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Old 08-31-2012, 10:53 PM   #1336
mountain eagle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfdskipper View Post
Just turn off the bike with the on off switch thats located on the right side of your handlebar. Leave the key on. Your fan will continue to run even after the engine stops. The fan will cycle itself off when the temp drops.
Yeah.... no. Leaving the headlight on that much will kill the battery. And then the issue of just standing around while you wait for the fan to kick off........... well, I'd rather not.

I'll poke around and see about rewiring the fan power to something constant so you can just kill the key and be on your way leaving the head light off and the fan running till it gets cool.....
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:35 AM   #1337
DRjoe
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Also the fan has little effect on engine temp when the engines not running.
the fan will cool the rad but with no water pump going it will take a long time for the water in the engine to make it to the rad.

In theory it might be a bad thing to do.
If your rad is filled with cold water and engine with hot then when the engine is started the motor would be rapidly cooled.
Things might go ping.
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:00 AM   #1338
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Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Also the fan has little effect on engine temp when the engines not running.
the fan will cool the rad but with no water pump going it will take a long time for the water in the engine to make it to the rad.

In theory it might be a bad thing to do.
If your rad is filled with cold water and engine with hot then when the engine is started the motor would be rapidly cooled.
Things might go ping.
+1 principally
Wonder however why do automobiles then let the fan run?
Think the rapid cooling is not an issue, perhaps winter and sub-sub-sub freezing though.
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Old 09-01-2012, 05:32 AM   #1339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle View Post
Yeah.... no. Leaving the headlight on that much will kill the battery. And then the issue of just standing around while you wait for the fan to kick off........... well, I'd rather not.

I'll poke around and see about rewiring the fan power to something constant so you can just kill the key and be on your way leaving the head light off and the fan running till it gets cool.....
If your worried about the battery drain with the bike off and the fan running, another option would be to wire in the european on and off switch for your lights. You could also get the KTM heat sensor that triggers the fan to start spinning about 20 degrees sooner that the stock unit.

I am located in one of the hottest parts of the US and generally I'm riding the beast pretty hard, six bars is commonplace. I think these bikes cool down pretty quick after killing the motor.
I am running dual 8" HID's that I switch manually so no real issue for me. Also, I'm not generally waiting around for the fan to kick off. Typical drill for me when arriving at my destination involves shutting the lights and the engine down, then dismount and shed the gear, then put the bike on the stand and maybe a quick walk around the bike. I would guess two , maybe three minutes at most to accomplish that. In most instances, the fan has already kicked itself off by the time my dismount/disrobe routine is complete.

I have only had the switched lights for about 8 months, prior to that the stock light was always on with the fan after engine kill. I have the same original battery that came new with the bike in Aug. of 09
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:23 AM   #1340
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On a similar note to the above, also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off.

Also trying to figure out a manual overide switch so i can turn the fans on when wanted. Watching with interest.
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:22 AM   #1341
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Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
... also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off...
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post

The fan will only cool the the radiator & the liquid inside of it.

The coolant will NOT circulate with engine not running.

Wiring the fan this way is NOT necessary, but I like it

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Old 09-01-2012, 10:31 AM   #1342
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Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post

The fan will only cool the liquid in the radiator.

This is NOT necessary, but I like it.
I would think that there would still be some passive flow however small from the cooler to warmer in the system. I really don't think the temp difference would ever come into play with the water and engine wear. The wrong weight oil would have more play there.

I'll poke around in a bit and try to take pictures if I decide to do anything about it.

edit* - A quick look at the wiring diagram says that the fans are switched common and that the only change needed are to take the switched hot that provides constant voltage to the fan with the key on, and make it an unswitched hot. The temp switch closes ground/common to complete the circuit.

*edit2 - done. It's easy, done and tested in well under an hour.
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:57 PM   #1343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
On a similar note to the above, also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off.

Also trying to figure out a manual overide switch so i can turn the fans on when wanted. Watching with interest.
Quick write up for the fans to come on when the temp switch calls for it and the key is off. I wouldn't want a manual over ride as I'd flat the battery for sure.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822618
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:31 AM   #1344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post
Thanks,

Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle
Quick write up for the fans to come on when the temp switch calls for it and the key is off. I wouldn't want a manual over ride as I'd flat the battery for sure.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822618
Excellent! will sort that next weekend, just find when I ride the bike around london it gets really hot, fans may only cool rads but hoping convection with a little conduction will help with the overall dissipation.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:52 AM   #1345
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Workshop / Repair manual??

Hi, am after a workshop / repair manual for the 950SE, every link I try seems to be dead.. I have the owners manual but after something more substantial.

Any ideas?

Cheers Wilso!
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:47 AM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
Hi, am after a workshop / repair manual for the 950SE, every link I try seems to be dead.. I have the owners manual but after something more substantial.

Any ideas?

Cheers Wilso!
There is a repair manual on CD. Ktm part # 3.206.056

Edit: yeah, it appears that part number is no longer, superceded by 3206107. I found it on Munn Racings site for $25

http://www.munnracing.com/
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:25 PM   #1347
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or here:

http://www.ktm-parts.com/3206107.html
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:40 PM   #1348
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Quick question, who has $6,900 burning a hole in their pocket? There's a 2007 950 SE R in Baltimore (on a lot?)

I'm in no way affiliatted, I just happened upon it on craigslist and thought I'd share it's existence. Maybe all that's wrong with it is that it's up for sale for KBB and not actual value?
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:01 PM   #1349
pfdskipper
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Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Quick question, who has $6,900 burning a hole in their pocket? There's a 2007 950 SE R in Baltimore (on a lot?)

I'm in no way affiliatted, I just happened upon it on craigslist and thought I'd share it's existence. Maybe all that's wrong with it is that it's up for sale for KBB and not actual value?
cant find it??
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:21 PM   #1350
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5am was on the way to work 3klm out of 25klm this morning & all of a sudden big drop in power & felt like it was missing on 1 cyl - so i instantly shut it down & rolled to a stop. hit the starter it turned over freely. ok so fired it up. hmmmm erratic idle & fluffy missing sound - hole in exhaust ? so limped back home slowly.

looked all over the bike exhaust bends etc - wtf is it - curiosity looked down the telco silencers haha found it. pulled the silencer off.

what i found
the Right side core insert (exhaust end) has dropped in/slid in away from were it seals.






have not pulled it apart yet but looks to me that the weld maybe ? down the other end / TIP end of the core has separated to the rest of the core. like the core is a two piece length ?

can anyone confirm if the core is a two piece length or would it had been spot welded on the end & has let go ? & is the core stainless or mild ? if stainless ill need to take it to the b/shop or exhaust place.


need get this done only means of transport now.





just rang the local b/shop there flat out 3 days minimum wait - 2 mechanics walked out on them.

so trying contact local exhaust place not answering phone
1 out of 2



this has cost me $300 in loss wages today




well the other exhaust place here in my town drilled out the pop rivets got the bottom end off looked at it said he did not know how to fix it & gave it to me in pieces $10Aud charge.

so took it home & seen straight away the problem. on the exit end of the baffle core it has a 70mm length of pipe/sleeve that slides in the perforated core. which gives its length & keeps it all snug & tight inside.
the sleeve & core were never spot welded from new & has allowed the sleeve to slide down inside the perforated core.
so with a bit of mucking around to get the right length so its all tight when the end cap is on then welded it (mild) steel.

next was slip it back in squeeze the outer with my thighs while slipping the end cap on with rivet holes aligned & pop rivet back up.

jobs done :) & ripped off $10Aud














.
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