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Old 02-16-2011, 09:03 PM   #121
bxr140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
I have no personal experience with it, but I have only read bad things about the 21" front K60.
Buddy has them on his SE. My [somewhat limited] impression? Meh. I wouldn't buy one. Its kinda in the same league as a Gripster...not enough for serious off road, but crappy on road. The worst of both worlds, as it were. Personally, I'd rather take the shorter life and crappy wear of a true dual sport knob like the MT21 or 606, or the mostly street oriented-ness of an Anakee or Tourance.

If it matters, IMHO, if you want a 'tweener' dual sport tire, I've had great experience with the IRC GP-1 on a KLR. Mileage hit 5 figures with usable tread, peg dragging stick at street pressures, and because the sidewall is really soft, when you air it down it really conforms to whatever you're riding over. Plus, its like $52.
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:27 PM   #122
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Beggars can't be choosers and my options were limited, very limited. In San Cristobal, all I was able to find was a Pirelli Scorpion A/T or a MT60. They are virtually identical. The only difference appeared to be a thin continuous groove down the middle of the A/T.

I opted for the MT60. 800 pesos, seemed a bit expensive (for Mexico) but when you're the only shop in town with stock you can charge what you like I suppose

I would have preferred something more aggressive but I doubt I'll be off road much from this point on. I think I'll be on pavement the whole way with the exception of Copper Canyon.

The MT60 looks pretty similar to the front K60. Hopefully it works better.



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Old 02-19-2011, 07:09 PM   #123
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Let us know how you make out with that K60. It looks really nice for street and hardpacked.

Oh yeah, and that wear with the MT-21 is normal. I get about 8000Km out of a front MT-21.

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Old 02-19-2011, 07:57 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaner32 View Post
Let us know how you make out with that K60. It looks really nice for street and hardpacked.

Oh yeah, and that wear with the MT-21 is normal. I get about 8000Km out of a front MT-21.

If I can regularly get 8000km out of knobby then I guess I should be happy.

Every time I see a magnesium F8 all decked out in gear I think I should paint my bike....again. That really is the best color
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:26 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
Every time I see a magnesium F8 all decked out in gear I think I should paint my bike....again. That really is the best color
Some refer to it as Quick Silver, because it's the fastest of the F800GS bikes.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:30 AM   #126
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Some refer to it as Quick Silver, because it's the fastest of the F800GS bikes.
That's what I wanted originally but I would have had to wait 2 months to get it so I ended up with a DeWalt. Sigh.
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:55 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
If I can regularly get 8000km out of knobby then I guess I should be happy.

Every time I see a magnesium F8 all decked out in gear I think I should paint my bike....again. That really is the best color
I'll trade ya my magnesium panels for your white ones. They've got a few small scratches here and there from a small bush I rode through (we need a facepalm smilie) but are otherwise good.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
Every time I see a magnesium F8 all decked out in gear I think I should paint my bike....again. That really is the best color
No question about that, Oso.



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Old 02-20-2011, 01:54 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
I'll trade ya my magnesium panels for your white ones. They've got a few small scratches here and there from a small bush I rode through (we need a facepalm smilie) but are otherwise good.
My white panels are rattle can and not in very good shape (palstic welded in a few spots). Even if I did find a set of magnesium ones, they wouldn't do me much good now with the TouraTech tank.

Matching the matte texture of the OEM paint would be tough to do or so I'm told by the couple body shops I spoke with prior to painting the bike orange.
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:22 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post

Matching the matte texture of the OEM paint would be tough to do or so I'm told by the couple body shops I spoke with prior to painting the bike orange.
Single-stage semi-gloss seems to do a pretty good job.

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Old 02-21-2011, 06:55 AM   #131
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Any problems with that leo vince slip on coming loose or popping free from the tubing because it is just fitted inside and not welded or spring clamped?

Great inexpensive upgrade if it's just that easy to cut the stocker and then reweld the pannier racks to equal width. Great job getting rid of the boat anchor stock can hehe

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Old 02-21-2011, 07:36 AM   #132
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Any problems with that leo vince slip on coming loose or popping free from the tubing because it is just fitted inside and not welded or spring clamped?

Great inexpensive upgrade if it's just that easy to cut the stocker and then reweld the pannier racks to equal width. Great job getting rid of the boat anchor stock can hehe

No issues with it at all. The OD the pipe is so close to the ID of the slip-on that it's a nice tight fit. With all the heat and dirt, I expect by now it stuck on good and solid. Even if it was a hair loose the clamp mount to the sub frame holds it in place.

dendrophobe, I'll have to check that out when I get home. Thanks.
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Camel ADV screwed with this post 04-02-2011 at 12:01 AM
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:01 PM   #133
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F800GS front rim

i just got back from the cape and f8 went well, only casualty was the Behr front rim, more dings than a NY cab, thinking the excell, any other recommendations
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:30 PM   #134
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i just got back from the cape and f8 went well, only casualty was the Behr front rim, more dings than a NY cab, thinking the excell, any other recommendations
No, I don't have any other recommendations for you. I'm sure Sun, DID etc would be plenty strong through but I have no experience with them. I couldn't be happier with my Excel rims. They've taken a beating and are still straight as an arrow. 2 thumbs up for Woody's Wheel Works!
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:22 PM   #135
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I was very happy with the bike on the Latin America trip. I'm slowly picking away at the few things left that I want to upgrade or change.

