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Old 11-27-2010, 03:20 PM   #16
IslandMonkey
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Wow, a 4-month delay on the report … embarrassing.
Without that delay I'd have missed this report. Scandinavia is on my 'to do list' within the next few years.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:13 AM   #17
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You've taken some beautiful pictures! Thanks for sharing them.

Tunnel fees? Tell us!
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:26 AM   #18
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Nice shot with the moon ...
I've been there around 1989 (on a bicycle trip to Goeteborg), so I skipped visiting the place this time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MustTourEurope
My version of Kronborg Castle in Helsingør...and it's big guns :-)
[...]
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedediah
[...]
I have two questions if you do not mind:

1. You changed tents. How did the new one work over all?

2. In post 4 above, you stated: "(You'll probably know about the tunnel and the entry/exit fee etc. so I won't bother you with details.)" I would love the details on the tunnel and fees :-)
[...]
Jed.
1.
I switched from a VauDe Space II to a Wechsel Outpost Zero G (which was significantly reduced in price - its expensive otherwise).

The Space II is small, strong, lightweight, durable and can be set up in 3min - mine is 16 years old now.

Looking for a tent with a real apsis, but similar weight I bought the Outpost. The apsis has a great ventilation as its roof is basically a fly-screen with a separate (removable) roof on top. The asymmetric inner tent is cool, too.
I was not so happy with the material, as it needs a lot of attention when getting wet. Also, while I could fix the Space II between the bike and e.g. a pannier under normal conditions, this tent needs countless tent pegs to keep it from buffeting.


So ... its a great tent, especially for 2, but if you're veeery tired and/or lazy, it's a PITA. I took the old tent on the next trip again, but it's really worn out now. Not sure, what to do next.

Does anyone knows a tent <3.5kg which can be set up within 3min and has a design like this?
(picture stolen from 1st google hit)


2.
(We're talking about the 'tourist trap'-Nordkapp here - The actual most-northern point of mainland Europe is a few kilometers away and not known very well. I heard about it when I was on my way back ...)
The place can only be reached through a tunnel which is a toll road. As you HAVE to take the same road back, it's a little ridiculous that they then charge you again.
There is another entry fee for motorized vehicles for the last bit with the sculpture etc. If you're cheap, you can park your bike a little bit down the road (where I pitched my tent) and walk the last bit (maybe 1-2km).
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:47 PM   #20
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Thanks for the nice comments, here's the next installment. I want to finish this, as there's a new report to be written ...


We arrived on the island of Austvagsoya around 8am. Everyone was still sleeping and the RVs had build a corral in defense against the Vikings.



Some hours later I hit Borg (no, not the Star Trek ones) and saw this:



Carefully I got closer.






The ships were deserted, but there were signs that someone was living nearby.



A little bit up the hill were some small huts with a black smith’s workshop in one of them.





Maybe he could make me something nice for my bike ... like some fancy handle bars?



But when he told me that he was an apprentice and currently working on horseshoe nails, I thought I’d better drop the idea.
I left the smith and got to the of the hill, where most of the vikings had set up their trades. You could buy food, get drunk on met or shop for some new clothes.






Something seemed to be wrong. Shouldn't they worship Thor? These guys seemed to be more into ski jumping ...



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pip_muenster screwed with this post 11-28-2010 at 01:13 PM
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pip_muenster


[/SIZE]
That particular architecture reminds me of a high ski jump ramp I see on sports channels
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustTourEurope
That particular architecture reminds me of a high ski jump ramp I see on sports channels
Ok, you got me there. I corrected my typo above.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:49 PM   #23
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Continuing my voyage along the Lofoten islands I was again overwhelmed by the landscape. Also, the weather changed from dramatic to nice & sunny.



There were a couple of small restaurants offering fresh sea food in one of the fisher villages, so I stopped for lunch.





I finally reach the town of Å - that's the shortest town name in all of Norway. Near the harbor were some nice rocks with a guarantee for a beautiful sunrise - providing the sun would eventually set.
Dozens of young people had invaded the area and put up their tents everywhere. I gave in and retrieved to the nearby camp site.
Although it was crowded with bikers, bicyclists and RVs it was promising a hot shower and - more important - some silence at night.
Sitting at the coast, I considered my options: I could take the ferry to Bodo on the mainland. This would give me time to check on the fjords in the south.
Or I could take the ferry to Rost, the southern-most island in the Lofoten group. There were not many people living on Rost, but it was known as a bird's paradise.


