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Old 05-04-2014, 09:29 PM   #1
Nailhead OP
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Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Glendo, WY- Pop. 230
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Whats Wrong With My Brakes??

I just bought an R100RS, and the brakes are, well, terrifying: the fronts take all my left hand can muster to come to a stop. Any stop, and God forbid it was a panic stop. The lever feel is firm, but thats about all thats right.

Is this endemic, or is it atypical?

Any thoughts would be welcome, because this braking condition is a damper on my enthusiasm for riding this bike.

Would a simple deglaze of the pads & rotors help? The rotors are shiny as a new dime. Have Scothbrites, will buff.
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'7? Benelli 650S, '80 BMW R100 RS, '07 KTM 990 Adventure

Nailhead screwed with this post 05-04-2014 at 09:31 PM Reason: Because I'm not detail oriented.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:35 PM   #2
TK-421
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Try the right hand ;)



On a serious note, I'd start with de-glazing the rotors and a set of high quality new pads.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:35 PM   #3
supershaft
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It all depends on what year model you have.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:41 PM   #4
rockydrxrvr
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I have a DR and a 1150GS, but read on

Similar problem, and 75 percent solved, below;

When new pads, and a rotor clean and sand won't work

My 2006 DR developed almost non-stopping ability on the Rear Brake,

So I bought new EBC FA152-R pads, chemically clean rotors, sanded with 800 grit, finished with a cross/X path on the sanding, and still... no amount of foot force would give me 'some' wheel lockup, and stopping power. Old pads had lots of surface left, but glazed, and some pollution.

Ok...so a pint of new DOT 4, pull all the old fluid thru with a simple elevated hose and jar trick, and moderate pressure = moderate lock.

So old fluid, with a possibility of air in the line, ( which watching the clear tube, saw one bubble only).

Bleed and Dot 4 your DR system before you buy new pads, not like dummy here, but OK...those pads did have 11 k on them.

Next step is a 'Braided' line, as I want a bit less foot pressure for the same results.

Also of note, I dropped my pegs with a 1.5'' lowering kit, and may have something to do with the angle of leverage/foot pressure, but my finish work on the lowering, gave me an 'even plain' of petal vs. brake arm.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:21 AM   #5
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
I just bought an R100RS, and the brakes are, well, terrifying: the fronts take all my left hand can muster to come to a stop. Any stop, and God forbid it was a panic stop. The lever feel is firm, but thats about all thats right.

Is this endemic, or is it atypical?

Any thoughts would be welcome, because this braking condition is a damper on my enthusiasm for riding this bike.

Would a simple deglaze of the pads & rotors help? The rotors are shiny as a new dime. Have Scothbrites, will buff.
All the answers are in this thread. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=973871
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:02 AM   #6
Nailhead OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
It all depends on what year model you have.
1980, with the non-Brembo (Lockheed?) calipers.

Sorry-- should have included that.
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'7? Benelli 650S, '80 BMW R100 RS, '07 KTM 990 Adventure
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:04 AM   #7
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
1980, with the non-Brembo (Lockheed?) calipers.

Sorry-- should have included that.
Make sure calliper is adjusted properly and fit a 13mm handlebar MC.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:07 AM   #8
Nailhead OP
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Where is one of those obtained?

Thanks fir the info.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:12 AM   #9
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
Where is one of those obtained?

Thanks fir the info.
In the UK, a twin pull throttle cable handlebar 13mm MC can be got from Motobins, they provide a good service to the US and Aussie
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:52 AM   #10
Stan_R80/7
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Whenever I adjust my ATE calipers, the eccentric pin is set so the caliper is near the edge of the rotor (closest to rim), then a zip tie or helper applies slight braking; the eccentric pin is then fine tuned to minimize drag while the brake is slightly applied and the front wheel rotated. Just this adjustment, new pads, and cable length adjustment has taken my single caliper ATE brakes from marginal to OK.

No, the front brake will not lock. But, there is plenty of fork dive and a stop from 30 mph takes about 7 ft using only the front brake. Good luck!
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:26 AM   #11
mykill
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Ate trick

I mark the rotors with a sharpie, lines across the rotor. Rotate the wheel with some pressure on the lever. removal of the lines will show you have maximum contact across the rotor to confirm your adjustment.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:46 PM   #12
Stan_R80/7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykill View Post
I mark the rotors with a sharpie, lines across the rotor. Rotate the wheel with some pressure on the lever. removal of the lines will show you have maximum contact across the rotor to confirm your adjustment.
I tried this adjustment, right out of the Clymer and Haynes manuals. I can't say it does not work, but my experience has not shown this technique to be optimal. I tried the sharpie and white board markers but there was always a fairly wide band of adjustment which would remove the marks. The technique I described is done 'by feel' and works better for me.

What would be great is if someone who is good at this technique, and can explain how the removal of marks looks, would make a youtube video. Since the technique is optical a video should work great!
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:22 PM   #13
usgser
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Not up on years of the RS airheads but guessing it's 20-30 years old anyway? How long since the brake fluid has been flushed and replaced? Brake fluid is seriously hydroscopic(sp?) as in attracts moisture like a blotter. Once your fluid gets water logged braking gets exciting. Water makes a VERY bad hyd fluid. Hyd brakes is a pretty simple system with few moving parts but the heart/life blood of the system is clean uncontaminated brake fluid. On a used but new to you rig cover the basics before you start throwing money and parts at it. If it's been years since a fluid swap you'll likely have to replace some hard parts also that are internally rusted from using water as a brake fluid. Start with the mandatory maintenance basics before shopping for parts.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:54 PM   #14
SOLO LOBO
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Old and cheap brake pads may be your issue, the right pads make a big difference.

I'd say to try Galfer green pads. They are organic and while wearing quickly grip really well and don't wear the rotors as much as other high friction pads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:21 PM   #15
Rob Farmer
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Have a look at the hub side of the rotor. If there's an indentation worn in the disc near the hub where the pad first makes contact you will never get them adjusted properly. You need nice flat discs and decent pads to stand any chance. The problem with going for a handlebar mounted conversion on an earlier RS is you also need the later rubber impact pad that sits under the clocks - not cheap and can be hard to find 2nd hand.
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