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Old 08-31-2012, 07:48 PM   #1381
Brown Dog
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What KTMSER is saying is :

The Red Kill switch at throttle grip will NOT turn your Headlamp Off

So, you better have a Strong Battery to run the lamp & fan (only when switch temp is reached) together.

Hope this makes sense as I'm not much on the computer

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Old 08-31-2012, 11:53 PM   #1382
mountain eagle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfdskipper View Post
Just turn off the bike with the on off switch thats located on the right side of your handlebar. Leave the key on. Your fan will continue to run even after the engine stops. The fan will cycle itself off when the temp drops.
Yeah.... no. Leaving the headlight on that much will kill the battery. And then the issue of just standing around while you wait for the fan to kick off........... well, I'd rather not.

I'll poke around and see about rewiring the fan power to something constant so you can just kill the key and be on your way leaving the head light off and the fan running till it gets cool.....
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:35 AM   #1383
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Also the fan has little effect on engine temp when the engines not running.
the fan will cool the rad but with no water pump going it will take a long time for the water in the engine to make it to the rad.

In theory it might be a bad thing to do.
If your rad is filled with cold water and engine with hot then when the engine is started the motor would be rapidly cooled.
Things might go ping.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:00 AM   #1384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Also the fan has little effect on engine temp when the engines not running.
the fan will cool the rad but with no water pump going it will take a long time for the water in the engine to make it to the rad.

In theory it might be a bad thing to do.
If your rad is filled with cold water and engine with hot then when the engine is started the motor would be rapidly cooled.
Things might go ping.
+1 principally
Wonder however why do automobiles then let the fan run?
Think the rapid cooling is not an issue, perhaps winter and sub-sub-sub freezing though.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:32 AM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle View Post
Yeah.... no. Leaving the headlight on that much will kill the battery. And then the issue of just standing around while you wait for the fan to kick off........... well, I'd rather not.

I'll poke around and see about rewiring the fan power to something constant so you can just kill the key and be on your way leaving the head light off and the fan running till it gets cool.....
If your worried about the battery drain with the bike off and the fan running, another option would be to wire in the european on and off switch for your lights. You could also get the KTM heat sensor that triggers the fan to start spinning about 20 degrees sooner that the stock unit.

I am located in one of the hottest parts of the US and generally I'm riding the beast pretty hard, six bars is commonplace. I think these bikes cool down pretty quick after killing the motor.
I am running dual 8" HID's that I switch manually so no real issue for me. Also, I'm not generally waiting around for the fan to kick off. Typical drill for me when arriving at my destination involves shutting the lights and the engine down, then dismount and shed the gear, then put the bike on the stand and maybe a quick walk around the bike. I would guess two , maybe three minutes at most to accomplish that. In most instances, the fan has already kicked itself off by the time my dismount/disrobe routine is complete.

I have only had the switched lights for about 8 months, prior to that the stock light was always on with the fan after engine kill. I have the same original battery that came new with the bike in Aug. of 09
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:23 AM   #1386
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On a similar note to the above, also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off.

Also trying to figure out a manual overide switch so i can turn the fans on when wanted. Watching with interest.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:22 AM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
... also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off...
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post

The fan will only cool the the radiator & the liquid inside of it.

The coolant will NOT circulate with engine not running.

Wiring the fan this way is NOT necessary, but I like it

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Old 09-01-2012, 11:31 AM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post

The fan will only cool the liquid in the radiator.

This is NOT necessary, but I like it.
I would think that there would still be some passive flow however small from the cooler to warmer in the system. I really don't think the temp difference would ever come into play with the water and engine wear. The wrong weight oil would have more play there.

I'll poke around in a bit and try to take pictures if I decide to do anything about it.

edit* - A quick look at the wiring diagram says that the fans are switched common and that the only change needed are to take the switched hot that provides constant voltage to the fan with the key on, and make it an unswitched hot. The temp switch closes ground/common to complete the circuit.

*edit2 - done. It's easy, done and tested in well under an hour.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:57 PM   #1389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
On a similar note to the above, also interested in how to keep the fan live with ignition and ligths off.

Also trying to figure out a manual overide switch so i can turn the fans on when wanted. Watching with interest.
Quick write up for the fans to come on when the temp switch calls for it and the key is off. I wouldn't want a manual over ride as I'd flat the battery for sure.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822618
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:31 AM   #1390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Wire the Fan + Positive wire strait to the + batt post
Thanks,

Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain eagle
Quick write up for the fans to come on when the temp switch calls for it and the key is off. I wouldn't want a manual over ride as I'd flat the battery for sure.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822618
Excellent! will sort that next weekend, just find when I ride the bike around london it gets really hot, fans may only cool rads but hoping convection with a little conduction will help with the overall dissipation.
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:52 AM   #1391
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Workshop / Repair manual??

Hi, am after a workshop / repair manual for the 950SE, every link I try seems to be dead.. I have the owners manual but after something more substantial.

Any ideas?

Cheers Wilso!
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:47 AM   #1392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
Hi, am after a workshop / repair manual for the 950SE, every link I try seems to be dead.. I have the owners manual but after something more substantial.

Any ideas?

Cheers Wilso!
There is a repair manual on CD. Ktm part # 3.206.056

Edit: yeah, it appears that part number is no longer, superceded by 3206107. I found it on Munn Racings site for $25

http://www.munnracing.com/
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:25 PM   #1393
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or here:

http://www.ktm-parts.com/3206107.html
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:40 PM   #1394
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Quick question, who has $6,900 burning a hole in their pocket? There's a 2007 950 SE R in Baltimore (on a lot?)

I'm in no way affiliatted, I just happened upon it on craigslist and thought I'd share it's existence. Maybe all that's wrong with it is that it's up for sale for KBB and not actual value?
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:01 PM   #1395
pfdskipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Quick question, who has $6,900 burning a hole in their pocket? There's a 2007 950 SE R in Baltimore (on a lot?)

I'm in no way affiliatted, I just happened upon it on craigslist and thought I'd share it's existence. Maybe all that's wrong with it is that it's up for sale for KBB and not actual value?
cant find it??
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