ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Beasts
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-24-2013, 07:45 AM   #17161
outagas
Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 19
tyres

Thanks for the info, mine is a 800 roadie (bloody fantastic bit of kit).

the Anakees3 sounds good, the last new tyre I bought was a 023 for my ZRX1100 but that was a heavy bike and i sold it shortly after.

the Scorpians are great in my opinion, im no knee scraper but i do get it over on roundabouts and long bends! id be happy with another set of Scorpians if they lasted longer?

good wet adhesion and long life from the centre of the tyre is paramount.

thanks for the advise on dual compounds however im fully aware of these tyres!

Rgds Lee.
outagas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 08:24 AM   #17162
RichardU
Let's Ride
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Marietta, GA
Oddometer: 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
It's designed that the 10mm bolt side is seated and the only "slot" is on the 8mm bolt side. Not every handlebar clamp is designed this way as some require a gap both sides but these don't. The 10mm bolt are what clamps the whole thing to the top yoke. So, you should tighten the 10mm bolts fully and then the 8mm. The 8mm bolts just clamps the handlebars.
Good catch.
RichardU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 09:11 AM   #17163
cug
--
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Sunny California
Oddometer: 4,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
My instinct is that you're doing #3 & 4 the wrong way round. It's designed that the 10mm bolt side is seated and the only "slot" is on the 8mm bolt side.
Think about it again:

1) Make the big bolt flush (not torqued).
2) Torque the small bolt (will have slot).
3) Torque the big bolt from flush to tight.

Slot is on the small bolt applying the pressure to the handlebar as it is supposed to be. The manual says "torque the big bolt first" but that has the downside that you can't rotate the Rox risers to the desired position anymore. You can completely follow the manual if the position of the Rox works for you where you can tighten the 8mm bolts through the hole in the Rox clamp.
cug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 09:13 AM   #17164
cug
--
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Sunny California
Oddometer: 4,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
Good catch.
See my explanation. It's correct if you don't want to be able to put the Rox risers in the desired position - which is impossible with the front bolts fully torqued.
cug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 12:54 PM   #17165
BlackBeast
Studly Adventurer
 
BlackBeast's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, CANADA
Oddometer: 926
Thanks for clearing that up. I'm doing my rox install this evening.
BlackBeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 01:43 PM   #17166
Snapper
Beastly Adventurer
 
Snapper's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Fairfield County, CT
Oddometer: 2,498
Given the recent tire talk, I'll throw in my experience with tires on my Roadie, now with ~22k miles and I ride mostly tight technical twisties.

Changed my stock Scorpions at 5k - front tires hit side wear bars and "V" profiled badly and made for scary handling. Another example of fronts wearing out first and I've always worn 1.5 rears to 1 front in the past.

Next were Anakee2s in the stock size - fronts were reaching side wear bars in 2.5k! while the rears were absolutely fine. Michelin partially warranteed this front and I put on a 110/80-19 RADIAL Anakee2 instead.

Ran two sets of the Anakee2 RADIALs 110/80-19 and 150/70-17. Rears good for about 6-7k and fronts maybe 10k (back to 1.5 : 1 ratio) which is about as good as I'll ever get. I like to swap both tires at the same time for obvious reasons.

Love this radial front - haven't had a tire retain such a round profile to the very end like this. I generally don't comment on "stickiness" as I'm a pure street rider and rarely slide on clean asphalt (wet or dry) - so in that regard, all premium tires seem to "stick" fine for me. The most important thing for me are how long the tires last, and how badly they profile toward the end - "V" in front, flat spot in rear.

I have 110/80 and 150/70 Anakee3 radials on now (a couple hundred miles but will reserve comment to the end of life). I'm hoping for longer life while maintaining round profile to the end.

Don't know if my front "V" profile/excessive tire wear issues are due to bias-ply vs radial (Michelin only seems start radials at 110/80 size, not sure about the Scorpions), or as mention above, something to do with the narrower tires (contact patch should be the same size though - I understand determined by weight and air pressure alone).
__________________
Lateral G Junkie
Fear Deer
Snapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 02:44 PM   #17167
swimmer
armchair asshole
 
swimmer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: tucson
Oddometer: 4,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snapper View Post
Given the recent tire talk,.
I'm running the Anakee2 right now and the noise alone is enough for me not to buy them again. I like the rear tire feel but not the front. I got around 12k miles from the OEM tires (front could have gone another couple thousand miles) which is average for me. I expect the rear Anakee2 to at least last that long but can't see the front making it that far. The Anakee3 looks nicer. Lots of good tires to choose from for this bike.
swimmer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 10:44 PM   #17168
marloweluke
The Flying Dutchman
 
marloweluke's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: East Kootenay
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I'm running the Anakee2 right now and the noise alone is enough for me not to buy them again. I like the rear tire feel but not the front. I got around 12k miles from the OEM tires (front could have gone another couple thousand miles) which is average for me. I expect the rear Anakee2 to at least last that long but can't see the front making it that far. The Anakee3 looks nicer. Lots of good tires to choose from for this bike.
That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.
__________________
WITHOUT RISK........THERE IS NO ADVENTURE
marloweluke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 09:05 AM   #17169
Yossarian™
Deputy Cultural Attaché
 
