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Old 07-05-2010, 11:13 PM   #46
Marta-GS OP
Discovering the world
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Switzerland/Spain
Oddometer: 149
Hi again guys!
As usual, thanks a mil for your comments, I read them avidly and don't feel alone thanks to them, please, keep posting, I love them!!!
(I apologize for not answering them one by one but I have no time!!!)

Below the latest update:

5th July 2010
Geilo - Stryn
340 Km.

Yesterday when I arrived to Geilo sky was getting cloudy and wind had started to blow.
Today I've been waken up around 6 by the howling of the wind... Oh-oh... I'm afraid that today weather is not going to be so nice...
When I finally woke up at 8h the sky was totally grey and wind was still blowing.
What a difference from yesterday!!!
(luckily yesterday, I my first day in Norway, weather was kind enough to give me a wonderful day!)

I packed everything, finished the orange juice I got yesterday from the hamburguer kiosk and left the apartment even cleaner that I had found it (didn't want to be charged for an extra cleaning service!).

Today sunglasses are not needed.
It's going to start raining any moment...

Took road 7 up to Hol and there I changed to road 50.
I stopped in a Statoil petrol station to get breakfast for Heidi.
Then I realize that the SIM card I got on Saturday (from a company called 'Chess') is not working yet... (a lady on the line is telling something in Norwegian that I somehow understand that means that the SIM is not registered).
In this petrol station they also sell this type of cards so I ask the lady behind the counter for help. She is extremly helpful and does all the registration process for me (apparently the petrol station from Kristiansand hadn't done that). In theory in a couple of hours it's going to work. Good!

Just before I leave the petrol station it starts to rain. Not a lot, just a bit. Mmmmm...

Road 50 starts to climb. Landscape is really beautiful. I take some pics but no many. There are endless electric towers everywhere and it's difficult to make a nice pic without taking some of them...

I see the first 'beware of sheep' road sign. I'm very cautious with sheep. Last summer during a trip to Iceland a group of 3 sheep gave me the biggest fright of my life. They crossed in front of me and my F650GS in a pretty fast strip of the road. One of them even bumped into my right leg! (but with no consequences for any of us). So now, when I'm told that sheep are around, I usually slow down and try be extracareful...

I take a pic of the sign and see that there are some sheep around. They are in small groups (2-3), exactly the same as in Iceland. But they look a bit different... More 'tidy'. Anyway, they are sheep and you never know what they are going to do, so be careful!

As the road winds up the hill, temperature goes down... It gets down to 10 degrees Celsius. And it rains a bit more... Still bearable.

One the way down to Aurland there are some tunnels to take. The first of them is pretty long... and cold!!! Temp goes to 7 degrees in there, I was freezing! The others are not so long and hence not so cold. Rain is getting annoying...

I stop in Aurland for an early lunch. No way I can picnic today. I get a couple of sandwitches. One with smoked salmon and eggs and the other with shrimps and eggs. Good dose of protein! And expensive! Everything is really expensive in Norway!

I had come to Aurland because I wanted to take the mountain road to Laerdal (the one called 'the Snow Road'). However, now it was raining so much that I thought it was not going to be fun... To finish convinving myself, I tell myself that this spring I've seen enough snow in the Alps mountain roads...

The alternative to the mountain road is the Laerdal tunnel. It's almost 25 Km long and is the world longest road tunnel (second one is the Gotthard, in Switzerland). So it will be also 'an experience'...
Tunnel is gratis, no toll. Well paved, lighted and ventilated (not as some of the tunnels I did this morning). One 'interesting' thing about the tunnel are the 3 blue caverns. They are 3 sections of the tunnel that get wider and higher (a dome-like structure) and they are lit with blue lights. The first one I saw came as a surprise. But the effect is really nice. I stopped at the second one and took some pics (there was plenty of people doing the same). I learnt later in the day that even a couple got married in one of the caverns!

Once in Laerdal the idea was following road 5 until Sogndal. It was not raining now, yeiiii!!! I did something wrong in one of the roundabouts in Laerdal (thinking about other things, have to admit – everything was perfectly signalized) so I get into a wrong road (without realizing) that brought me to Vindidalen, where it ended. No regrets. The view of the fjord was great and the road was great fun.

Went back to Laerdal, took the correct road to Manhetter and there I took the ferry to Fodnes. Was a bit nervous before taking it, but then I realized that everything was easy and very well organized. I was happy to feel the ferry deck had a good grip, even wet. What a difference from the ferry to Tunisia from January!!! It was so slippery that you even had difficulties to walk, imagine manouvering a bike!

