950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

[Questor]

Originally Posted by spencergt66

Hey is there a way to put a factory tach on the SE? Also do these bikes have a revlimitter?

You can put a 950 Adventure Tach on the SE.
I was going to do it to mine but never got around to it.

If I remember correctly the Tach gets is signal from the #12 pin of the ECU.

Q~

[Schannulleke]

Yes, 3 things:

- add a metal contact pin tot the correct slot in the connector going to the ECU. Don't know which number, just by memory. This provides the tacho signal.

- Look for a way to mount the tacho.

- Power the tacho via ACC2 (power when key on)

[Konflict Motorsports]

Originally Posted by mousitsas

Stiff compression on the front is a problem on this bike. You have nothing to loose to try lighter oil in the forks, something like 2W
I would suggest to use normal (or sport) settings on the back, but reduce preload 2 turns or so and use sport settings on the front with the lighter oil.

Its actually the mid-stroke damping on this bike that creates the harshness you are feeling, along with the stiction issues. I have mounted a go pro on a 950 with crash bars just to see how little the lowers were moving over 2 to 4 inch braking bumps on a forest service road, and the forks were moving maybe 1/2 inch at most going 50 to 80 mph. These forks have the same issue's as the smaller KTM's of this year.
I have replaced the bushings, and seals along with polishing the lowers on numerous bikes varying in displacment and with the feedback I have gotten back I am positive with my outcome.
The harshness can be eliminated and I can provide stacks for people who can complete there revalves if theres an interest.

[spencergt66]

Originally Posted by Questor

You can put a 950 Adventure Tach on the SE.
I was going to do it to mine but never got around to it.

If I remember correctly the Tach gets is signal from the #12 pin of the ECU.

Q~

SWEET thanks


now to find a tach

[wpbarlow]

Has anyone run an Adventure sized rear knobbie ( 150/70-R18 ) in place of the standard SE sized knobbie (140/80-18 )?

Any issues/comments?


I don't have any issues with the stock size- I just happen to have a brand new 150/70-R18 TKC which I don't think I'll be using on the 990.

tia

[skopiec]

Thanks for the suggestions - heading out Friday for a Northern AZ run, so I'll get a chance to try out the new settings.

Originally Posted by Konflict Motorsports

Need to upgrade the seals and bushings, the stiction issues with these forks are the worst out there. The clickers can only do so much, the midtstroke damping needs to be addressed to eliminate the harshness as well. If your looking for just clicker settings, compression @ 23, rebound @ 18.
KTM offers the seals, wipers, and bushings for under $100.00, part number R14020.
I also offer bushings I had made for these 48mm forks as well.

[wpbarlow]

Originally Posted by wpbarlow

Has anyone run an Adventure sized rear knobbie ( 150/70-R18 ) in place of the standard SE sized knobbie (140/80-18 )?
Any issues/comments?
I don't have any issues with the stock size- I just happen to have a brand new 150/70-R18 TKC which I don't think I'll be using on the 990. tia

Thought I'd bump this-- anyone?????

[skopiec]

I just finished burning off a 150 TKC on my SE (Only 900 miles!).

Seemed to work fine, but it does look a bit wide for the rim. Didn't really notice any handling or other issues.

Gonna look at the K60 next time for hopefully some better wear/mileage.

Originally Posted by wpbarlow

Thought I'd bump this-- anyone?????

[jimmex]

I have an '07 SE with Neduro ADV tank and of course 2-1 exhaust. The heat generated at the exhaust pipe union is intense and I think is detrimental to the rectifier regulator which is just above this union. Is there a way to relocate the rectifier regulator? Is this necessary? Is there a way to insulate the rectifier/reg ? Thanks for any suggestions.

[v8toilet]

Originally Posted by jimmex

I have an '07 SE with Neduro ADV tank and of course 2-1 exhaust. The heat generated at the exhaust pipe union is intense and I think is detrimental to the rectifier regulator which is just above this union. Is there a way to relocate the rectifier regulator? Is this necessary? Is there a way to insulate the rectifier/reg ? Thanks for any suggestions.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668132

[mountain eagle]

Can the SE front sprocket be changed without breaking the chain? Going back to a 17t for some long commuting......

[buildit]

Originally Posted by mountain eagle

Can the SE front sprocket be changed without breaking the chain? Going back to a 17t for some long commuting......

Yes, just undo it from the rear to give you slack.

[slackmeyer]

Originally Posted by mountain eagle

Can the SE front sprocket be changed without breaking the chain? Going back to a 17t for some long commuting......

If it's like the ADV, and the chain won't quite fit in the space between the sprocket and the clutch slave, remove the clutch slave (it won't leak, and it's only 3 bolts). Just don't pump the clutch lever while the slave is unbolted.

[CA Stu]

Quick question:

Rear shock preload on my SE measures 40mm from the top of the adjuster ring to the end of the threads on top of the shock. Does that seem right?
I read the manual and it recommends 8mm preload, I understand the concept of preload, but before I start adjusting stuff I would like to know if that seems about correct. Seems like the rear end is really stiff?

The bike is bone stock.

Thanks!

[mountain eagle]

Originally Posted by slackmeyer

If it's like the ADV, and the chain won't quite fit in the space between the sprocket and the clutch slave, remove the clutch slave (it won't leak, and it's only 3 bolts). Just don't pump the clutch lever while the slave is unbolted.

Thanks Slackmeyer! That's was the hangup. I've not needed to do anything with the clutch slave yet and didn't know that the clutch function would be unaffected by removing it.