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Old 05-31-2012, 01:56 PM   #1186
MP5
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Rear aux tank question.

I have the Neduro rear, and stock front tank on my 08 SE right now. My question is this...for those of you who have this set up, do you ride with the rear tank petcocks open when both tanks are full....or only open rear tank when front tank runs out, or is close to running outta fuel?

I ran out of fuel in the front tank the other day. Stopped, opened rear petcock, and cycled fuel through after a few cranks. My fuel light did not come on, however, when i was running dry in the front....or maybe it did, and I didn't notice it .

When the fuel in the front tank runs low, isn't there a light that comes on the dash to let you know? Had one on my 990, but wasn't certain on the SE
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:14 PM   #1187
buildit
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my 950se has a low fuel light but I'm 100% stock in that area.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:32 PM   #1188
BENRON
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Yup, it's got a low fuel light. BUT, If one of the fuel petcocks on the bottom front wings of the tank are closed, It may not come on before it sputters to a stop.

Ask me how I know.
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:56 PM   #1189
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Depending how it's plumbed...

If you have a one way check valve connection in the line between the rear tank and front tank... and it's connected in the proper direction, then there's no reason not to leave the aux. petcock open at all times. In fact, you wouldn't want to run it closed when there's fuel just sitting in the aux. tank collecting moisture and allowing the ethanol to break down.

Keep all petcocks open. Always fill all tanks with fuel, and let the bike draw out all the fuel naturally.

The aux tank generally will disperse as a primary if it's tee'd properly. Some fuel in the aux. tank may stay behind as the other tanks start to take over, prior to the residual aux. fuel emptying out at it's bottom... which may cause the fuel light to come on prematurely. You should already have a good estimate of what your fuel range was before you added the aux. tank. Figure roughly 2 gallons into your current mpg and compare your additional range, always allowing yourself and extra 1/2 gallon's worth to get you to a fuel stop when you're in town.

Once you have your new range dialed in, you'll be less dependent on your fuel light, which is helpful. Just know that sometimes the last bit of fuel in your aux. tank may inaccurately trigger the fuel light to come on early.

All of this is based solely on my experience, with the plumbing matching the instructions.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:08 PM   #1190
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If you are doing some serious offroad it's a good idea to drain the rear tank first, then switch to the fronty. You do not want the extra weight in the rear.

Most Dakar racers drain the rear first then switch to the front.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:19 PM   #1191
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My experience is similar to Desert Surfer. Low fuel comes on early, but well after I would have already ran dry.

Adv tank is ugly but a great upgrade for me, as the range with 5.5 gallons or so is about perfect for my rides.
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:50 AM   #1192
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Thanks for that info. Will be filling both tanks, and experimenting w tanks this weekend. 400 kms ride on stock and rear tank.

Have a Safari too, but won't need that. May never need it actually.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:29 AM   #1193
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I noticed an engine vibration yesterday that hasn't been there before. It comes in just over 100 kph... but I'm undergeared at present (16/47)... so probably equivalent to 115 - 120 kph on standard gearing - about 70-75mph. I can feel it in the pegs and bars. Its rev-related and isn't there with the clutch in. I can't hear anything different.

I'm thinking it might be the countershaft sprocket. I'm 500km+ northeast of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia at present... and headed for there.

Anyone had this before? Known issues? The bike has just clicked over 30,000km (18,000 miles).
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:21 AM   #1194
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Tach?

Hey is there a way to put a factory tach on the SE? Also do these bikes have a revlimitter?
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #1195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencergt66 View Post
Hey is there a way to put a factory tach on the SE? Also do these bikes have a revlimitter?

Not sure if you can put a factory tach on. But I do know that there is a revlimitter on the SE that I own.
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:38 PM   #1196
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Been searching for 1/2 hr and haven't found any consistent info.

What clicker settings to most people use with the stock suspension? Approx. 200 lbs. with gear. Southwest forest service road type of stuff.

I realize that a re-valve is probably the best answer, but the 'old money tree is looking a bit wilted.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:22 PM   #1197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skopiec View Post
Been searching for 1/2 hr and haven't found any consistent info.

What clicker settings to most people use with the stock suspension? Approx. 200 lbs. with gear. Southwest forest service road type of stuff.

I realize that a re-valve is probably the best answer, but the 'old money tree is looking a bit wilted.
Have you tried 'normal' settings and if yes, what is that you don't like?
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:27 PM   #1198
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Did try normal and it seemed to have too much compression damping especially in the front. Also, on washboard, it seemed to be packing up - the bike had a slowing down sensation.

I've backed off on the compression on both ends, and it seems a bit better. I just thought I'd see what everyone else is using as a starting point - I have a habit of twisting dials until it's really screwed up! :)



Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Have you tried 'normal' settings and if yes, what is that you don't like?
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:54 PM   #1199
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Need to upgrade the seals and bushings, the stiction issues with these forks are the worst out there. The clickers can only do so much, the midtstroke damping needs to be addressed to eliminate the harshness as well. If your looking for just clicker settings, compression @ 23, rebound @ 18.
KTM offers the seals, wipers, and bushings for under $100.00, part number R14020.
I also offer bushings I had made for these 48mm forks as well.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:58 PM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skopiec View Post
Did try normal and it seemed to have too much compression damping especially in the front. Also, on washboard, it seemed to be packing up - the bike had a slowing down sensation.

I've backed off on the compression on both ends, and it seems a bit better. I just thought I'd see what everyone else is using as a starting point - I have a habit of twisting dials until it's really screwed up! :)
Stiff compression on the front is a problem on this bike. You have nothing to loose to try lighter oil in the forks, something like 2W
I would suggest to use normal (or sport) settings on the back, but reduce preload 2 turns or so and use sport settings on the front with the lighter oil.
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