Once in Fodnes took road to Sogndal. Was raining again. And more and more... The landscape from Sogndal to Lunde was beautiful! Very beautiful But it was raining so much that I didn't feel for stopping and taking pics. Was a bit pissed off. When getting closer to Lunde I could see one of the tongues of the Jostedalbreen (the biggest glacier in continental Europe). That was a great sight so I stopped and managed to take a couple of pics under the rain. Camera got wet and I was not very happy about it but I had to take a pic of that!!! But I love glaciers! On my way back I'll try to come to this area again and hopefully weather will be better. If I have time, I'll join one of the guided tours in the glacier (did it last year in the Vatnajokull in Iceland -the biggest glacier of Europe- and was one of the best experiences ever!). Forgot to mention that this is a tool road. Had to pay around 75 NOKs.

It was raining more and more. I stopped in Skie for a late lunch for Heidi and a warm latte macchiato for me. SIM card still not working. Called the customer service from Chess and they couldn't tell me why. The lady on the phone told me she was going to call me back. I'm starting to get impatient with this people. I've travelled around the world getting SIM cards everywhere and never had these issues. Unacceptable!

Went on the road again. Looked like if rain was going to stop. Wrong impression! It got even heavier in a few Km. Was starting to get cold and I had that feeling of being wet. I know I wasn't (the Streeetward jacket and pants from BMW are great!) but I had the feeling...

Have to admit that was riding a bit tense. Too much water now. Pouring down from the sky, and being sprayed from the road by the vehicles on the opposite direction. I wanted the sun back!!!

When arriving to Byrkjelo I even forgot that I had to change road (wanted to go to Geiranger!) and continued up to Sandanes. I started to think I was doing something wrong but it was raining so much I didn't feel for stopping and checking.

After Sandane, ther was a break in the clouds.Sun was shyly shining and rain had almost stopped (but interestinglz just under that break). I realized I was in the wrong direction. F***! I was not goin to undo what I had done (hate coming back using the same road!) and weather that was not inviting at all (so cloudy you couldn't see the mountains!). Decided to ride to Anda and take the ferry to Lote. Once there, I was going to head to Geiranger. Not the 'straightest' route but I really wanted to get there.

Timing with the ferry was perfect. I arrived to the harbour, paid and got in! It was almost not raining now and the riding gear was getting dry (this is a very good thing of this jacket/pants – as soon as it stops raining, they get dry very quickly. Btw, don't be suspicious, I'm not sponsored by BMW (I wish I was!) but when something works well, I think is fair to acknowledge it.

I knew I had not done many Km today (and some of them had not been in the right direction) but I wanted to stop. With that idea on my mind, I rode through Nordfjordeid and took the road to Stryn. Decided that I was going to stop in the first nice place I found.

The road to Stryn was funny (no rain now!!!) and, as usual, landscape was nice so I had a great time. Once in Stryn I saw an hotel but it looked a bit too expensive so I tried to find an alternative. I ended up in the Stryn Vertshus. Looked welcoming and when checking the price decided I could afford it. Rooms were in the penthouse and were very cozy! There was a common space with cooking facilities so I rushed to the supermarket to get some food. Intrestingly there is a chain in Norway called Coop, same as in Switzerland! Colors of the logo are different but font type is even the same...

Got a tin of asparagus (felt I needed some fiber) and a fish soup. I also got some vitamin/mineral capsules (thought I had not been eating extremely healthy these last days, and didn't know how it was going to be the next ones).

Went to the ATM again (NOKs disapear from my wallet astonishingly fast!), bought a sticker for Heidi and went back 'home', where I had dinner and a very warm shower!

(By the way, I'm still waiting the Chess customer service to call and the SIM is not yet working, hahaha!!!)

And, as usual, some pics of the day:

Route Geilo-Stryn (not the more straight one, but fine!):

Road 50. Sky getting darker and darker...

Sheep! Be careful!


One of the blue caverns of the Laerdal Tunnel:

Vindedalen. Wrong road but nice view!

Ferry from Manhetter to Fodnes

Somewhere between Sogndal and Lunde (Jostedalsbreen Nat. Park)

One of the tongues of the Jostedalsbreen:

Going back wasn't an option...

