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Old 03-02-2012, 05:22 PM   #61
dorkpunch OP
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More. Got one of the muffler mounts built and welded on. Made a sort of isolation mount out of a rubber stopper.

Drilled a hole through it:



Cut it in half.



Welded up a bracket... Its ugly. Drilled and tapped a hole in the rearset mount, and here it is installed:





Still plan on doing one more just like it a little further back that will hang off of the frame where the brake light switch used to be.

Also got the pin welded to the kickstand tab and then the hole for the cotter pin drilled.



Now to weld the tab to the rearset on the left side!
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:05 PM   #62
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Bit more over the last week. Got the tab welded on to the rearset bracket. Its functional, but man do my welds stink. Drilled a hole in the kicstand and put this pin into keep it from over-extending- it hits the "tabs" on the "tab".



Stuck it on, and viola! It stands on its own 3 legs again! Still have to come up with a spring and figure out how to attach it.








I've also been hemmin and hawwin over what to do about the rear brake. I just couldn't see any good way to get the pedal attached to the brake, so I decided on something simple and went with it. I'm still not sure its going to work very well... open to suggestions.

Measurin & markin'



Lightening



Cutting



Fergot to take a pic of it all bent up, but then I welded it to the pedal. You can see what the pedal looked like before, and then now with the goofy bent & twisted tab for the brake line.





And on the bike:



Still worried about the brake rod. It's going to have to have a kink in it to go under the axle there.

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Old 03-07-2012, 09:52 PM   #63
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If you change the length of the torque arm you should be able to rotate the backing plate so the brake rod clears the axle.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:28 AM   #64
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That was on my list of things to check... I'm not sure I can also rotate the brake lever on the brake plate though. If I spin the whole brake plate like you suggest, the lever would have to be pulled UP instead of FORWARD. Still working on it... things to check.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:08 PM   #65
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Nuther micro step forward: the kicstand foot and toe lever. Or whatever the heck they're called.

Mark, torch, and grind...



Weld... Some HOT metal!



Done.



On the bike:

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Old 03-15-2012, 06:40 PM   #66
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Looks like spinning the backing plate will work fine!

Made a new shorter lever:



And some shots of it in its home:







Might have to kink the brake pull rod just a bit to go around the swing arm, but its pretty much a straight shot down to the lever.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:44 PM   #67
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The 1968 YG5-T that handed my old Suzuki TS90's it's ass in a flat track race had an expansion chamber that looked nothing like your fabricated one. I'm just saying that the old GYT kit chambers were smaller and much more well mandreled. If anything they were very minimalist in bend but had a generous sized chamber and a shorter stinger.

I'd be focusing on upping the compression some and getting into the ports and smoothing the heck out of those old rough-cast transfer ports and passageways. The GYT kits also came with a really radical looking, huge radially finned head, I hear they're quite rare now.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:59 PM   #68
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Wish I would have found this about 2 years ago... Paid less for it than I have for a fifth of the parts on it I've bought piecemeal. Its in amazing shape and nearly 100% complete- the guy thinks he has the tank for it but no guarantee. I plan on using a few bits off it here and there, but I'm pretty sure I can have two complete bikes here- one bone stock and POJ- the cafe.







Yup, under 900 miles. Assuming the speedo works...

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:33 AM   #69
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how much would u charge to build one of those pipes? obviously plus shipping cost.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:28 PM   #70
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Kind of at an impass trying to find a plug for the oil pump... got distracted with this.







Tried it on the real bike, I think its WAYYY to big.









Planning on knocking an inch of the top and almost two off the bottom, shown by the black lines.



Ordered a sheet of aluminum, but I'm going to make the first one out of cold rolled steel... going to try my hand at brazing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:59 PM   #71
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I hate it when distractions come up....
Most times, those cost more money!
Do you still need a oil pump block off plate?


Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Kind of at an impass trying to find a plug for the oil pump... got distracted with this.



Ordered a sheet of aluminum, but I'm going to make the first one out of cold rolled steel... going to try my hand at brazing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:56 PM   #72
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Jeezzz... that would be too easy!!! Why don't I think of things like that? Where would I even find one? Seems like there is a shaft sticking out, do they cover that up or does the shaft have to be removed? I'd appreciate any info you can give me. Thanks!
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Jeezzz... that would be too easy!!! Why don't I think of things like that? Where would I even find one? Seems like there is a shaft sticking out, do they cover that up or does the shaft have to be removed? I'd appreciate any info you can give me. Thanks!
This shows they are still available. Item # 29

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oem...84b04/oil-pump

Not your model, but, one size fits all and the illustration will help. The shaft should come off without too much fuss....
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:49 AM   #74
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Awfully quiet from the eastern side of Idaho.....
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:00 PM   #75
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Yeah... Been busy with everything else. You can read about it here: http://dorkpunch.com

Been practicing my TIG welding in hopes I might some day be able to build a tank for this beast.
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