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Old 03-17-2013, 08:45 PM   #16321
Sound Farm
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Went for it

Havent had a chance to post -I picked this beauty up a month ago - now just chomping at the bit for some good weather around here
Thanks to all the inmates - this forum helped tremendously making my decision

!photo bomb!


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Sound Farm screwed with this post 03-17-2013 at 08:57 PM
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #16322
burmbuster
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Nice pic. Congrats!
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:03 AM   #16323
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
But Oehlins are often off the shelf and not done for your weight. Or did you get a proper spring explicitly for your weight? If yes, where?
It depends. An Ohlins ordered through Triumph's OEM program is going to be a standard spec. However, if you order from a suspension specialist, they'll be built to the shop's spec by Ohlins in NC. If you use a suspension shop that has a shock dyno, they should verify the valving and spring rate, before shipping to you. Traxxion Dynamics offer a guaratee on their valving/springing; if you're not satisfied with it, they'll keep at it until you are satisfied. I ran my front springs, for a year. When I sent the forks back in for servicing, they swapped them to a lighter rate, at no charge for the springs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonsorrow View Post
I've replaced mine with a fully adjustable one from Hyperpro. Built from the ground up for my specs. Definetely cheaper than Ohlins, propably just as good .
I wouldn't go that far. I'm not an Ohlins nut (never owned one), but, from talking to the crew chief of an AMA rider, whose day job is at Traxxion (they offer several brands of shocks), the differences are inside. Some of the stuff he's seen inside of various shocks would constantly bother me, if I ever bought those brands.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:20 AM   #16324
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Originally Posted by john_h View Post
Lastly, I'd say the bike was maybe 1 - 1.5" too high for my preferences (5-10, 32 inseam). My thinking is that once I toss bags on, I'm getting closer on the rear. For those that have lowered the bike, have you found that it didn't compromise the handling too much?
When you lower the rear, you're raking out the frontend. If you're talking a bike with a soft-ish rear suspension, lowering only the rear will cause the bike to not finish turns even more. That means you'll be leaning the bike over further and further, yet, it won't turn. This will cause hard parts to drag and/or running off the outside of the turn's exit. You want to equally lower the front and rear. Lowering the front pays off, because most people, who are at their inseam limit, tend to slide forward on the seat at a stop. Don't be afraid to tinker with geometry, as you can always return it to the original position.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:30 AM   #16325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
When you lower the rear, you're raking out the frontend. If you're talking a bike with a soft-ish rear suspension, lowering only the rear will cause the bike to not finish turns even more. That means you'll be leaning the bike over further and further, yet, it won't turn. This will cause hard parts to drag and/or running off the outside of the turn's exit. You want to equally lower the front and rear. Lowering the front pays off, because most people, who are at their inseam limit, tend to slide forward on the seat at a stop. Don't be afraid to tinker with geometry, as you can always return it to the original position.
Copy that... 45 lbs of rack/bags on the back would probably allow me to raise the fork tubes at least 1/2", which may make the height acceptable - it's about the same height I have my F650 and multistrada right now, just 60 lbs heavier.