Second ferry of the day:

My home today:


All pics here:
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage.
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Old 07-06-2010, 05:56 AM   #47
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: VA
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Love the Pics, looks like your having a true adventure, you know rain is the best part of every adventure not really but it makes for some interesting memories. Be safe
Knuckle Dragging Silver Back

Free Your Mind...And Your Ass Will Follow
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:23 AM   #48
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Location: - South Africa -
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Hi Martha,
Loving your RR. Just curious about the sort of temperatures you
are experiencing on your trip and what does a McD hamburger cost.

Take care and looking forward to the rest of your trip
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:12 PM   #49
Marta-GS OP
Discovering the world
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Switzerland/Spain
Oddometer: 149
Originally Posted by Wheelman
Hi Martha,
Loving your RR. Just curious about the sort of temperatures you
are experiencing on your trip and what does a McD hamburger cost.

Take care and looking forward to the rest of your trip
Hi Wheelman,
Can't remember what I paid for the McD hamburguer, ugh!
Didn't check the temps the first day (the sunny one) but yesterday with the rain it was around 12 degrees Celsius (inside some tunnels, even less!).
Today was not so rainy but was doing mountain roads (snow very close in the mountains). Was 10 degreees most of the morning (going to 8 in a tunnel). I was freezing!
Afternoon was in the coast and although windy, it was sunny. I would say around 17-20 degrees.
Taking a shower now, eating something and let's see if I can write today's update before going to bed (I'm very tired, I doubt it ).
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage.
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:31 PM   #50
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Fantastic pics! Thanks for the detailed report and link to more pics.. Most enjoyable
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:40 PM   #51
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Karlsruhe, Germany
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Thanks for taking us along!

I've been in Norway last year, but had to rush through the southern part, so it's still 'on my list'. If I had the time, I'd pack my bike tonight and get on tomorrow's ferry ...

Don't worry about the rain, I'm sure the sun will be back as fast as the rain came.

Blue Sky!
Reports: Nordkapp - Mt. St. Helen - Black Sea - Iceland - Morocco - Balkan
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:39 PM   #52
Marta-GS OP
Discovering the world
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Switzerland/Spain
Oddometer: 149
Hi guys,
Yesterday evening was very tired and had no time for the report.
This morning couldn't get up as early as I wanted (was sleeping sooooo well!!! ) so today there will be no RR ... (and no pics either, sorry).
I'll do my best to catch up this evening!
Just wanted to tell you that yesterday was in Geiranger. Beautiful! But too crowded, spoilt with so many tourists.
After that I did the Atlantic Road (the one with the bridges connecting small islands). A bit disapointing. the pictures I had seen in internet before leaving were awesome. Reality was OK.
After that headed to Trondheim (E39). Not a soul. Great road! Stopped to sleep close to Orkanger (can't remember the name of the place where I am - it's not on the map, I'll check this morning).
Heading to to Bodo today. I'll take road 17, the coastal one (thanks for the advice I've received!!!).
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one’s courage.
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:13 AM   #53
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: San Diego North County
Oddometer: 25
Hey Marta,

Very much enjoying your RR and photos. My grandfather emigrated from Norway to the US in 1890 so I'd like to return and do a trip like yours and visit relatives. Have you been introduced to lutefisk yet? Best taken with lots of akvavit. See link here for more info.

Best wishes for a exciting and safe journey,
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:24 AM   #54
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Warsaw, Poland
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Maybe Poland

Should you want to see some polish landscapes do not hestiate to change your route while returning - do it via Warsaw. I can help with accomodation if you need. All the best.
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:31 AM   #55
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Thessaloniki - Greece
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Great RR Marta!! Thank's for taking us there with your pictures!!!!
All the best for the rest of your trip!!
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:08 PM   #56
Joined: Sep 2009
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Hei Marta-GS

You are most welcome for a cup of coffee when passing Steinkjer:-)
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:17 PM   #57
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Location: Upstate NY
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Marta, Beautiful photo's, thanks so much. I saved the one of the wooden building with the extending roof lines for a future school house remodel. Stay safe & good for you getting out there!
"Happiness consists not in having much,
but in being content with little."

08 DL1000
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:42 PM   #58
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Excellent pictures and looking forward to more of the ride report.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:57 AM   #59
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne
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Marta is everything allrigth with you?
you didnt upload anything few day's ...
hope to here from you soon
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:11 AM   #60
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Location: Karlsruhe, Germany
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Maybe just lack of WiFi?

Marta, someone told me there's free WiFi at all Statoil stations, but I never checked it out ...
Reports: Nordkapp - Mt. St. Helen - Black Sea - Iceland - Morocco - Balkan
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