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Old 12-01-2010, 07:43 PM   #24
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Very nice. Why don't you take RV 17 from Bodo, and visit my hometown Glomfjord, then continue south on 17 towards and past Svartisen glacier (trust me you won't be disappointed) then just follow 17 south. Incredible scenery. If not you would have to spend hours on E6 across Saltfjellet. Man I miss trout-fishing back home.......ride on!
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:36 PM   #25
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We arrived on the island of Austvagsoya around 8am. Everyone was still sleeping and the RVs had build a corral in defense against the Vikings.
Hahahaha!

I need more vikings!
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:37 AM   #26
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The next morning I saw the islands passing on the ferry. It looked like someone had thrown huge rocks into the ocean.





Typical for the area are the racks to dry the fish. As this is only done at the end of the season in Spring, there was no fish now.



I also passed this small island with the 2 hill tops, reminding me on a famous children's book 'Jim Knopf'. Can you see the tunnels and railtracks on Lummerland? I think I can.



One house in the harbor of Rost caught the eye.



The guy living here is the tour guide, offering boat trips to the last small islands which are a bird's reservation.

When I arrived at that pier, I met a nice, young woman with a packed bicycle, preparing her lunch. She strongly reminded me on Smilla Jaspersen. (No photo here, but you may know the actress Julia Ormond ...)

A lot of other tourists showed up which were then told to climb on the tourist boat and a fisherman's boat. It seemed like the number of people for the tourist boat was limited, so most of us ended up on the latter.
It also seemed to be more fun ...

Some parents had brought a special life vest for their kid - not a bad idea as there was nothing but a single rescue raft on our boat. I pointed to that vest asking Smilla whether she'd brought her own vest, too ... She turned pale and decided to switch boast. Have I punched a nerve there?









We stopped at the last island to visit an old lighthouse. It's lens was actually manufactured by Frenel
himself and is a masterpiece.



Here we met the other group again, each of them wearing a high-vis life vest. Life on the fisherman's boat was somehow more relaxed ...



The best place was right at it's bow.



Walking on the water?



After half a day on the sea we came back to Rost.



Next: Back on the bike.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:03 AM   #27
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Really enjoying reading this, looking forward to more.
Thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:35 AM   #28
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Well done. Thanks for posting.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:21 AM   #29
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Viking? Is that a horned helmet in the shadow?
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:55 PM   #30
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It was getting late and I had to decide how to spend the night. There was a hotel and even a camp site on Rost. I however thought I’d be smart by sleeping on the night ferry to Bodo.



First something else. The sun almost set down. I hadn’t seen a sunset since leaving Sweden, so I was quite excited.



Night on the water. It’s long past midnight, the sun is still visible – and I can’t sleep.



Off the ferry I immediately pulled over to put on my thermo gear again. It was cold and I didn’t had any sleep in the night. After a couple more miles on the E6 I gave in and turned into a rest area, where I laid down on a bench. Thermo coverall, boots, gloves still on – but I finally got 1 or 2 hours of sleep. Next stop was a Statoil station for some coffee.

The road climbed a bit higher and it got colder, with some ice and snow on the ground – though not on the road. I then arrived at the polar circle for the obligatory photo stop.



Lots of tourists had been here before me and cleared up every single stone on the ground. If you want to build your own stone man, you’d better bring some stones.



This night I didn’t bother to set up my tent between Dutch and German RVs on a camp site. I do remember a hot shower … but other than that there had probably been nothing, but sleep.

A little bit further south were some nice archaeological sites. There’s an interpretation that these carvings depict the boats and crews visiting this place. Hym, where’s my chisel, surely there is some space left for my bike on that rock, don’t you think?



Riding further south also meant getting into the fjord area – and thus ferries. Lots of them, if you take the road at the coast. The good thing is that you learn patience. If you want to rush through the country, you’re in the wrong part of this world. Go to Kansas if you want to do an ironbutt run.



I ended the day near Molde on a camp site right next to an airport, wondering whether I would be woken up by a jet starting right through my tent. I noticed some other German bikes and when I put up my tent I was visited by a young couple. They had seen my license plate indicating that we were from the same area. Long story short, it turned out that the girl was actually working for the same company as I do …



They told me about the beauty of southern Norway and all the places I would need to visit. Great. Unfortunately, I had an issue here: My back tire had come very close to its end. I had the replacement waiting for me in a motorbike shop right near the ferry in Germany, so I decided for a short fjord tour only, before heading directly towards Oslo.
I wasn’t in the mood to take risks here, as I had been through that on a previous tour not to long ago …



First, the Geiranger fjord. Obligatory part of every single cruise ship tour to Norway.

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