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Old 01-10-2013, 02:03 PM   #15361
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Good deal on a 800xc?

Went into my local triumph dealer to check out an 800xc. Loved it! Then they let me take one for an hour long ride, now in truly in love! I decided while I was there, to see if I can get some numbers and actually afford one. The bike after TTL and prep/destination charges is $14,566. Then they are offering $3,500 for my 2000 ZRX 1100, plus they will take off $2000 from the $14,566. That would bring what I would finance to $9066 for 60mo at around $200/mo. Good deal?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:11 PM   #15362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-FAST View Post
Good deal on a 800xc?

Went into my local triumph dealer to check out an 800xc. Loved it! Then they let me take one for an hour long ride, now in truly in love! I decided while I was there, to see if I can get some numbers and actually afford one. The bike after TTL and prep/destination charges is $14,566. Then they are offering $3,500 for my 2000 ZRX 1100, plus they will take off $2000 from the $14,566. That would bring what I would finance to $9066 for 60mo at around $200/mo. Good deal?
MSRP is $11,999(US). Not sure where your located, but 14,566 seems like a rip off!
http://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/mo...specifications
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:14 PM   #15363
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
MSRP is $11,999(US). Not sure where your located, but 14,566 seems like a rip off!
http://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/mo...specifications
I concur. I paid $11,800 out the door with no trade.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #15364
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #15365
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look around. You can get a better deal than that. You can buy one at an out of town dealer over the web for far less.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:45 PM   #15366
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Dunno where you're located, but last I heard, Triumph's freight charge was $450 for all dealers in the continental US. Looks like your dealer is tacking on $350 in "prep" fees. You should be able to get them to eliminate those, and also drop the base price of the bike a bit -- and by the way, Triumph is still advertising $11,999 as the price for a 2013 Tiger 800 XC with ABS, so your dealer seems to be $600 too high. Assuming you're in the US.

Definitely shop around. You can do a lot better.

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Old 01-10-2013, 03:08 PM   #15367
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Ok. So I go to service the drive chain today after 6K miles, as in remove and soak in cleaner, and there is no master link. WTF? So what brand master link do I need or am I blind?
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:20 PM   #15368
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Thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by markbvt View Post
Dunno where you're located, but last I heard, Triumph's freight charge was $450 for all dealers in the continental US. Looks like your dealer is tacking on $350 in "prep" fees. You should be able to get them to eliminate those, and also drop the base price of the bike a bit -- and by the way, Triumph is still advertising $11,999 as the price for a 2013 Tiger 800 XC with ABS, so your dealer seems to be $600 too high. Assuming you're in the US.

Definitely shop around. You can do a lot better.

--mark
I'm at the bottom of Texas in Harlingen. Thanks for the info and advice. I personally wouldn't buy a bike from them ever, but was just curious what there numbers were. If I do go ahead and buy a Tiger, I will drive up to San Antonio and buy from Lonestar BMW/Triumph
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #15369
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Originally Posted by burmbuster View Post
Ok. So I go to service the drive chain today after 6K miles, as in remove and soak in cleaner, and there is no master link. WTF? So what brand master link do I need or am I blind?
I think all road bikes just have a rivet type master link and everyone just cleans it on the bike. Is this your first road bike/motorcycle? Obviously if you are wanting to take the chain off you'll have to grind it off. And then either put a new rivet link on or a clip type link in which case I'd use the same brand as the chain.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #15370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burmbuster View Post
Ok. So I go to service the drive chain today after 6K miles, as in remove and soak in cleaner, and there is no master link. WTF? So what brand master link do I need or am I blind?
Master links are riveted on roadbikes. You can get a new one from your parts house, but they're pretty tough to do without a riveting breaker tool. They don't cost that much. You could use a clip type link but most prefer a revited one for a bike that will do over a hundred.

Not a good idea to 'soak' an o-ring chain. The o-rings keep the grease inside the rollers and the dirt outside. Depending on what you're soaking with, can seep into the roller internals, and/or breakdown or swell the o-rings.

Better to hose it with WD and wipe down, use a wire brush to remove caked on lube/dirt mixture. Then apply a good chain lube.

Chain lube on a o-ring type chain is just to quiet it and reduce friction between the chain the sprocket teeth. Some have reported very long life just cleaning with WD40.

Everybody has their opinion though, it's like picking oil or tires.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:18 PM   #15371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I think all road bikes just have a rivet type master link and everyone just cleans it on the bike. Is this your first road bike/motorcycle? Obviously if you are wanting to take the chain off you'll have to grind it off. And then either put a new rivet link on or a clip type link in which case I'd use the same brand as the chain.
A chain tool will press out the pin, with no grinding necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by browneye View Post
Master links are riveted on roadbikes. You can get a new one from your parts house, but they're pretty tough to do without a riveting breaker tool. They don't cost that much. You could use a clip type link but most prefer a revited one for a bike that will do over a hundred.
Safety wire is what I do on a clip-style link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by browneye View Post
Not a good idea to 'soak' an o-ring chain. The o-rings keep the grease inside the rollers and the dirt outside. Depending on what you're soaking with, can seep into the roller internals, and/or breakdown or swell the o-rings.
Agreed.

Quote:
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Better to hose it with WD and wipe down, use a wire brush to remove caked on lube/dirt mixture. Then apply a good chain lube.
Do not use a wire brush, as it will tear up the O-rings. There are plenty of plastic-bristle, parts-cleaning brushes available; even a stiff toothbrush will work.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:25 PM   #15372
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A chain tool will press out the pin, with no grinding necessary.


So, you are saying you push the pin out without grinding the head off first? That's fucked up.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:09 PM   #15373
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So, you are saying you push the pin out without grinding the head off first? That's fucked up.
That's the way its done. The heads are rounded over with a press when the chain is assembled. A chain tool will press them out with no problem. Never heard of grinding the head off first.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:11 PM   #15374
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So, you are saying you push the pin out without grinding the head off first?
Yes. A nice chain tool (RK is what I have) will push it right out.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #15375
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That's the way its done. The heads are rounded over with a press when the chain is assembled. A chain tool will press them out with no problem. Never heard of grinding the head off first.
I don't see the point when grinding the head off makes everything much gentler.
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