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Old 03-28-2012, 01:19 PM   #11896
dwoodward
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Originally Posted by internalcombust View Post
I also riveted some bungees under my rear seat to hold a first aid kit.



I need to get busy and get a fuse panel installed and get some farkling done.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:24 PM   #11897
dwoodward
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ECU questions

1) How often does the ECU sample ambient air pressure (altitude)? I know some bikes only sample at startup, which has been problematic for riding up and down large elevation changes at a single go. (Think Colorado).

2) Which wheel drives the speedometer sensor? It'd be easiest on Triumph if it were the rear, since XCs and Roadies have the same rear tire, but on the DRZ400 Suzuki perversely does it off the front, so S and SM machines read differently if you swap to a different wheel.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:47 PM   #11898
RichardU
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Originally Posted by internalcombust View Post
I used electrical eyelets for the rings
Very innovative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post
I need to get busy and get a fuse panel installed and get some farkling done.
Fuse panels take up a lot of room. You can accomplish the same thing and save a lot of space by using inline fuses which easily tuck into nooks and crannies.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:12 PM   #11899
dwoodward
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Fuse panels take up a lot of room. You can accomplish the same thing and save a lot of space by using inline fuses which easily tuck into nooks and crannies.
There are lots of ways to do things. On the sport bikes, I tend to just use fuses, although that's more splices, more failure points, more ring terminals on the battery or a barrier strip nearby. On the bikes I will ride longer distances on, I prefer to use a fuse block, half switched, half constant. THe FJR has both- a barrier strip for all the lights (HID headlights + driving lights) and a charging plug; and a fuse block for everything else (heated grips, heated clothing socket, GPS circuit, intercom / radios, tankbag power)
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:35 PM   #11900
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... more splices, more failure points, more ring terminals on the battery or a barrier strip nearby.
You should try Posi-locks which eliminate all of these problems. I have used them on dirt bikes, exposed to the elements and ridden hard for over 30,000 miles, and have never had a failure of any kind. I consider them superior to solder, (and I do know how to solder).
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:40 PM   #11901
KildareMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post
1) How often does the ECU sample ambient air pressure (altitude)? I know some bikes only sample at startup, which has been problematic for riding up and down large elevation changes at a single go. (Think Colorado).

2) Which wheel drives the speedometer sensor? It'd be easiest on Triumph if it were the rear, since XCs and Roadies have the same rear tire, but on the DRZ400 Suzuki perversely does it off the front, so S and SM machines read differently if you swap to a different wheel.
Sampling happening constantly.

Depends on whether you have abs or not. No abs - speed sensor above countersprocket housing. Abs bikes use the abs ring (front I think)
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:42 PM   #11902
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You should try Posi-locks which eliminate all of these problems. I have used them on dirt bikes, exposed to the elements and ridden hard for over 30,000 miles, and have never had a failure of any kind. I consider them superior to solder, (and I do know how to solder).
A correctly soldered joint is the best mechanical connection there is. Takes more work but better.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:50 PM   #11903
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Fuse panels take up a lot of room.
Not necessarily. Eastern Beaver's 3-circuit solution takes up a tiny amount of space, fitting very easily next to the battery/fuses. And, for the vast majority of Tiger 800 owners - I'm willing to bet three additional circuits is more than enough.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:01 PM   #11904
dwoodward
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Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
You should try Posi-locks which eliminate all of these problems. I have used them on dirt bikes, exposed to the elements and ridden hard for over 30,000 miles, and have never had a failure of any kind. I consider them superior to solder, (and I do know how to solder).
A splice is a splice is a splice is a... And personally, I hate Posi-anything. The shit just looks flakey to me, despite people having good luck with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KildareMan View Post
A correctly soldered joint is the best mechanical connection there is. Takes more work but better.
Solder joints are stiff and subject to fatigue failure in high vibration environments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by syspig View Post
Not necessarily. Eastern Beaver's 3-circuit solution takes up a tiny amount of space, fitting very easily next to the battery/fuses. And, for the vast majority of Tiger 800 owners - I'm willing to bet three additional circuits is more than enough.
Rider's heated gear, GPS, intercom/radios, aux lights, horns. Five. Maybe I might be able to reduce that by one or two, depending on how I might tap the auxillary and aux light circuits instead. Normally I'd do my own heated grips, but the previous owner already did the factory kit.

Besides, the installation is half the fun.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:03 PM   #11905
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Originally Posted by syspig View Post
Eastern Beaver's 3-circuit solution takes up a tiny amount of space, fitting very easily next to the battery/fuses. I'm willing to bet three additional circuits is more than enough.
Eastern Beaver stuff is tops
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:36 PM   #11906
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Dont trust posi-locks ? Hmmm. Well tens of thousands of miles on 7 different motorcycles - never ever had one fail. If you install them right - really not much to go wrong.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:25 PM   #11907
internalcombust
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Very innovative.

.
Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:34 PM   #11908
dwoodward
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Dont trust posi-locks ? Hmmm. Well tens of thousands of miles on 7 different motorcycles - never ever had one fail. If you install them right - really not much to go wrong.
The concept just makes me cringe. If I solder or crimp something, I can see how good the connection is. Posi-Taps scare me worse.

I have wire strippers, solder, good quality connectors, good crimpers, shrink tubing, heat guns, torches, and soldering irons, and I'm not afraid to use any of it.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:41 PM   #11909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KildareMan View Post
A correctly soldered joint is the best mechanical connection there is. Takes more work but better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post
I hate Posi-anything. The shit just looks flakey to me, despite people having good luck with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post
The concept just makes me cringe. If I solder or crimp something, I can see how good the connection is. Posi-Taps scare me worse.
That's okay, people have a long history of being scared of stuff: electronic ignition, disk brakes, fuel injection, ABS brakes, telephones, indoor plumbing, flying contraptions, ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post
I have wire strippers, solder, good quality connectors, good crimpers, shrink tubing, heat guns, torches, and soldering irons, and I'm not afraid to use any of it.
I have all that stuff too, and been using it since the 60s. But I have an open mind and have taken the time to discover a superior solution. And how much of that stuff will you have with you on the side of the road when you need to repair something? You can rewire Posi-locks with nothing but your bare hands (and teeth if you need to strip a wire.)

Seriously, if you ever get a chance, just connect two wires with a Posi-lock and see if you can pull them apart. You might be surprised.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #11910
Mercury264
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Dont trust posi-locks ? Hmmm. Well tens of thousands of miles on 7 different motorcycles - never ever had one fail. If you install them right - really not much to go wrong.
+1 I have them on all my bikes including my Husky and I have not had a single one fail. Not one. They work as advertised.

As for soldered joints, I am pretty sure I read somewhere on ADV that an aircraft mech said that soldered joints were a no-no in the aircraft world due to stress fractures of the joint.
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