Triumph Tiger 800

[Mercury264]

Originally Posted by Rob Dirt

I'm going to air the full bores down for now. The rear has stepped out a few times. I thought it was due to the muffler & arrow map. I've been using stock 36/42. The tires work way better then they should in dirt (aired down). Definately be careful on the Full Bore in the rain.
Next time I'm riding in the rain, I'll see what's up with these tires. Some emergency stops are forthcoming to test my ABS too.
Where I landed. I found my rubber peg cover.

Bummer Rob, glad you came out of it OK.

[xylent]

Originally Posted by dirtconnector

My left front was found broken on a ride just Friday. I was thinking maybe the factory or dealer torqued it too tight? The dealer is going to cover it. Mine is 2012 I've had for little over one week. I super glued mine till the dealer gets the new part in.
Could be a heat issue, maybe. It's been hot here in WNC, but I tend to think it's a bad batch of plastic/rubber that the indicator is made of.

Just finished my 8100-mile PA to AK ride. I still have one good indicator, and all my duct tape mods have held up for the last 3 weeks. I picked the bike up right in the middle of the nasty east coast heat wave, and I think the direct sun exposure made a bad plastic problem worse. Both front indicators cracked around the mounting ear...hard to believe they could be overtorqued enough to break with that brass spacer installed on the bolt. Just a weird occurrence all around. Good to hear your dealer is taking care of you. I haven't bothered to call mine yet...might just find an LED unit. I have handguard blinkers on my DRZ and I really like them, so I may go that route with improved guards.

Other than that, the bike performed beautifully. Rear battlewing is smoked. Off to mcsuperstore to shop tires..

[KildareMan]

@Bueller
Reduce the heat, not thermostatically controlled, from the cat which is considerable. There is no increase in noise I can detect or strange resonances. Most who have done it report a modest increase in torque. Will let you all know.

Well after 1st ride post re-assembly. The exhaust sounds ever so slightly deeper. Obviously the cat rattle is now gone & bike feels "different". Slightly more urgent would be how I can best describe it as. Oh and the right foot area is cooler to.
Costs:
My time
new header gaskets x3 = £10.15 - from UK
new header nuts x6 = £3.24 - from UK
Welding = €40

[blacktiger]

Originally Posted by KildareMan

Costs:
My time
new header gaskets x3 = £10.15 - from UK
new header nuts x6 = £3.24 - from UK
Welding = €40

Why did you need new header nuts? Can't imagine they're rusty already and shouldn't have been seized on the studs this new.

[KildareMan]

Originally Posted by blacktiger

Why did you need new header nuts? Can't imagine they're rusty already and shouldn't have been seized on the studs this new.

Several of mine were in shite order. 2 were hard to remove. Ended up cleaning all the stud threads with a die. Also the manual says to replace. To a great extent I suppose it depends on the environment that you are in as well. After 18 months in the Irish "Climate" new ones made sense.

[blacktiger]

Originally Posted by KildareMan

Several of mine were in shite order. 2 were hard to remove. Ended up cleaning all the stud threads with a die. Also the manual says to replace. To a great extent I suppose it depends on the environment that you are in as well. After 18 months in the Irish "Climate" new ones made sense.

Sounds like you needed some stainless nuts. Or, back in the old days I remember them being brass.

[KildareMan]

Originally Posted by blacktiger

Sounds like you needed some stainless nuts. Or, back in the old days I remember them being brass.

I think I'll put them on my regular replacement list, every year maybe. Minimal cost.

[markbvt]

Originally Posted by browneye

The FB's are a hundred bucks less for a set, and if I can get 4-6K miles out of them I'll be thrilled. Then again, if the rear is toast at 2K I'll be trying something else.

Then you might be pleased to know that I'm at just under 6000 miles on the Full Bore rear currently on my XC, and at the rate it's been wearing, I wouldn't be surprised if it's still good for another thousand miles or more. I'm VERY happy with this tire -- handles great on pavement, works much better off pavement than you'd think it would, and it lasts. (For comparison purposes, the Shinko 705 rear I had on before was spent at 4500 miles.)

