but yea I think i'll try and avoid doing that with this bike.

You wouldnt happen to have a husaberg 650 pds shock sitting arround would you Lukas?
Would love to know the dimensions of one of them and if they are a true two piston pds shock or just a single piston.

what about putting the bottom shock mount off the se shock on to an exc shock?
Unfortunately no Berg shocks in the garage except the one on my FE570 Joe... But I am pretty sure that they are full PDS shocks, in fact Pyndon fitted a combination of 950 Adv / Berg shock to his bike in order to get even more travel. Have a look at this thread here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147440
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:32 AM   #1192
logman
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Hey everyone,

Here is my problem..

Rear jug exhaust has the following symptoms-
-not as strong as front jug exhaust
-way hotter than front jug exhaust
-smokes on startup until engine is warmed up
-smokes a little when revved

**smoke is more white, not burning oil although it did burn some oil on my trip from Michigan to Boston. It was 97 degrees out the whole trip. I assume this is normal, maybe burned a quarter of a quart.

When choked or when starting cold, rear jug won't start firing right away, it takes about 5 or 6 seconds for it to start firing.

What I know-
-not spark plugs, both are new
-not coil packs, swapped front to rear

Any insight? I am thinking carbs? Worse?

I am hesitant to take it to a dealer as I have a feeling my local Ktm dealer is incompetent. I'd rather take it somewhere with a clue as to what it is- maybe a performance shop.

Thanks all
-joel
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #1193
charlie264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logman View Post
Hey everyone,

Here is my problem..

Rear jug exhaust has the following symptoms-
-not as strong as front jug exhaust
-way hotter than front jug exhaust
-smokes on startup until engine is warmed up
-smokes a little when revved

**smoke is more white, not burning oil although it did burn some oil on my trip from Michigan to Boston. It was 97 degrees out the whole trip. I assume this is normal, maybe burned a quarter of a quart.

When choked or when starting cold, rear jug won't start firing right away, it takes about 5 or 6 seconds for it to start firing.

What I know-
-not spark plugs, both are new
-not coil packs, swapped front to rear

Any insight? I am thinking carbs? Worse?

I am hesitant to take it to a dealer as I have a feeling my local Ktm dealer is incompetent. I'd rather take it somewhere with a clue as to what it is- maybe a performance shop.

Thanks all
-joel
Check with compression tester. Check valve clearances.
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:40 PM   #1194
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White smoke means coolant is being burnt. Check the water pump
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:08 AM   #1195
logman
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OK - checked coolant, waterpump was just re-built and the level is not changing. Oil is clean. Bike has 26k on it and I am starting to think the smoke isn't white, but blueish. Maybe oil or unburnt/partially burnt fuel?

I know when I bought it the previous owner said that one of the valves was not out of spec but was going to need to be adjusted soon. Would an intake valve closing too soon cause lower compression and smoke from incomplete combustion? I am a newb when it comes to valves... I scheduled an an appointment to have it looked at.. just hope they don't ream me.

Anyone know how much a valve adjustment job typically costs?

Thanks all.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:40 AM   #1196
charlie264
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It depends on the engine design. But on the LC8 the tolerance a quite small, if there is not enough clearance on the valves, they will open prematurely and close late. If there is no gap the valves will not seat correctly and allow blow past, normally when this happens or a valve is burnt or chipped you get a whistling noise from the exhaust. It’s important that the valves are at correct tolerance so not to cause incorrect seating and premature wear.

Blue smoke on start up could be a sign the valve seals or collars are worn, the seals sit around the valve stem preventing excess oil from running down the valves into the combustion chamber, years ago due to poor rubbers they would fail regularly but materials have improved. But the common sign was when an engine has been sat, oil would creep past the seals, on start up the excess oil would quickly burn, giving off whitish blue smoke.
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charlie264 screwed with this post 07-02-2012 at 09:53 AM
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:30 PM   #1197
Barman
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I want to replace the gas cap on my 2007 SE stock tank with a non-locking cap. My existing cap has a small issue so I don't want to reuse it with a lock elim kit, just want an entire non-locking cap. Didn't find much in a search. Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:24 PM   #1198
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Not really a question, But I hardly didn't think this was worthy of a new thread. Taught my SE a new trick tonight.

Drilled some holes:




Extended the Horn, fuel sensor, and fuel pump wiring so it'd reach up to the area between the tank and airbox:


And now I can get the tank off with only removing three bolts, Rather than 11.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:14 AM   #1199
charlie264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BENRON View Post
Not really a question, But I hardly didn't think this was worthy of a new thread. Taught my SE a new trick tonight.

Drilled some holes:




Extended the Horn, fuel sensor, and fuel pump wiring so it'd reach up to the area between the tank and airbox:


And now I can get the tank off with only removing three bolts, Rather than 11.
I just unplug the horn and fuel sensor behind the little horn cover.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:21 AM   #1200
Schannulleke
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The hard part about unmounting or mounting the tank are not the bolts but the fuel connections.

Left petcock, right petcock, input from the fuel pump, output from the fuel pump (quick connector). Have you got a trick for that too?
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