I'd really like to try to make some kevlar/carbon fiber armor pieces for the lower tank corners. Seems like a great thing to play with in the winter months.

Also would like to seal the rear rim so I can run it tubeless. I'm not so much against tubes but I'm trying real hard to get down on the amount of spare crap I carry. A spare front and rear tube take up a reasonable amount of space and add weight. I'd like to run a Tubliss insert up front and have Woody seal the rear. Hopefully I can get away with carrying a single front tube and use it in the rear in a pitch if required.

The stock seat still sucks. I haven't figured out what brand or model I might buy yet. For now the AirHawk will have to do it's thing.

The Pivot Pegs are OK but I feel cramped on the bike. I've had a few knee injuries and the older I get the more they bother me. Long rides make it damn near impossible to walk after. I'm hoping a pair of 2" lowered pegs from Precision Engineering will help with that.

Also in the ergo field, some new bars are required. I've been running 3.5" Rox Risers since the bike was new. I don't like all the pivoting points on them, they feel very unstable. Also with the 3.5" risers, the bike looks kinda goofy. Some Pro-Taper Pastrana FMX bars are on the way. I'm hoping the added height and lessened sweep on the bars and the lower pegs will make standing while riding more comfortable.

The last piece of my puzzle (first to be installed) is the Ralle-Moto RM1 stabilizer. I chose the RM1 as the bar clamps are bridged which will eliminate the issues I had with the Rox set-up.

It arrived today. The machine work is excellent! It's a beautiful piece of equipment. I love billet anything and this was no exception.

There were 2 sets of instructions. One from Ralle-Moto and the other from Best Rest (I assume). They were crystal clear and in 30 leisurely minutes I was done.

Original set-up. 3.5 Rox Risers and a Highway Dirt Bike bridged top clamp.


Yank the top clamp off. I managed to twist off 2 allen keys trying to get this off. Perhaps anti seize is required?!




I'm hoping the additional height of the mount (looks to be about 1 1/4" over stock) with the Pastrana bars will equal that of the Rox bits coming out.




Real easy to get the "security" bolts out of the ignition plate. What's the point of having special tamper proof bolts if they are easily backed out with vise grips? They weren't tight at all
Pin plate and lower mount installed:


Attach the actual stabilizer unit to the lower mount with the supplied stainless bolts:


Add the top clamp and call it a night!


Now I need to find a home for my USB connector, cigarette lighter plug and SAE plug. Other than that it turned out will.


As an added bonus, the new bolts that hold the whole thing to the triple clamps use nut with a 17mm head. The stock use 16mm. There isn't a 16mm anywhere else on the bike that I've found. I found it annoying. It's such a stupid size that is rarely in a metric tool kit so I was carrying one just for the bar clamps. Why you ask? Because after a good crash the stock bar bolts can bend badly, easily. This is especially true with the extra leverage that bar risers add. And yes, I know that 5/8" is close enough that it works and they are easy to find anywhere in North America but not the case most other places.

So that was a long winded way of saying, "Yah! One less wrench in my tool kit!".

Oh yeah, one more thing. The TT tank has been great but I really disliked having to get off the bike to turn the small plastic petcock levers that you are required to cut in half for clearance when you install the tank. Cold hands, wet hands, gloves, muddy bike etc make working the levers a PITA. Also, I always seem to not notice that I'm low on fuel when I'm stopped somewhere. I start riding again and the fuel light comes on. I have to stop and get off the bike to fuck with the little child size levers.

Stockers:





Solution: Leave the levers open all the time and add some brass fuel petcocks with long levers. Install the levers somewhere that you can flip them while riding. $20 in parts and here's what I got.

I removed the TT supplied hose support bracket that pinches under the one of the engine cover bolts with a simple "T" bracket used for strengthening shelves and cabinetry. $1.50 each at Lowe's. I cut the leg down, drilled the hole the right size and bolt it to the engine in place of the original bracket.

Original bracket:


I lost all the in-between pics but here is the "T" mounted and the brass valves mounted to them:


Real easy reach while riding.


The install is pretty basic and backyard mechanic style. I'm going to pick away at making it a bit cleaner and more legit looking but for now it works well.
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