I've got a Shinko 705 on the front, and it's coming up on 8000 miles; still looks great. Something tells me the FB M-41 front tire would easily be a 12k mile tire.

Originally Posted by Rob Dirt

Definately be careful on the Full Bore in the rain.

Interesting; I've ridden in plenty of rain with mine and haven't had any problems.

--mark

[Rob Dirt]

Originally Posted by markbvt

Interesting; I've ridden in plenty of rain with mine and haven't had any problems.

--mark

What pressure do you use in the rear? I may have pushed to hard with cold tires. I only traveled about 300 yards.

[Porky]

Originally Posted by KildareMan

@Bueller
Reduce the heat, not thermostatically controlled, from the cat which is considerable. There is no increase in noise I can detect or strange resonances. Most who have done it report a modest increase in torque. Will let you all know.

Well after 1st ride post re-assembly. The exhaust sounds ever so slightly deeper. Obviously the cat rattle is now gone & bike feels "different". Slightly more urgent would be how I can best describe it as. Oh and the right foot area is cooler to.
Costs:
My time
new header gaskets x3 = £10.15 - from UK
new header nuts x6 = £3.24 - from UK
Welding = €40

Were ECU adjustments required?

[Yossarian™]

Originally Posted by Porky

Were ECU adjustments required?

My guess is NO.

[KildareMan]

Originally Posted by Porky

Were ECU adjustments required?

None.

[cyclingtom]

For those XC riders that aren't particularly fond of tubed tires this is a little project that doesn't require too much effort and results in a tire that can (usually) be easily plugged roadside. There's a fair amount of info on spoke sealing for those curious types.

Usual disclaimer for project like this: Preform at your own risk.

Rear has a "safety lip" on the wheel. Let me tell ya, this would be a real bitch to break the bead trail-side with a sidestand.



Scuff the surface up and clean with non-alcohol solvent



Cover the spokes in case a future adjustment is needed and insert proper tubeless valve stem.



Cover evenly with, in this case, 3M 5200 sealant.




Allow product to cure. They have a regular and a Fast Cure 5200. If I do this again it'll be with the Fast Cure.
Install tire, balance, submerge in tub to check for tiny leaks, and ride.





Several rides and all is well.
If the front wheel had "safety lips" I would be sealing that one too, but most of my punctures have been on the rear so hopefully the front won't need an in the field fix....

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by cyclingtom

For those XC riders that aren't particularly fond of tubed tires this is a little project that doesn't require too much effort and results in a tire that can (usually) be easily plugged roadside. There's a fair amount of info on spoke sealing for those curious types.

Usual disclaimer for project like this: Preform at your own risk.

Rear has a "safety lip" on the wheel. Let me tell ya, this would be a real bitch to break the bead trail-side with a sidestand.



Scuff the surface up and clean with non-alcohol solvent



Cover the spokes in case a future adjustment is needed and insert proper tubeless valve stem.



Cover evenly with, in this case, 3M 5200 sealant.




Allow product to cure. They have a regular and a Fast Cure 5200. If I do this again it'll be with the Fast Cure.
Install tire, balance, submerge in tub to check for tiny leaks, and ride.





Several rides and all is well.
If the front wheel had "safety lips" I would be sealing that one too, but most of my punctures have been on the rear so hopefully the front won't need an in the field fix....

Since you have partially filled the drop center section of the wheel, how much harder does this make it to change a tire?

[browneye]

Freaking brilliant.

I got to try out the bead breaking with the side stand yesterday and it's a piece of cake. Works great. Still, so much nicer to plug one on the road. As someone mentioned, sure as shit it's dark, cold, and raining when it goes.

Front is super easy to remove and dismount one tire bead - just like the regular dirtbikes. The rear? Not so much!