As I'd likely end up having a suspension shop tune the front and back to my liking, I might be able to factor in another 1/2" or so possibly? In either case, it looks like the height issue is workable from a couple of different angles.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:43 AM   #16326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_h View Post
As I'd likely end up having a suspension shop tune the front and back to my liking, I might be able to factor in another 1/2" or so possibly? In either case, it looks like the height issue is workable from a couple of different angles.
It certainly is - just be careful with what you do there. Maybe it's better to just get used to it. If you don't want a suspension shop to make the XC suspension as stiff as the Roadie suspension, you'll drag hard parts earlier on the XC if you bring it down so low. I wouldn't want to catch hard parts when cornering, might not be an issue for you, but as said before, the Tiger is fairly wide at the pegs, so that stuff drags very early without lowering either bike ...
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:40 AM   #16327
blacktiger
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Originally Posted by PVRnick View Post
Yes that is a good idea and I considered doing that while
I was making the plate but I want to keep the tube
waterproof if I can.
The tube isn't waterproof as supplied anyway as there's a hole in the side near the large mount. That's what's being covered by that bit of duct tape in my picture. The hole I drilled into the lid is "blind". i.e. it doesn't go right through.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:50 AM   #16328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
When you lower the rear, you're raking out the frontend. If you're talking a bike with a soft-ish rear suspension, lowering only the rear will cause the bike to not finish turns even more. That means you'll be leaning the bike over further and further, yet, it won't turn. This will cause hard parts to drag and/or running off the outside of the turn's exit. You want to equally lower the front and rear. Lowering the front pays off, because most people, who are at their inseam limit, tend to slide forward on the seat at a stop. Don't be afraid to tinker with geometry, as you can always return it to the original position.
I agree but with that guy's 32" inseam he shouldn't be struggling (I don't with my 30" with seat on high) which suggests that the rider sag isn't set right.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:56 AM   #16329
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
I agree but with that guy's 32" inseam he shouldn't be struggling (I don't with my 30" with seat on high) which suggests that the rider sag isn't set right.
I rather suspect a different comfort level with high and heavy bikes. And to be honest: riding in San Francisco is quite different from riding somewhere in the boonies.

So, don't compare just seat height and inseam, also consider what the daily ride might look like. I personally hate riding in San Francisco and I take every advantage I can get to do it. A light, flickable, low enough bike goes a long way there.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:18 PM   #16330
lmychajluk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
I agree but with that guy's 32" inseam he shouldn't be struggling (I don't with my 30" with seat on high) which suggests that the rider sag isn't set right.
I have about a 30" inseam, and just picked up my 800 last week. I'm up on my toes or the balls of my feet at best with the seat in the low position. Without changing links, etc..., is there some adjustment to the suspension? Will the bike 'settle' a little as it breaks in (~300mi on it now)?
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:36 PM   #16331
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I spoke with a fellow inmate with a lowered XC that has a shorter inseam than me (30-31" - as well as a former racer) and the bike height and handling accommodates him fine. Didn't ask specifically about dragging pegs or bottoming out in the turns, but I'd have to figure a guy with a racing history would have figured out if it was an issue... Seems I'll be ok there, whichever route I take - but I appreciate the input!

Oh - and regarding the suitability for riding in SF - our streets positively suck! I suspect the 21" wheel will be well-suited for all our potholes and constant road paving - the multi's 17" front no likey big dips (one of the reasons she'll be in the classifieds soon ;)
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:20 PM   #16332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmychajluk View Post
I have about a 30" inseam, and just picked up my 800 last week. I'm up on my toes or the balls of my feet at best with the seat in the low position. Without changing links, etc..., is there some adjustment to the suspension? Will the bike 'settle' a little as it breaks in (~300mi on it now)?
Good question (i have the same one :)...

I suppose you could back out the shock preload and raise the fork tubes incrementally until the geometry feels like it's proper, and see how that height feels. Doing so would throw your front/rear sags out of balance a bit, so to get them back in balance maybe experiment with some shorter spacers up front, then drop the tubes back to the original height and check the height/geometry again...

Anyways, off the top of my head, that would be my tinkering thoughts :)
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:05 PM   #16333
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Hey Sound Farm. That's a nice looking XC you picked up. Did you get it from Struthers?
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:06 PM   #16334
fullmonte
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Getting over this tree yesterday might have been more of a PITA on a lowered Tiger. Just something to consider...

The skid plate didn't exactly glide over the tree.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:19 PM   #16335
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
I agree but with that guy's 32" inseam he shouldn't be struggling (I don't with my 30" with seat on high) which suggests that the rider sag isn't set right.
Don't forget, different people have different comfort levels when it comes to bike height. I had a friend about my height sit on my tiger, and he wouldn't even ride it because he couldn't put both feel flat on the ground. And this guy has 10 years more experience than me, and I consider to be a very talented rider. But he's always ridden shorter bikes, so it was out of his comfort level.

But spend any time on a 900lb Valkyrie interstate, you learn to balance the bike before it stops. Someone coming from an orange Adventure S or R might be very comfortable with a single toe on the ground.
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