Yossarian™'s Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: the 'Ha
Oddometer: 9,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by marloweluke View Post
That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.
Not too many frost heaves and chuckholes in Tucson, I suspect.
__________________
Successfully surviving motorcycling since 1976.
Yossarian™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 09:15 AM   #17170
swimmer
armchair asshole
 
swimmer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: tucson
Oddometer: 4,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by marloweluke View Post
That's amazing. I've haven't really gotten more then 8400 km out of a rear, that's just over 5k miles. You must have really smooth tarmac where you live, I suspect mine get chewed up by rough winter worn asphalt.
Just checked my maintenance log and I removed the OEM Scorps at 13,333 miles. I am also averaging over 54mpg over the life of the bike so I am there is some correlation between the two. It's not that I am a slow rider. I have some track experience and have been to a track school, I guess I just don't find myself doing a lot of fast accelerations which is where rear tire wear (and poor mpg) are mostly going to come from.
swimmer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 09:17 AM   #17171
swimmer
armchair asshole
 
swimmer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: tucson
Oddometer: 4,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
Not too many frost heaves and chuckholes in Tucson, I suspect.
The heat and lack of city budget must be enough to do the trick then because most of the roads here are in bad condition.
swimmer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 06:40 PM   #17172
Snapper
Beastly Adventurer
 
Snapper's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Fairfield County, CT
Oddometer: 2,498
Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
.... I guess I just don't find myself doing a lot of fast accelerations which is where rear tire wear (and poor mpg) are mostly going to come from.
I get no enjoyment out of acceleration in straight lines - just tickets. My experience is that riding lots of twisties at spirited paces kill tires, and straight line/slab riding is the easiest on tires. Twisties wear out the center of rear tires through engine braking setting up entry speed for corners and coming down mountains and simply the constant variations in speed, road grade and lean angles - we rarely use brakes. My riding groups occasionally head down to NC and WV for some great mountain riding, and with about twice as many corners as the Northeast, we burn tires in half the time, or about 3k for PR3s on liter bikes. I've worn out a few sets of rear tires on the sides before the centers as well.
__________________
Lateral G Junkie
Fear Deer
Snapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:39 AM   #17173
Bueller
Cashin?
 
Bueller's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Hide Away Hills, Ohio
Oddometer: 17,194
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanjoosten View Post
That is a really nice item!

Another option is Harbor Freight. They sell a complete set of metric hex sockets for $12.99. I just removed the 17mm from the socket and keep 17mm wrench in my bag. The rest come in handy when working on the bike...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...7880-html.html

Untitled
I know this is late to the party, haven't read this thread for a while. This is what I use:



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Very compact, fits a standard 3/8 drive, and because it is shouldered it fits nicely and solid against the head of the axle nut. It also fits the fill and drain plugs on many VW/Audi transmissions, which is the reason I have one.
__________________
"Bueller, you're an island of sense in a sea of bullshit" - swimmer

"bueller, you ARE an island of reason in a sea of bullshit" - quasigentrified
Bueller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 09:00 AM   #17174
Midpack
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Midpack's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 121
Tire wear

I never had a bike wear out the front tire before the rear. The original front Trail/Battle Wing on the 800XC was gone at 7300 miles with a good 2000 left on the rear. I went with the stock sized Heindenau K60s for a more 50/50 tire. Have been very pleased with 7000 miles on the rear with channels worn creating a solid center strip. The front just starting to show minor brake cupping. I believe I'll get another 3 - 5 thousand out of the rear. These tires handle as well leaned over as the Wings. Last weekend did a nice two wheel drift keeping up with sport tourers on Hwy 191 on the eastern boarder of Arizona. For a 21" front this Triumph can handle!
Midpack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 09:55 AM   #17175
blacktiger
Tigers R great.
 
blacktiger's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
Oddometer: 3,606
Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Think about it again:

1) Make the big bolt flush (not torqued).
2) Torque the small bolt (will have slot).
3) Torque the big bolt from flush to tight.

Slot is on the small bolt applying the pressure to the handlebar as it is supposed to be. The manual says "torque the big bolt first" but that has the downside that you can't rotate the Rox risers to the desired position anymore. You can completely follow the manual if the position of the Rox works for you where you can tighten the 8mm bolts through the hole in the Rox clamp.
As I'm not interested in ROX risers I'll bolt mine on the correct way. Your method might well allow you to move the risers but it still leaves it torqued incorrectly as by torquing the small bolt first, when you torque the big bolt second, the small bolt will end up over tensioned and you could well snap the clamp (I've seen it happen). And, as I said before, it could be that all the mating surfaces that the 10mm bolt should seat, won't be.
Still it's your bike, do what you want.
__________________
2002 black Tiger955i, 72000 miles and counting.
2012 black Tiger800XC, 40000 miles and counting.
blacktiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014