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Old 09-24-2012, 05:04 AM   #1381
Navin
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I find that now I deleted my speedo/temp guage I obsess about temp alot less.

I used to pay too much attention to it, now I don't even think about it. It doesn't boil over, the fan cycles, all is well. You'd be better off to tape over the damn thing IMO.
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:42 AM   #1382
pepetrueba
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kiwi boot polish

Thanks for the tip. I will purchase some after work
Nice remedy for carbon fibre
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:24 AM   #1383
markie_wales
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After a little drop-sie-poos on Saturday the rear brake stop bolt sheared and the eccentric "washer/spacer" came off. The bolt broke flush to the frame, so I'll need to drill it out & re-tap, or maybe a left handed drill bit will do the business. I sort of treat this as a sacrificial bolt and not too worried it went.

Anyway, this got me to thinking, if I was on a long week(s) trip and this happened I would not be able to fix it on the trail. So is there any reason why I shouldn't drill it through with a 6mm drill and just stick a nut on the inside of the frame (although it might be a bit fiddly)? This way I could carry a spare nut, bolt and spacer in my tool bag and fix on the trial?

I know I've probably missed something obvious, but for the life of me I can't think what would be wrong about this.

cheers

Markie

EDIT bolt stub now out, so just wondering whether to replace as-is or drill through and stick a nut on a longer bolt?
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:43 PM   #1384
triplenickel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markie_wales View Post
After a little drop-sie-poos on Saturday the rear brake stop bolt sheared and the eccentric "washer/spacer" came off. The bolt broke flush to the frame, so I'll need to drill it out & re-tap, or maybe a left handed drill bit will do the business. I sort of treat this as a sacrificial bolt and not too worried it went.

Anyway, this got me to thinking, if I was on a long week(s) trip and this happened I would not be able to fix it on the trail. So is there any reason why I shouldn't drill it through with a 6mm drill and just stick a nut on the inside of the frame (although it might be a bit fiddly)? This way I could carry a spare nut, bolt and spacer in my tool bag and fix on the trial?

I know I've probably missed something obvious, but for the life of me I can't think what would be wrong about this.

cheers

Markie

EDIT bolt stub now out, so just wondering whether to replace as-is or drill through and stick a nut on a longer bolt?
Seems like a good idea to me.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:11 AM   #1385
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I have a Wings Pipe, which has that black carbon type wrap around it. It had started to peel off before I bought it, and is now getting worse. (I assume because of heat).

Anyone else suffered this ?
Can I just buy new wrap....or will Wings replace it?
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:32 PM   #1386
sanjoh
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Finally got out for a few days riding in the Smokey mountains.

"Quick" question - do you use any throttle input when starting the bike cold? any difference when hot?

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Old 10-02-2012, 02:40 PM   #1387
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Finally got out for a few days riding in the Smokey mountains.

"Quick" question - do you use any throttle input when starting the bike cold? any difference when hot?


Full choke cold with no throttle, a little blip when hot, WOT after a tip over and flood.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:19 AM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP5 View Post
I have a Wings Pipe, which has that black carbon type wrap around it. It had started to peel off before I bought it, and is now getting worse. (I assume because of heat).

Anyone else suffered this ?
Can I just buy new wrap....or will Wings replace it?
Just my opinion but have a personal hatred for carbon end cans as they simply cant take the heat and degrade over time, seems twins eat them, same on the 900ss, tl100 and seen it on ADV's as well. They are great if you are racing and get them free but for most mortals with a budget go for titanium every time.

As for the rest I would ask Wings directly, but, cant see you getting much luck.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:50 AM   #1389
sanjoh
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Originally Posted by triplenickel View Post
Full choke cold with no throttle, a little blip when hot, WOT after a tip over and flood.
Thanks
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:11 PM   #1390
triplenickel
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Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
Just my opinion but have a personal hatred for carbon end cans as they simply cant take the heat and degrade over time, seems twins eat them, same on the 900ss, tl100 and seen it on ADV's as well. They are great if you are racing and get them free but for most mortals with a budget go for titanium every time.

As for the rest I would ask Wings directly, but, cant see you getting much luck.
+1 My carbon Remus lasted all of about 6000kms before the rivets rattled loose for the end caps. They offered a replacement but said if I went with another carbon warranty was over, they offered a Ti as a replacement with normal warranty terms so that's what I ended up with.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #1391
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Question

need some help please

i have a slight miss at low revs (at idle it's ok) / it's just off idle @ about 50kph then it disappears as i get past 60kph & up.


bike sits in a shed at home
originally i thought it was plugs so replaced them no fix & moisture as the bike sat in a good days down pore at work - a month ago.
i've sprayed all areas with wd40 that i could think maybe were moisture would cause it.
last couple weeks its been good weather 25+ degrees celcius so no moisture should be left.


bike sat for 3 weeks untill my throttle cables arrived for my FCR's (snapped cable)
yesterday i sync my carbs & the miss is still there & i swapped plugs again cr8eix & cr8ek ? ? ?


any ideas guys



i'll be in & out of the house trying to sort this so i'll reply when i can. cheers
.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:23 PM   #1392
DRjoe
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Might be time to give your carbs a clean.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:21 PM   #1393
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Might be time to give your carbs a clean.
sorry i did not mention that in my post
yes i pulled the jets & blew them out , float bowls were clean also.
K&N filters cleaned & resprayed with oil.


one thing i did notice when doing my sync.
on the carbtune - as i SLOWLY open the throttle the front FCR carb opens/rod rises way faster than the rear FCR carb ?

BUT at the cables i have them adjusted so the slightest pull movement both FCR carbs are opening at the same time.

hope you guys understand what im saying.


at idle there fluctuating on the carbtune @ + or - 1cmhg of each other
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #1394
ct_rider
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fuel light not working

For some reason my fuel light stopped working. I checked the connection at the front of the tank by the horn and it is solidly connected and isn't damaged. No fuses are blown.

Anything I should check for?

Leaving for a week long trip in a couple days and want to get this sorted as the fuel range is pretty terrible and I don't want to run out.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:00 PM   #1395
randel
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Does anybody have a clue what can cause this?
I participated in two day-long motorcycle orienteering events during last month and both time had similar problems.
Bike runs just fine until suddenly it will not start anymore like battery has run out, relay only clicking or very slowly turning engine. After I got it started with the help from another bike, it runs fine again and I can start it like 15min after this has happened and no signs from weak battery.
Both times have been quite cold, +10...+15C and rainy, a lot of mud and water. Any hints, what can cause this problem? Weak electrical connection somewhere?
I use my bike for daily commuting and it runs fine again, no problems I am aware off, power is ok and fuel consumption also reasonable.
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